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 Post subject: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:02 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:14 pm
Posts: 1875
Location: Missing my garage in Sunnyside
looking at a head swap in the near future.

anyone know the difference between "OES Genuine (OEM)" and scan tech bolts, apart from the fact the scan tech ones are $3 compared to $5. It's only $20 difference for 10, but what's the diff?

Oh wait, worldpac only has (1) scantech in stock, nevermind.

Unless anyone has a spare set? Pretty sure they can't be used...

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 Post subject: Re: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:08 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:40 pm
Posts: 3492
Location: Calgary, Ab
I've got dozens of used, both in the TTY and TTT styles. You wouldn't want to re-use a TTY, I'm thinking, but the TTT are stronger anyhow and they can be re-used.


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 Post subject: Re: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:20 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:14 pm
Posts: 1875
Location: Missing my garage in Sunnyside
Oh yeah, I think I might have a set of those socket head bolts, those are the non-yeild ones right? But you have to use them with their special spacers...hopefully i have 10 of those...

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Hi, I drive a fictional star wars character with rear wheel drive. His name is Darth Wagon, he has a shiny helmet.
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 Post subject: Re: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:50 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!

Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:03 pm
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I'm pretty sure I have a good supply of both...

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 Post subject: Re: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 6:04 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:14 pm
Posts: 1875
Location: Missing my garage in Sunnyside
Car just overheated on memorial. sweet.

pulled onto the shoulder, popped the hood, reservoir is right full, rad leaking, upper rad hose empty and cold. sweet.

Squeezed the hose, eventually started feeling some warmth, restarted car, normal temp indicated.

So, thermostat I suppose, that's what i'll be switching when i warm up, now that i'm home.

But i never had heat in the car, vents blew cold until i got restarted, and even then it took a while. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the thermostat should have nothing to do with the cabin heat, correct? Except if it is stuck open and the coolant doesn't get a chance to fully heat.

WTF is going on with this car????

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 Post subject: Re: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 8:39 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 4:32 pm
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Location: Didn't learn, now renovating bathroom #2, and you think cars are expensive!!!
Probably just an air lock in the system, a very common event when a system is drained and refilled and not bled before the cap is installed

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 Post subject: Re: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 1:33 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2007 7:26 pm
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Location: E-Town
++1 To volvord, had that happen quite a few times, especially in the turbo chrysler sstuff where the resivoir was on level with the head.


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 Post subject: Re: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 7:08 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:40 pm
Posts: 3492
Location: Calgary, Ab
I have never seen vapour lock in 200 or 700 series cars. Pour coolant in, air comes out. At worst, the car has to start and run just once. There don't seem to be any traps in the system. Besides, Darth has been full of coolant for how long? In the same vein, I doubt you could blame coolant freeze up because unless you've added too much of something recently AND this happened after a very cold start, it's survived temps much colder than this already.

I'm wondering about your water pump. If it's not pumping, coolant doesn't get circulated. Thermostat doesn't get hot without coolant flow, nor does coolant get pushed through the core. Once the Tstat opens, thermosyphon takes over. Your pump is leaking, so maybe the dripping coolant is making the belt slip, or maybe the impellar is slipping on the shaft. I've seen that happen. With only one belt driving the pump in a 7/9 series, looseness and lube can combine for easy slippage. Or maybe your crank pulley has failed, outer ring slipping on the hub. It's presumably charging and steering okay, though.


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 Post subject: Re: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 8:58 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:14 pm
Posts: 1875
Location: Missing my garage in Sunnyside
Yes, charging and steering ok, but I do wonder about the pump.

I thought air lock too, but I've tried to burp the system on several occasions (pretty much every time i have to top off the coolant) but obviously that didn't help.

I thought I changed the tstat last year, but it looked pretty old. It was a motorad brand (crappy tire?) and didn't have the breather hole that helps with air bubbles. New tstat and it seems to be ok, as of last night, but still having problems getting hot water to the heater core consistently. I've ordered a new heater valve, we'll see if that helps (closes flow to the core when AC is on, could be sticking).

I just hope I didn't eff up my rad or anything else. Oh, and when i rev the motor, the coolant sort of sucks down in the reservoir, so i assume that means i'm pumping, though maybe not efficiently. Guess i'll add a new pump to the list when i swap heads, fark.

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 Post subject: Re: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:27 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:14 pm
Posts: 1875
Location: Missing my garage in Sunnyside
fer five six....

replaced the heater valve, the old one is pretty heavy duty and looks ok...and no change, of course.

as the car is sitting there warming up, the coolant level creeps up to overflow, even though it's barely warm to the touch. Seems to settle down once the thermostat opens.

heat through the core (and thru the vents) is inconsistent. I can't get any hot air at idle until the car is fully warmed up, and even then only after I blip the throttle a bit. It will even stop heating at lights.

I'm loosing a litre or two of coolant on my short drive to work and back. If I run the 150kpa cap, it holds the pressure, then after I'm parked a few hours the car barely starts and bucks like the cyls are contaminated with coolant (little or no smoke out the exhaust though).

is this the sign of a bad water pump? all these symptoms due to cyl pressure in the cooling system? I can't wait to tear this thing apart but it's driving me nuts while I'm waiting for parts and weather...

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 Post subject: Re: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:08 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:19 pm
Posts: 3131
Location: Lethbridge, AB
Sorry Athal - I'm getting to that head as fast as I can. In the mean time, it does sound like you may be sharing some compression.

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 Post subject: Re: head bolt quality
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 8:36 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:14 pm
Posts: 1875
Location: Missing my garage in Sunnyside
No need to apologize Craig, I'm certainly not waiting on you. It's really not convenient for me to take the car off the road for any length of time right now anyway, stupid snow. I'm hoping it will hold out a few more weeks until I can use my bike, and Jade will be away for work in April so I can take my time.

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