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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 12:42 pm 
0-60 in VERY FAST

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:14 pm
Posts: 160
Location: Regina, SK
As always, great advice Matt, much appreciated. I sent a note to Amazon Cars a while back on inquiry on their fast road springs, I'll have to dig out the info. These cold prairie -30 temps sure lend themselves to couch surfing lately.

Happy New Year everyone!

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David
1967 Volvo 131 B18D M41


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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 10:09 pm 
0-60 in VERY FAST

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:14 pm
Posts: 160
Location: Regina, SK
Hey friends, I got a question that I hope isn't too silly. In the spring, I want to pull the rear end out of the car, clean up the mounts, paint the rear end, etc., get it all fixed up.
How can I support the rear of the car? My only thoughts at the moment are the rear bumper supports or jack points. I don't want to rest the car on the frame, that's a definite. Those jack points look pretty small, I would feel safer with more jackstands underneath. Any opinions would be welcomed.

And I'll just park this here for fun, been thinking about this for a bit. Not that it will ever get done, but it's nice to think a bit outside the box.
I have been looking into the Aisin Toyota supercharger. It would have to have a custom intake manifold, probably injected, but controlled electrically. I have very little idea of the work involved, but looking at the Judson units out there, it doesn't seem 100% fantasy. The whole reason is to basically emulate my favorite movie, The Road Warrior. Being able to switch on a blower at the pull of a switch just attracts me to no end. For me, its an easy rabbit hole to disappear into. Practicality and feasibility seem low at this point, but it's a hoot to bench race with. Thanks for the indulgence!
http://www.roadkill.com/supercharge-eve ... -u-wrench/

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David
1967 Volvo 131 B18D M41


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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 10:24 am 
First volvo in outer space
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:46 pm
Posts: 1593
Location: East L.A.
FWIW mine is sitting on jackstands at all 4 corners right now, and has been for a while now... :oops: :oops:

I haven't had to drop the axle on the 122, but when I did bushings in the back of a 240 it sat on jack stands at the rear jack points and I sat the axle on another set while I removed the trailing arms and torque rods.

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Jim

66 122S (Garage Queen)
89 244 (Hers)
90 745Ti (Mine)
89 744 (SOLD/Bought back for other daughter)
78 242GT (Project... LOL)
91 244 (Don't Ask!!)


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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 8:03 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:19 pm
Posts: 2977
Location: Lethbridge, AB
My Canadian has been sitting on 12 ton stands at the rear bumper mount for the past 3 years. I've also left it for a long time on the tab mounts. Providing the inner sill is in good condition - Volvo did design that point to take the weight of the car. They are reinforced inside.

So you're fine either way.

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Coburn Performance - OCD comes naturally.


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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 10:46 pm 
0-60 in VERY FAST

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:14 pm
Posts: 160
Location: Regina, SK
Thanks very much guys!
Just fitted new choke cables today. I got the one from the Greece eBay seller. Both cables were the same length, I had to shorten one at least 10 inches to create the offset. I had to remove the metal cables ends that were supplied as well, there was no way for the ends to fit into the SU clamps. Grose jets go in next to see how they do.

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David
1967 Volvo 131 B18D M41


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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 11:40 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:14 pm
Posts: 160
Location: Regina, SK
Picked up this little number off of Amazon the other day (30-4110), hoping it can be of use tuning the air\fuel ratio.

Image

I need to get a better handle on the carbs and tuning as a whole. Nothing will happen until the end of April, since i broke a bone in my hand. Gives me lots of time to shop, though, which could be good or bad depending on the optics :).

Planned work for the spring includes finishing up the ignition as a a whole, removing the rear end, cleaning/painting it up, and new bushings as well. Maybe even new springs all around, and I hope to fit the Koni shocks I have. Floorboards still need to be done, but i have to gather cash for that. Another definite is figuring out the trans mount, and how to use the BW35 mounts on a M41. Cameron Lovre approves of a forward mounted bracket, so that is a good endorsement for what I think I will do.

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David
1967 Volvo 131 B18D M41


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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 7:52 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:19 pm
Posts: 2977
Location: Lethbridge, AB
Forward mount bracket? What does this look like? I had my M41 mounted on the same mount as my M40. Did the automatic have a different position for the cross member? Interesting.

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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 11:52 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:14 pm
Posts: 160
Location: Regina, SK
A car had come into his shop back in March 2017 that was previously an automatic and converted to a manual, like mine. The mount boxes between auto and manual cars are 100% located in different spots on the underside. The BW35 mounts are located rearward of the M4_ mounts would normally be. A recent article in Classic Motorsports quotes Mike Dudek in saying the same, that mods were needed as well. This reinforces my research in that I don't have a one-off situation.

It's just essentially ears that extend rearward from the proper mount on the transmission to the BW35 mounts on the underside of the car about 8-10 inches by my reckoning.

I don't have the skills or the tools to undertake welding new mounts to the underside, but if I can get to this point as shown in the photos, then I can at least get rid of that goofy-a$$ mount that is screwed into my framerails which is the current configuration. I have seen other similar styles of mounting like this on the web (Google "mount m41 to bw35" for images), but this the beefiest I have seen.

I asked Cameron about this type of mount and if it was ok, he had mentioned that it was perfectly fine. So I'll take that as a go-ahead at this stage. I may have a broken bolt in one mount, but I will inspect it when the time comes. I am pretty sure there are other pictures in this thread that explain that, so I won't re-post them here. Pics of the "Oregon Mount" are below.

Image

Image

Image

Image

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David
1967 Volvo 131 B18D M41


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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 1:17 pm 
Bone stock

Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2015 1:53 pm
Posts: 16
Not sure if that’s a J type or D type OD you have. You may be aware, but there’s 2 different small brackets that attach to the trans and to the rubber mount.

Also the original rubber mount is often replaced with a sturdier engine mount from a 164 which is shown in the right hand example in the picture.


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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 8:42 am 
0-60 in VERY FAST

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:14 pm
Posts: 160
Location: Regina, SK
Those pictures above aren't of my car, those are the customers' car. But I do know I have a type J OD in my car. I will look into these mounts, thanks for the heads up. I don't trust anything on this car as being correct by looking at it, I am trying to right the wrongs as I go.

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1967 Volvo 131 B18D M41


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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 8:10 pm 
0-60 in VERY FAST

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:14 pm
Posts: 160
Location: Regina, SK
Small update, I got my ignition all hooked up with a friends help and it went rather smoothly. I wanted to retain the armored cable in an attempt to keep things a bit more simple. I think it looks pretty good.

Image

Here's a pic of the new coil in its mounting. The car seems to crank a lot quicker as a result. A worthwhile upgrade in my mind.

Image

Here's a pic of the current engine bay. The car runs pretty smooth, but I seem to be fouling plugs like crazy. I am running KD needles and 12 flats back on the SU's but can't seem to find a happy medium. For now, I might bring a long a brass brush and a spark plug removal combo to clean them up if I go to shows, etc. I have read that the SU's run rich at idle, and they lean out as the throttle is engaged more. Hopefully I can get my O2 sensor installed in a week or two. I don't care about going rich so much as I am concerned about going lean.

As well, I can't get my darn tach to work. Green signal wire to the (-) side of the coil? Nope. Green signal wire hooked inline to the (-) side of the coil? Nope. I am thinking either I have a dud tach, or I blew it somehow. It's a Princess Auto special, so I might have got what I paid for. I read on some posts that I could test the tach by hooking it up to a 12v charger and reading the pulses it gives out. I might give that a try for a laugh. It feels good to get to the car again after a cold winter and a hand injury.

Image

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1967 Volvo 131 B18D M41


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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 9:17 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:40 pm
Posts: 3359
Location: Calgary, Ab
SUs run rich at idle. Or lean. Or perfect. They'll run exactly as well as you can tune them. SU carbs aren't prone to any particular tuning impossibilities. They may be Rube Goldberg devices for getting fuel mixed with air, but they can do the job very well.

Carbs tend to appreciate being a bit richer than stoich at idle, but not plug-fouling rich - we're talking about 13.0:1 AFRs, which would be a nice saddle brown on the plugs if you could get any kind of colour from plugs while at idle. If you can't get your idle under control with the jets, your float levels may be too high. Don't be afraid of lifting the jets some, but if fuel is shaking & splashing into the airstream from the float level being too high, you won't get a predictable tune.


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 Post subject: Re: 1967 Volvo 131 - The Project
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 10:11 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:19 pm
Posts: 2977
Location: Lethbridge, AB
Have you checked the throttle shafts for wear? It can make tuning SU's a chore...once fixed it's as easy as the manual says. What happens when you lift the bell using the pin (or a flat blade screwdriver to just crack them open)? Where is your timing set?

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