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 Post subject: Re: Matt's Winter Beater & Great Beater Challenge 2017 Entry
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2018 12:42 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:40 pm
Posts: 3366
Location: Calgary, Ab
Breaking the silence again... Things keep happening but I keep forgetting to post.

On a flyer I tossed a set of B21FT pistons next to the Saab B202 pistons. Both pistons have 24mm pins but the Volvo pistons are 2mm bigger diameter and are quite a bit taller. The obviously huge dish in the Volvo piston would have to get cut down pretty drastically, which would remove a lot of the top ring land and would weaken that part of the piston somewhat, but it COULD be done if I wanted to undertake such a thing. Obviously the goal would be to increase volume and decrease compression ratio, and since Saab pistons are unavailable (unless I want to spend $800 USD on 8:1 forged racing pistons) one needs to think about these things...

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While I think, I've bead blasted the Saab pistons after protecting the ring lands with a little E-tape. The skirts came up a couple tenths of a thousandth of an inch, and will retain a bit more oil this way. I've performed this method of reviving an old piston a few times with good results.

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Bumped into this guy at the Rona. He's in the next neighborhood over. I forget the year of his car but it's quite similar to mine except that the original owner checked every option box he could - sway bars, center console, etc. I had my car in ACC and was listening to the stereo while I waited for him to come out, and while we chatted, and all the time I forgot that the stupid headlights stay on in this position. Battery was stone dead by the time I went to leave...

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Not too much later I discovered that my dash repair wasn't foolproof. It started cracking again, right beside the bondo spots. There are days the crack is invisible and days that it's split wide open, so obviously the dash heaves and pitches as the temperature changes.

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 Post subject: Re: Matt's Winter Beater & Great Beater Challenge 2017 Entry
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2018 1:17 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:40 pm
Posts: 3366
Location: Calgary, Ab
Time to fix up those Enkeis. I pulled the mismatched 205/50 tires off them and started looking at the wheels. Every single one of them was bent to some degree - two had pretty good flat spots and the other two were just warped a little. I screwed them down to my workbench and wailed away at them with hardwood and hammer until I was fairly happy. Roundness was verified on my lathe - there was only so much I could do...

I wasn't sure what I wanted to do about the coating - they'd all been curb rashed and they all had chips & gouges in them, and I knew it would bug me, but if they were powdercoated I knew it would be a PITA to deal with. I gave the backside of one of the spokes a quick scrape with some sandpaper and quickly got down to metal, so I decided to toss them in my blasting cabinet. That's when I discovered that while the backsides carried a light dusting of paint, the fronts were all powdercoated!!! I spent a good long time erasing my fingerprints while sanding these down. To topcoat I used a new-to-me product called Endura and I had a little trouble, so I ended up re-sanding and re-topcoating them again. The whole paint process ate up about 4 weeks and they're not perfect, but they're finished.

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I tracked down a set of sway bars and paid dearly to have them shipped from Florida, but you'd be surprised to find how difficult it is to get someone to remove a set. I feared installation would require a lot of trouble, as the front one has to wind in and around the steering rack through the little holes in the frame, and the factory instructions I'd found included templates on where to drill for the mount bushing fasteners, but fortunately I'd removed all my power steering and by 1987 Saab was pre-drilling holes for sway bars, so the complete install took about 2 hours. No pictures.

With the bars in and the wheels on, other handling "traits" were more easily observed. I felt the next step was going to be stiffer control arm bushings, but poly bushings for these cars are quite dear and I'm not thrilled with poly in this location so I ordered some Delrin from McMaster-Carr and turned up some bushings on the lathe.

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I also blasted, straightened, reinforced, primed, and painted the lower & upper control arms. The uppers can't go in until the engine comes out, so I didn't finish the bushings for this location either, but the lowers are done and installed. Steering response is much more predictable, the ride is slightly firmer and there's a little more NVH, but considering the bushings are solid plastic, it's pretty darn good.

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(I did discover an interference between the pinch weld on the body of the car, directly below the driveshaft through-hole, that interfered with the top reinforcement plate of the control arm. I marked it and cut a slot for clearance, problem solved. Again, no pictures).

While I was thinking about control arms and bushings and such, I was thinking about springs. With a little research I found a JY spring that, when cut to height, should very closely match the SPG specifications. The front springs are from the rear of a '92-96 Olds 98 and the rear springs are from the rear of an '02-07 Buick Rendezvous AWD. The rears ended up a bit stiffer than stock SPG and the fronts ended up a bit softer than SPG so the ride balance is a bit truckish, but the handling is great! I cut them to published free lengths of 11.7 front and 11.5 rear, and the car sits with perfectly even fender gaps front and rear. If the stiffnesses were TOO far off, the fender gaps would be whacko and they're pretty close so I guess we're in the ballpark. I may build new upper & lower mounts for the front springs that incorporate coilover springs and adjustable perches, and will probably try some 450 in-lb 10" long coils, but they're pretty excellent for now. ZOMG!!! I cut my springs! F**k off, get over it.

Before cutting:

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Before and after, forgive the different perspective but you get the idea.

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 Post subject: Re: Matt's Winter Beater & Great Beater Challenge 2017 Entry
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2018 1:33 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:40 pm
Posts: 3366
Location: Calgary, Ab
I guess one more picture-free post: We've decided to enter this car in the 2018 GBC event. Things are going to get a little silly. More on that later.

Last weekend I did some basic maintenance to the car - new plugs, new wires, new injector seals, new belts, and a new hood release cable. While I was in there, and while it's summertime, I pulled the heat stove assembly and cobbled together a cold air intake from junk I had lying around: a 2.5" 90 degree silicone elbow and a chunk of Volvo intercooler pipe I'd cut a piece off and tossed into my stash. The elbow fits perfectly and requires no more than light clamping to the K-jet airbox, and the tubing runs down to the bumper grille area like it was designed that way! It was immediately apparent that when hot, the car had more snap. I also discovered (shame on me for not discovering this earlier) that the vacuum advance in my distributor has a torn/rotted diaphragm and was causing a huge vacuum leak at part throttle. I have no spare distributor so I capped the TB and my light cruise stumble is all but gone - go figure!


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 Post subject: Re: Matt's Winter Beater & Great Beater Challenge 2017 Entry
PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 9:39 am 
First volvo in outer space
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:46 pm
Posts: 1594
Location: East L.A.
ZOMG!!! I cut my springs! F**k off, get over it.

Lol!!

Nice work as always Matt! You and Craig amaze me with all the repurposing/fabricating ideas you come up with. Retail!! We don't need no stinking retail

_________________
Jim

66 122S (Garage Queen)
89 244 (Hers)
90 745Ti (Mine)
89 744 (SOLD/Bought back for other daughter)
78 242GT (Project... LOL)
91 244 (Don't Ask!!)


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