Anyone have a spare set of 122 brake rotors that have enough meat on them to use? Mine are below minimum thickness already!

I don't - but this is what motivated the brake swap. At the price of the replacement parts, it was cheaper to adapt brakes. There isn't an off the shelf stock style brake solution but maybe we should engineer one.

I know I'm needing front brakes, not even considering stock replacement at this point.
Hoping something comes along for brake options in the near future from the aftermarket world but not going to hold my breath.

If anyone comes up with something please share!

Mr borrie on T'Bricks sells the old Avalanche adapters. Not sure what he wants for them but that's the only option I'm aware of at the moment...

Good to know Dale, I've sent him a PM.

I should measure mine, they are fairly pitted but maybe they could be turned and decent.

http://www.nordic-car-parts.com/product ... azonp1800/

242 Euros looks to be about $330 Cdn. I was looking as well. This is what I found on the page as well, to summarize here...

Hats:
Wilwood HD Fixed Mount Brake Rotor Hats – 170-0208
Wilwood Rotor Bolt Kit Number – 230-0233D

Rotor:
Wilwood Ultralight Straight Vane Rotors (11.75” OD, 0.81” Thick) – 160-0471

Caliper:
Wilwood Forged Billet Superlight Caliper (1.375” Piston) – 120-11128

Pads:
Wilwood Polymatrix Q – 15Q-6829K

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=300803

Looks like he has started a new group buy? I'll see what he says when he responds to PM.

Might be 2 or 3 of us here interested from the looks of it?

As the guy that developed these - they won't fit under 15's at all. Maybe 16". I was thinking of a more generic and less race oriented solution.

I've got a set of adapters ordered through Borris now. I'm already on 17s so clearance shouldnt be a problem.

RSready what is the mininum spec on rotors? Maybe mine could be turned down and usable for you.

Not sure when I'm going to order the wilwood brakes.. from the looks of it that order will be 700USD. I need to try find a place in Canada that stocks them (and bought before our dollar went bad)

A LONG time ago I started working on an upgraded rotor/caliper set for the 123 that would even fit under 14" wheels if needed, but stopped the project before they were finished. I was using rotors from a late-'80s RX-7 and calipers from a 240, but calipers from the RX-7 or from any other JY car would work fine too - better in fact, as they likely wouldn't have the 240 dual circuit silliness. The rotors are a little over 10" diameter and the same 22mm vented width as the 240 calipers, and are within a fraction of the 120 offset.

Stock rotors mount to the rear and there's nothing but the studs holding them in place. I believe the factory rotors are turned after they're installed on the hub because when I installed the new rotors there was some runout. Nothing that couldn't be cleaned up with a brake lathe, but a little more careful machining would cure that.

I never got to the stage where I built the caliper brackets, which would have been the same bolt-on design as the stock 120 but with the appropriate bolt spacing for the new calipers and rotors.

Some images remain here:

viewtopic.php?p=21720#p21720

Minimum is 12.2mm. I've found a used set here, but if yours are within that spec, I might as well grab them from you too!

Matt, your efforts always amaze me.



I'll pull the wheels tommorow and let you know!

Excellent thanks!

Here's a link to a thread on OVT regarding an off the shelf DD brake upgrade that appears intended to fit under smaller wheels. The info is within his TDI swap in to a 66 122 wagon, and unfortunately the OP disappears before finishing the project so no idea on how/if this works. Maybe someone with more knowledge can peruse his brake setup to see if it makes sense?

http://www.ovtuners.org/forum/viewtopic ... b0ff70875a

This shouldn't be that hard. You could grab a tape measure and basically work out what is needed based on a couple of different options. Here's how I would do it (and I'm not doing it - because I've done it and I don't really have a stock front end anymore and my Corvette C4 front end doesn't need me to figure much out.).

First - read this book (it's $6 on Amazon - with delivery via helicopter) http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Handbook-Fred-Puhn/dp/0895862328

Using the what your desired target might be for braking force (you've computed this from the backwards computing the stock set up and adding more) - start looking at calliper options from Wilwood (or pick your race calliper). You may want to up the pressure on the MC (decrease size) to reduce pedal effort...but this will also increase stroke a little. It's a system - you have to work out a few variables.

The old calliper has a 3.5" bolt spacing for attaching to the spindle. So you can either do some form of bolt on or you can actually replace that part entirely (it's bolted onto the spindle). Both have been done, I did the adapter, Dale and Matt just made a new mount. Your choice.

The next selection basically seals the deal, and that's the rotor. There are lots of 5 X 4.5" pattern rotors, you'll want something around 11" (so start with small, light import cars - probably Toyota or Mazda from the 1990's as they share that pattern often - Rock Auto gives dimensions). Then workout where the hub mount face lands the rotor with the new rotor (you'll have to decouple the original rotors from the hub by driving out the studs). You'll most likely mount your new brake rotor in the more conventional fashion with it sandwiched between the hub and the wheel. Note that this will change where your wheel mounts as the wheel originally mounted to the hub. This move outwards increases the scrub radius (Matt, is it positive already?) - increasing the scrub will increase steering effort.

Now that the rotor is installed (get these locally - usually pretty cheap). Then work out where the calliper needs to go and either make an adapter or make a bolt on mount. It's not easy, but it's not rocket science either. You then need to decide if all this is worth the $400 for a new set of rotors.

This has been done before http://applefarmerracing.com/car.html - this car raced Pikes Peak and La Carrera Panamericana with stock rotors and Wilwood callipers without adapters and they fit under Panasports. Seems like a no brainer to me.