anyone have any tips/procedural advice...

now that i know the rotor upgrade will fit i would like to do these SS lines while i have teh garage space...be done with the whole brake system for the rest of the year beside the odd paint touch up/pad change

ciao

Soak the brake line fittings in penetrating oil before you try loosening them, saves twisting a brake line off.

about that...is it really easy to twist a line off?

what about a fluid flush? i can't find shit on turbobricks or anything

and brickboard gives me a headache trying to navigate

i have new fluid i want to use as well

ciao

in my experiance it was very easy to twist a line, i assume we are refering to the small metal ones? i found i usually didnt notice i was twistign the line till it was to late, as ian said just soak them a ton in pentrating oil and just have a lot of light on them so u can tell as soon as u start twisting the line.

i usually use on of those bleeders you hook up to a spare tire or other air pressure source, saves a lot of time.

Lots of light, and keep an eye on the line to make sure it's not twisting with the nut. I find that if I tighten and loosen 1/4 turn a number of times, it helps to work the penetrating oil in between the line and nut, and eventually it comes loose. If you twist it too far, the line deforms and locks the nut, and you'll never get it off.

If you're really stuck, cut the old hoses off and then you can pull the whole line off to work on on the bench, or replace as necessary. Auto Value carries metric lines in the proper flare in a few lengths, and SOME connectors to join them - you'll have to bend them, and that's another matter.

But yeah: light, lots of penetrating oil, LINE WRENCHES (the type with the almost-boxed ends, or 6 point boxed end with an open slot), and lots of patience.

Once you get the old hoses off, spend lots of time working with the hard lines, spraying penetrating oil and twisting the nut down the line somewhat, to clean out the rust/grit/filth up near the end. More penetrating oil, back and forth action, and the nut will spin very freely. I just did this on some VERY bad lines for the 242, and it worked a treat.

On the flush: use at least a litre of fluid. Bleed each brake at least three times, going around the car in the pattern of furthest from the MC to the nearest, usually meaning RR, LR, RF, RF, LF, LF, and then around again. Make sure that you've got access to a spare master cylinder, in case yours is rusty past the normal stroke and you wreck the seals when you bottom out the pistons. This is where pressure bleeding is beneficial... I'll let Ian explain that part.

thanks guys!!!

i'll give it a whirl here this week

ciao

now as far as position of the rotors...should it be like this



or...the reverse??? liek the holes going the other way, or does ir really matter????

also matt check out TB my stopping power thread...there is a suggestion to swap out the brake master cylinder as well

ciao

On your car it doesn't matter the "direction" of the holes because the vents are radial, but on cars with serious brakes (these Wilwoods for example) the vents are directional, and scoop cooling air from inside to outside.

I think it looks silly when people have the holes going the "wrong" way, even when their rotors are radially vented, so my vote is to do them like that picture.

I saw how Tim was dumping on you about how you'd have worse braking distances, but I didn't see anywhere saying that you should change the MC yet. If this is to redistribute brake pressure, that person doesn't know what they're talking about. Any brake circuit designed around a diagonal split MUST have equal line pressures in both channels. The only way to get your rear brakes more active force is to monkey with the brake limiting valves (and I'm not even sure if 700s have these) or to increase rear caliper piston diameter.

Apparently there are three different calipers for 700s - 36, 38, and 40 mm piston sizes. There's a good possibility your rear calipers have 36mm pistons, due to the facts that it's a sedan and that it's got the smallest front brakes.

ian saved me from tim's wrath...

umm to me those rotors look funyn that way, but maybe i am missing something, the front of the car is to the right of that picture

right now how i installed them was the reverse way...because i figured the lowet hole will hit the pad first at the bottom of the caliper, ending with the top hole leaving the pad on the top of the caliper, venting out if you will

does that make sense??

to me in that pic it looks like the dust would get dragged towards the inner center of the disc rather than be flared outwards?

if i am totally out to lunch here though i have no problem changing them, i would rather have the most functional system

ciao

Pardon me - I mistook the direction the car was pointed. Yes, those rotors are mounted opposite of what I think they should be. If you look at racing rotors, you'll see that the vents are shaped so they actually "push" air outwards, rather than scoop it inwards, and those vents/slots in that rotor pictured make it look like it's on backwards.

I mean, your holes are purely for looks, so they might as well look right, right?

look and "function"...think about it

my volvo is so fast just cause there's so much blue on everything

i need drilled rotors

okay i put them on the way i thought i should

cheers Matt, we agree on something

ciao

An easy way to change braking proportion is by just putting a better pad in the back. thats what i did with my mr2 and it makes a huge differences when the fronts dont lock up so early...

also IMO drilled rotors are crap, slotted rotors are ok but you wont notice any difference in fade etc...

You will notice the most difference with better pads and a good fluid flush with a fluid that has i higher boiling point.

yeah the reason i have bought the drilled rotors was because for regular rotors it would have been the same cost or more...plus these looking blinging

before the BC trip i will be swapping in some PBR deluxe pads...probably like ~halfway into july so they havea couple weeks and some highway use as well for the lethbridge car show

the pads on the car right now are pretty much new

the fluid i am going to use now is the ATE super blue racing fluid

ciao

the brake upgrade is done! (cept for PBR pads)

thanks to all for tips and such....and for Mr. Giles for some offline hints and advice...one line was troublesome but 5/6 ain't bad

no leaks to be found anywhere but i will keep and eye on it...one more touch up coat of paint and they will be good to go for a lil while until Brad can get some PBR's in

now onto something which i have experience with...to finish off my very evil window wobbling, mirror moving, body vibrating, extremely loud stereo

when it comes to music...there is no such thing as overkill

ciao