hey everyone well i think ive finally got everything except for a couple things for my engine/megasquirt install which should commence on April 25. First im looking for a later distributer(with the hall sensor) from the late 80's - 90s 240s i believe, and im also looking for a walbro 255lph fuel pump. If anyone can help me out with either it would be much appreciated.

For the pump im thinking i might order this one if needed, does this look like the right one i should order?:

http://www.volvomotorsports.com/volvo1/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=83

You can also use a distributor from an '84 240 so basically you're looking for any EFI 4 cylinder from any 240 series from '84 and up. Sorry, I don't have one - I've got one in the white car that I'm using ATM. Athal just bought one from eBay for $50, IIRC.

And I bought my Walbro from these guys: http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/fpapps.html It's the GM Universal, and I got the 255 high pressure. It'll flow roughly 500 horsepower worth of fuel... It's not a drop-in, and I'm not sure that the VMS one is a drop in either, but it's also $40 cheaper and the install is straightforward enough.

awesome thanks for the info ill order that walbro tonight! just wondering about the wiring of the walbro, i assume all the stock wiring will work? like its not going to draw more current then the system can handle or should i just rewire the who set up?

other then the wiring i think the only modifications ill have to make are:

1)the mounting- i see most of the tbrickers just zip tie the pump to the sender unit( i would like something more permenant if u have any ideas?)

2)remove the main pump under the car and replace it with straight gasline.

Oh, wait a minute... If your main pump and intank pump are both in good shape, why are you buying a Walbro? The K-jet pumps work great with Megasquirt, and flow well enough for a set of 450cc/min injectors, or about 300 horsepower.

I got rid of my main pump and went with the Walbro because it's good for closer to 600 hp, and I needed the space for the driver's side muffler where the fuel pump used to be. I also needed to upgrade to -6 fuel line, which required a complete fuel system upgrade.

The body of the Walbro is a bit larger than the original pump, so I sliced the plastic mount on the Volvo pickup and squeezed the new pump in there. Then, I used a hose clamp to fasten it - it doesn't move at all, will never rust or fail when immersed in gasoline, and works great.

The stock wiring might be a bit light for the Walbro, but I haven't had any issues yet and I don't know if anyone's upgraded their wiring yet either. If I ever start to run out of fuel, if and when I turbocharge my V8, I'll upgrade the wiring first to get some more +V's to it.

yea im not to sure of the condition of my pumps because for a while i had a ridiculous fuel gauge that used to get stuck at 1/2-3/4 tank and wouldnt drop till the tank was just about empty(i believe the little slider thing was binding on the sender unit) so i have accidently ran it dry a couple times. I might order the pump as an upgrade i can do when i have some time later on in the project.

Pump's got nothing to do with the gauge sticking. If the car will suck the tank dry without bucking under any kind of throttle, the intank pump is fine, and if the car runs at all the main pump is working. I've seen lazy main pumps (Athal's old 242 Turbo) but I've got about 6 main pumps laying around if yours is no good.

How much fuel did you get into it when you ran it dry? 58-60 litres, or less? I've driven my 240s to the gas station and pumped 58 litres into them, and when I changed the tank in my first B21FT swap, I got a little over 60 in from dead empty. If you're getting less than that out of the tank, your intank pump (or the rubber hose 'tween the pump and pickup) might be dead.

Do the Haynes current check, if you can, and that'll tell you the general condition of the pumps.

And if you're still in doubt, we can throw a pressure gauge on the main pump and see what it'll push. If it's in good shape, it'll make 150-160 psi before it stalls. Athal's dying pump only made about 80 or so, and changing it with a JY piece fixed that car right up.

yea the gauge wasnt working just because that slider thing with the float(dont know what else to call it) was sticking, the pumps are probably ok for now but it would be nice if i ran larger injectors down the road to be on the safe side with a walbro. Its probably not needed at this point, but im interested in going with a larger turbo once i get the engine broken in and get a feel for this whole megasquirt setup.

Ask victor and I- if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

FOUR hours to shim his friggin cam yesterday, and we thought we totally fooked his engine with the racket it made when we finally got it running (t-belt kept skipping because I kept forgetting to tighten the tensioner after re-timing, then forgot to advance the dizzy so it' wouldn't start). Turned out to be the rear t-belt cover rubbing the cam gear, but vik was really regretting changing a perfectly good cam for a while there!

Your stock pumps should provide enough fuel to break your tranny if they are working properly. I'd just check/upgrade the wiring and leave them for now unless you know you have delivery issues. but that's just me.

yes it sucked...but i dont regret it now...havn't driven it yet, but the sound it makes is sweet

yay ricer!!!!

ciao

yea totally, ill leave the fuel system for now, at least until i drive the car for a while and feel the urge to change something . I think i will be pretty happy with the b21ft+i MS as it is, it will be such a change from that beater b21F.

k matt feel free to flame me here, but ive been doing more research, and since im just doing an MS(not nS) then do i even need a dizzy with a hall sensor ? can I just use the stock b21F wiring system for spark? I find there is so much damn information on MS that it gets confusing at times. I just went through my wiring diagrams this morning and it appears that for the MS(I believe i am running V2.2) there is no distributor in the wiring diagram. Its been a while since i looked at my MS stuff so i think im going to spend a good week or so after school ends doing research so i know exactly what im doing when i install it. Im sure i could wire it up, cuz the wiring diagram is fairly striaght forward but i want to make sure i know exactly how everything is working.


Thanks!

Jon (I R a MS newb)

BTW raz feel free to move this to discussion as i think it would fit better there.

I'm no hexpert either but if you're just running fuel with MS, you only need a tach signal. You need the other stuff when you start controlling spark...

yea i think thats right, now that ive read a bit more on that, i believe all you need is a signal from the negative terminal of the ignition coil. That would be a relief if i dont have to get a hall sensor setup, ive heard of so many people mixing up the wiring and either blowing the hall sensor or something inside the MS.

Using a sheilded wire for your tach signal feed would be a good plan. Ground the shield at the tach and again at the MS box. That should result in a nice crisp tach signal for the MS. Dirty tach signals can mess things up...