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 Post subject: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 9:45 pm 
Strapping on extra booster rockets
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Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:46 pm
Posts: 328
Location: Edmonton, AB
A few of you guys might have read I was looking for a cheap 200 under $500, which wouldn't need much for an inspection so I could use as a second vehicle. I ended up spotting this one on Kijiji and went for a look. I'm assuming it's still running on the original B23E engine (bhp/mpg anyone?) at 325k KMs. It's got the 4-speed stick with overdrive which I'm really pleased about and a decent interior (GT interior?).

Body seems alright, besides the fact somebody has plastered the bottom of the car right around (including bumpers) with that stone chipping / bead paint stuff. Upon further investigation I think it was originally done to prevent rust rather than hide it as it seems reasonably solid. Needs a windscreen, a few electricals sorted and no doubt some other stuff for inspection but I'm thinking of putting it through to see what she fails on anyway, then fixing whatever calls. [-o<

It drives nice, a little lumpy at idle, there's a bit more power than I was expecting. It actually reminds me of driving my old 480! I just want to get it insured and inspected now so I can start driving it properly to see what's what.

Image Image Image

My girlfriend has made her stand and claimed she's never ever going to go anywhere in it with me. :mrgreen:

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Make: Volvo ¦ Model: 240 ¦ Year: 1991 ¦ Color: Met. Blue ¦ Engine: B230F Image


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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 10:49 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!

Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:03 pm
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Location: T2C
Same car as Craig's (was). '81 will be B23E with 405 head and K cam. Good for 135hp, I believe but it makes it at a lofty 5500 rpm or something silly like that. I does like to rev though. Funny as Craigs car was silver once and had GT seats in it when I sold it to him. K-jet can be fun if it's not sorted properly but other than that it's a pretty bullet-proof car...

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'67 123GT
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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:22 pm 
Strapping on extra booster rockets
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Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:46 pm
Posts: 328
Location: Edmonton, AB
Does Craig like skiing by any chance? There's a sweet ski-rack in the boot (which I'm going to fit if it's still in good condition - always liked the look of them in the original accessories brochures) and the guy I bought it from said the previous owner used it for driving to the mountains - it was on Kijiji only a few months back as I remember seeing the ad!

Your right about the revs, she can certainly stretch her legs. I can't wait to get it on the highway. :)

I don't know much about the K-jet system, but I'll have to start reading into it. I'm not to bothered about how the body looks but would like to have it running nice.

There's a several-part rattle/clunk from below the handbrake area (gearbox?) when the throttle is pressed to the floor on take-off in 1st and I think sometimes in 2nd. Ever heard of anything like this?

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Make: Volvo ¦ Model: 240 ¦ Year: 1991 ¦ Color: Met. Blue ¦ Engine: B230F Image


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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 7:06 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Good catch darren, so long as you can keep the cancer under control it should be pretty reliable. If you have it well tuned and baby it, you can get ~30mpg on the highway.
Noise from that area is likely the transmission hitting the tunnel, or the exhaust banging around. check the exhaust/hangers and engine/tranny mounts.

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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 7:17 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!

Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:03 pm
Posts: 2859
Location: T2C
DarrenK wrote:

There's a several-part rattle/clunk from below the handbrake area (gearbox?) when the throttle is pressed to the floor on take-off in 1st and I think sometimes in 2nd. Ever heard of anything like this?


Sounds a lot like a center support bushing needs replacing. The rubber gets fatigued and allows the driveshaft to rattle around...

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'67 123GT
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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 8:16 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:14 pm
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Location: Missing my garage in Sunnyside
I thought about that too Dale, though usually that's more of a "bang bang bang" when pulling away from a light. The "several part rattle/clunk" is a bit open for interpretation. :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 11:11 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:19 pm
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Location: Lethbridge, AB
I do like my 242 GLT - although the disintegrating engine wiring harness has to get replaced. Watch out for this. I had my temp gauge spike last week and almost caused panic (I'm pretty anal about these things). I spent 2 hours last night changing one temp sender wire!

I've got a clunk off the line and when cornering - it's the rear bushings. Dale's right, watch the K-jet stuff and stage 0 the car. I had lack-luster power until I discovered that the top of the K-jet boot had a broken clamp. Change clamp - goes pretty good now.

30 MPG is pretty much normal (around 9.8L/100Km) around town is worse. The idle is suppose to be lumpy...although I did have terrible old plug wires on it for a while (now replaced of course) and that helped. I've also found that replacing the vac lines is needed as they are all crusty and hard - part of the getting it back to stage 0 process. Idle is still lumpy, but not silly. The K-Jet related stuff is easy to find, but things like the S hose from the idle control valve to the intake can be "refreshed" with a soaking of carb cleaner. It seems to revive the rubber and seal up the leaks.

Clean the engine, there are nooks and cranies everywhere an I still get covered in grime working on this car - major pet peeve of mine. It will take several sessions of engine cleaner and power washing, but a clean engine is a lovely thing.

Craig

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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 1:16 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:14 pm
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Location: Missing my garage in Sunnyside
Oh you old schooler! I used to get 30US MPG, about 8.5L/100km in my old 245 wagon, level cruise at 90-100kph. Make sure the timing is set right (only 5degrees BTDC on the k-cam cars) and everything is in good tune, and you're using the minimum octane required, which should be ~89 if your chambers aren't too carboned up. Give it the seafoam treatment.

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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 11:13 pm 
Strapping on extra booster rockets
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Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:46 pm
Posts: 328
Location: Edmonton, AB
Thanks for the replies, guys! :) Insured it today, so I have 30 days to get an inspection done, then it’s time to play!

Image Image Image

I gave it a wash and it gave me a much better idea of the body! I managed to poke a few small holes here and there, but for the main thing, it all seems to be solid. Here's a few pictures of the body anyway;

Image Image Image Image
Image Image Image Image

Also, there are a few holes along that thin section of valance between the rear lights and bumper.

I think you guys are right with the transmission mount(s) – I went down a gravel road this evening and you can feel the vibration from below that area. And yeah, I guess it is a bang, bang, bang!! :mrgreen:

Where can I get some more information on the K-jet system then? And what do you guys mean by ‘stage 0’? Stock/factory/as-good-as-new?

I’m still exploring the 242 but so far a couple of other non-cosmetics issues I’ve come across is a continuous ‘squeal/squeak’ from what sounds to be the rear axle when left to idle after driving, although I’m not sure if this could be coming from a bad section in the exhaust, as I noticed it’s a little farty. Oh, and it keeps randomly popping out of overdrive – I wouldn’t mind as much if my whole work commute wasn’t highway!

Other than that, I’m going to start driving it to work, see what else I can pick at. I’ve got some cosmetics and electrical niggles to toy with too. I think I’ll just put it in for an inspection shortly, find out what it needs then it’ll give me the month to sort out – plus if it fails on everything then I’ll know to cut my loses! :lol:

I went to pick-and-pull today, boy am I going to have fun in there!

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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 11:26 pm 
I can fix the world
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Location: Calgary
k-jet.org

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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 5:21 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:40 pm
Posts: 3492
Location: Calgary, Ab
Copied and pasted from another thread:

Ugly Duck wrote:
100 words or less? Unpossible, but here's the basics:

Fuel from the tank is delivered by an in-tank pump to the main pump, which pressurizes the fuel accumulator and the rest of the system. The accumulator (the little thing sitting next to the main pump) stores a volume of fuel under pressure and this is kept in reserve for all sorts of things. Between the main pump and the accumulator is a check valve, to keep pressure in the system which reduces vapour lock on hot starts.

Out of the fuel filter (on the firewall), the fuel line goes to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel distributor. This valve regulates the fuel pressure to 75-80 psi (the pump is capable of over 150 psi), and then this fuel is split to several circuits.

The first circuit is the injector circuit: the fuel goes to the side of the metering barrel valve, which is lifted by the airflow plate and allows a measured amount of fuel past the valve based on how much the airflow plate is lifted. The fuel passes into four separate circuits, where within each circuit the fuel squeezes between a jet and a thin stainless plate (more on this later), through the injector lines, and out the injectors. The injectors will not pass fuel below 20-30 psi, and above this they snap open and allow fuel to flow past an oscillator which breaks up the fuel into really small droplets.

The second circuit is the fuel trim cirucuit (Lambda-Sond cars only): Below that thin stainless plate I talked about earlier, another quantity of fuel passes through a small jet and fills up the cavity beneath, which provides pressure up against that plate. In cars equipped with Lambda-Sond (oxygen sensors), fuel pressure is bled off from underneath this plate by what's referred to as a "frequency valve". In bleeding off more fuel from under the plate, pressure under the plate is reduced (because it can't flow through the inlet jet fast enough) and the plate is allowed to bend down, allowing more fuel to squeeze between it and the jets above the plate. I'm fairly sure the non-Lambda cars don't have this circuit at all, but the turbo car certainly does.

The third circuit is the control pressure circuit: Also called a warmup circuit, a flow of fuel is metered to the top of the metering barrel valve and on to the control pressure regulator, where it's regulated down to about 30-40 psi for warmup, and gradually increases to 50-60 psi for operating temperatures. This pressure works on top of the metering valve and restricts the amount of lift, varying the amount of fuel delivered for a given flow of air. The control pressure regulator has a bi-metallic spring and a heating coil, and is fed 12v to heat the coil and bend the spring, increasing control pressure for operating temperatures. '81-'83 Turbo cars have another method of controlling control pressure, through a complicated dual-dashpot vacuum arrangement, alongside the bi-metallic spring and heating coil deal. '84-'85 turbo cars use another method to achieve the same results.

There is also a warmup air regulator, which is another bi-metallic spring thingie, opening a small orifice that feeds more air to the engine when open. Another heating coil is included, fed constant 12v power, and it also picks up heat from the valve cover & engine.

The wiring is another Escher-esque deal: The starter solenoid has a contact that's specifically for bypassing the ballast resistor and feeding the coil a full 12v during cranking. Meanwhile, the starter solenoid trigger circuit is also providing power to the Thermal Time Switch, buried in the cooling passages in the head. The TTS passes current IF the TTS is not warmed up by either the coolant or the current passing through it. If the coolant temp is too high, the TTS will not pass power, and if current flows through the TTS for too long, the TTS opens circuit. The TTS is used ONLY for the cold start injector. Constant 12v power is delivered to the control pressure regulator and warmup air regulator whenever the ignition is turned on, so leaving the ignition turned on for any length of time before starting the car (cold) can give you some headaches.

The momentary grounding of the ignition coil drives the tach, and it also drives the fuel pump relay. The relay will operate on the alternating on/off current from the ignition coil, which closes not one but TWO circuits within the relay. These two circuits each operate one of the fuel pumps. Why not use one circuit for both pumps??? Anyway, there's also a pair of fuses for this deal, and for some reason if you jumper both fuses together, both fuel pumps will run.

Fuel Pump Relays are notorious for failing without warning - sometimes they'll come to life again when they cool down, but sometimes not. Keep a spare in the car. You can easily fix them by pulling them apart and reflowing the solder on the main power connection - you'll see which one it is by the burned, cracked appearance.

In-tank pumps can die without crippling the car, but frequently you'll start to run worse and worse below half tank when they do die. You can usually drive the car very gently, but any time fuel delivery requirements go up, the car will momentarily shut off.

Main pump check valves, fuel pressure regulators, control pressure regulators, or even the frequency valve can leak, causing the fuel pressure to slowly (or quickly) drain away. If the engine is hot at this point, the fuel in the injectors is boiled away and the long, skinny lines fill up with vapour. When you try and start the car again (between 15min and 2hrs of shutting down hot), it will crank and crank and crank, and maybe 1 or 2 cylinders will fire until enough fuel is flowed to the injectors to purge the lines. By the time the engine cools down, the fuel will condense back to liquid and the lines usually siphon enough fuel back into them so that the car starts perfectly when cold.

Injectors sometimes clog up, airflow plates get dirty, and the fast idle air regulator can clog up or the hoses to/from it will crack. Injector seals leak, not only between the injector and the phenolic spacer but between the spacer and the head as well. These are goofy sizes, and you really need Volvo parts here (or a tube of RTV).

The warmup air regulator can also get very dirty and sticky, and stop working. It can also freeze, and will usually freeze in the open position so that you'll get a very high idle for a while. Sometimes you've got to get the engine warm and shut it down to let heat soak into this valve without freezing cold air being pulled through it, before it'll loosen up and regulate air properly. If you have a working heat stove arrangement in the airbox, you don't usually have this problem.

Aside from that, it's about as bulletproof as any 30 year old fuel injection system can be!


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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 10:16 am 
First volvo in outer space
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The various tuning stages from tbrix.

http://www.turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0017

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66 122S (Garage Queen)
89 244 (Hers)
90 745Ti (Mine)
89 744 (SOLD/Bought back for other daughter)
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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:26 pm 
Strapping on extra booster rockets
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Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:46 pm
Posts: 328
Location: Edmonton, AB
Thanks guys. A bit technical for me but I guess I'll learn. :mrgreen:

I recently noticed the engine is quite rattly once started. Can't quite track this weird squeal from the rear axle area either. Will try and get you guys a video for your observation. Overdrive seems to be popping out when I hit minor/uneven bumps on the road, so I guess that might have something to do with that transmission mount, although when it pops out there's a short 'break' before it'll work again; sometimes you can hear it 'click' but it doesn't come on. #-o

Noticed tonight the brake lights aren't working, that'll have something to do with the warning buzzer buzzing it's little heart out everytime I hit the brake pedal! :lol:

The 2-door is just too cool for school. =P~

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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 3:04 pm 
Strapping on extra booster rockets
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Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:46 pm
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Location: Edmonton, AB
Well, the absolute unexpected happened today... passed inspection!! :o

Couldn't believe it when he pointed to the section about being roadworthly. Only cost a whopping $70 and the only thing I've done to the car is fix the brake lights! Here are the report sheets;

Image Image

I'm very happy it passed, means I have some spare money now, perhaps I can play with it, but I want to get the transmission mount(s) sorted first. :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: '81 242 GLT
PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 3:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 4:01 pm
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I thought you were getting an OOP or something, don't know why.

Insurance inspections are nothing, I know multiple certified mechanics who for 40 dollars will nearly pass everything that's got wheels and tires and drove there under its own power :lol:


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