I finally have most of the bits and pieces together and the machining done on the B20 I got from Dale. The cam and lifters were shot so on the block I had the cam bearings replaced with a new "D" cam waiting to go in with new IPD lifters. (will reuse the IPD rods) The bores were good, just a hone (all tapers just around between 1/2 and 11/2 thou.) Crank reground .010/.010 (could have gotten away without probably, but while its out!!!). Just reinstalled crank with new bearings today and plastigage shows clearances between .0015 and .0017. Am trying to decide whether or not to replace pistons (Olof wants $160 ea. I have a line on some direct from Mahle for $65. US) The existing ones after decarbonizing have some scratches on the skirts (fingernail doesn't hang up on them) and pitting in the aluminum on top, but am worried I may have damaged the ring lands as I only learned after I used a small brass brush to clean the carbon and concrete varnish out that this was a "nay nay". I'll have a my neighbour provide an opinion on them. The head got hardened seats, new valve guides and seals and one new valve (plus valve job). The ports were "smoothed" not really ported as everything lined up well with the gasket and there wasn't much crap in them. The machinist thought it " a high quality casting" Both the head and the block were flat no machining required. The flywheel has been resurfaced and I have a new clutch plate. Next up install pistons once I decide new or used. I'll try for some photo's when I can track down the camera.
Bill

What are the goals for the engine again...sounds like your half way to doing the full monty and for my money I would deck the block and get the squish up a little. The head doesn't need to be gasket matched - that is totally the wrong idea, so it's a good thing you didn't make the exhaust ports any larger. The intakes have sealing rings - so they match by definition. In my posts on these heads you'll find the information on where to make them flow. Even if your not building for performance, I'd do the valve bowl area (just past the valve seat and around the valve guide. No sense in putting a ton of cash into a rebuild that leaves 20 - 25 hp on the floor for free.

With the exception of the cam this is a stock rebuild (if you don't count the hardened seats and guides). The objective to create a reliable DD for transport to the Golf Club and around town. I don't have the equipment or knowhow for a "port" job. Everything is back from the Machinist so that route is closed for now. I guess I'll have to do without the free ponies. Thanks for the thoughts.
Bill

There is virtue in acceptance (as well as ambition). There will always be something 'better' that could be done, especially to an old car that (likely) has a manual choke, standard brakes and steering, crappy suspension (122, anyways) and for that-matter carburation instead of fuel-injection. I find I'm just as happy driving my car slowly (savouring every shift) and nobody-else on the road seems to mind either! Such are the benefits of a class-ic car.

Maybe some day I'll get-around to fuel-injection, but the rest of the bolts are (hopefully) going to stay where they are.

I'll bump this up in search of more help. I decided to get new pistons ($65 US ea. plus shipping from Mahle germany). Olof quoted me $160 plus shipping so I feel like I got a bargain. The pistons came with rings installed. Can I assume that they have the right gaps, or do I have to take a ring off, put in the cylinder and check the gap? The cylinders are stock and were honed. The pistons are standard. Thanks in advance for your help guys.
Bill

You should always measure your ring gap - butting the rings together is about the worst thing that can happen. It'll pop the top of the piston right off, or the rod will pull right apart. From my experience with Mahle pistons & rings, they'll be fine, but having them too tight is the last thing you want!

So what is the prudent course of action here? Do I take the rings off of the pistons and measure the gaps, then reinstall the rings on the pistons? Seems like a recipe for broken rings. Do I pull one and check to see if it is in tolerance (gap .40 - .55mm) and if it is, trust that all the rest are O.K. Can I trust that Mahle installed rings with gaps set to the 88.91mm bore within gap tolerance and take comfort that the hone job would make things looser rather than tighter. Any consensus? Thanks
Bill

In my opinion, every piston is fitted to the bore. Taking the rings off of a new piston is done with care, but you shouldn't break anything. Get a ring installation tool as the same tool is used to remove the rings.

Then fit them down the bore and measure the gap there. The first picture in my B20 build thread (viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1464) shows me gaping the rings on my engine. You place the ring in the bore and then set it square with the piston. Then check the gap with your feeler gauge (see picture). Remember that the rings are set differently based on their intended purpose.

Then grind the rings (with a ring grinder) - you can do it with a file, but it is difficult to keep the gaps square. Anyway - just take your time and do it right. It may not make a difference (they may be all OK), but better to know than not know.

Craig

Thanks guys. Another new piece of equipment it is (ring expander - I prefer frugal to cheap). I have my fingers crossed that they are OK. Thanks again.
Bill

FWIW we didn't check the rings that came installed in my mahle B23ET pistons built several years back, and now shredding tires in dales 744.

I find it hard to believe I wouldn't have checked them. I bolted it together, didn't I? Maybe the thought was that the bores were already a couple hundred thousand KM old in that engine?

You did, but I'm pretty sure you didn't take the rings off to check, but then again, maybe you did. I would have been farting around with something else at the time anyway. Bores were on the loose side of spec.

I'm THAT good, people!

Hi Bill,

Be cautious when you pull the rings. They are fairly brittle and can break. The ring expander is the way to go and I've always found it easier to do rings (remove or install) when the piston is on the rod and the rod is in a vice (wood jawed or soft jawed of course). You can gap them with a file instead of the little grinder machine and it works fine. Get a fine file and hold it in your vice, then gently file the ring in one direction only. Do both sides equally and check for a perfect fit via a strong light. When done lightly break the edges where you've filed (do one at a time to check how the factory wants the edges finished).

It's actually fun to gap rings and do the precision work of engine building. I much perfer it to the crash and bang of regular car repair.

Craig