Cool. Thanks James!
1. When I installed the inner fender covers, there were no holes, and usually the upper back one has a little flattened boss to sit on. Nothing like that here. So I drilled a few holes. I can't tell if the car has been hit, so this looks pretty stock. Weird.
2. Yep, I'm expecting it to be loud.
3. Crappy. Mine is rusty. I may have to cut it out and put in a later removable one.
4. I had seen a few different versions of this so I was wondering what the deal was. I like having the metal one for sure.

Nope my heat is a slider. Weird. I've seen the dial ones in pictures, but for some reason I've rarely seen one here. Did all '75's there have the dial? Maybe this ones been swapped.

I had noticed the bell protector bits on the motor mounts. Weird! Funny how those showed up 7 years later. I'll look out for the brake junction being rotated. After having swapped all the brakes, I'll agree I like working with these early fittings better than the later ones. I also noticed a lot of the hardware on this car isn't plated like the later cars. Primarily in the interior.

Well, its time for an update with this.

Here's whats been done now:
-tailgate window put in. Electrics seem to work.
-overload rear springs put in
-Boge Turbo struts up front, with HD front springs
-braided stainless brake lines all the way around
-NGK plugs. Craig made me some new plug wires. Cap and rotor still good.
-fan shroud installed. Some vacuum lines replaced.
-rest of brakes installed.
-newer floor mats. Door sills cleaned up.

Other than this, things have been kind of a pain. The brakes were refusing to bleed for some reason. After pulling the lines off the brake master cylinder, we realized there wasn't much fluid coming out of it. A new one was ordered and put in. Still no brakes. In the back, I found the rear brake junction was clogged. Lots of fluid before the block, not much after. I swapped the one from YROG, and its much better. In the front, after Craig corrected an amateur mistake on my part, we still couldn't get the brakes to work. Sucky. Things were bled repeatedly, and the brakes just kept going to the floor. Couldn't figure it out. All bleed screws were closed. Zero leaks. New fluid, new MC, new flex lines. Nothing. After a late night, we traced the lines to the front junction block. There was fluid there. Started reattaching lines, fluid kept coming. So we went to bleed, and nothing.....no fluid. Huh?

We're figuring that junction block must have some crap in it that is being lodged and dislodged, causing the fluid to come intermittently. I'm gonna swap the one from the YROG in the hope this solves it. What a mess.

Added to that, the front steering rack is really really pooched. It holds zero fluid. I was hoping to disconnect the pump, and just run it manual for now, but considering this car has to pass an inspection still, I'm not sure that's gonna fly with the mechanic. I may just swap the whole rack from the YROG. Any ideas if I need to swap pumps from that car too? Or can I use the existing pump?

I was hoping the car would be on the road by now, but its not to be.

Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up

Still got bubbles? Nope.
Got brakes? Nope.

Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up
Down - Hold ...Up

Anything? Nope.

WTF.

Rusty master cylinder. You pressed the pedal past the normally used "clean" area, and scraped the seals against the rusty unused part of the bore. That's why pressure bleeding is sometimes preferable.

looks like they ordered a new master, so that shouldn't be the problem.

Did you bleed the master before installing it?

Edit - Also have a look at the rear calipers. If you've got the early style (with the little lump cast into the body right where the piston would be) they're the smaller diameter. You've also got the lower pressure rear limiting valves. I had those rear calipers on my '77, with vented front brakes, and I eliminated the limiting valves. It stopped AMAZING! Slight front brake lockup before a 4 wheel skid in a straight line, slight tail-happiness during trail braking. With the wagon, you will have a bit more weight over the rear, but if you keep the ride height high you'll have more weight transfer during braking than I did. If you're not cool with eliminating the limiting valves, get some from a later model 245 - they run at higher pressure. You can interchange the calipers too, for more rear brake power.

Yes, I bleed the MC first - we probably did dislodge some rust and stuff when we first tried to bleed the brakes. The fluid was black - should have flushed first, then swapped the parts over. The limiting valve and brakes are all from Greg's other wagon, so they are fine. We now have clear fluid in all the lines, so swapping out the distribution block should clear up the problem.

Yeah, perhaps I dislodged the rust out of the MC when we first bled the brakes, and it was clogging the lines. I'm guessing that's not the issue now, as there's the new MC, and there's fluid at the first junction, so it should be fine.

Yeah, Matt, the brakes are all from the YROG, so I'm assuming they're the later style, and it has the vented rotors up front. The rear limiting valve is from the yellow car as well. I hadn't thought about removing it entirely, but maybe I'll have to try that if I'm not happy with the balance later on!

Finger's crossed that front junction block solves my problem.

I'm not sure it's dislodging rust on an old m/c as much as destroying the seal with the rusty walls. I've done that on more than one brake job...

Of course, not an issue if you've got a new m/c

I have a b20E with an overdrive tranny hooked to it fo' cheap. Only trouble is, it's up here in edmonton, and it's gotta be gone in about a week. (sitting in a 142E with giant holes in the floor)

I've gotten a dead 240 MC new a couple times. It really sucked. It was DOA and I couldn't get the car to make a brake pedal no matter what I did.

Pressure bleeding an old MC is definitely a good way to keep things from making trouble.

Sorry to distract, but since i haven't really paid attention to what 240s come with what for rear limiting valves and hardware, I thought i'd ask matt here.

I know early early 240s come with girling rear/ ate front calipers.
Wagons usually get a little larger pistons in the rear and higher pressure limiting valves yeah?

I'm thinking of eliminating the restriction valves in my '80DL since it is way too front biased with vented girlings on the front and fresh wagon ATEs on the back. At the same time, I need to replace the junk-shun block (I hate those things), so I am thinking of just canning the whole dual diagonal brakes all together and thinking of making it front-rear with the ABS master and lines and whatever set of rear calipers will shift the braking bias as far back as possible.

BRAKES ARE BLED!!

I swapped the junction block, Craig pushed the pedal, and still....no fluid. I don't know if we didn't bleed enough, but nothing. I ended up gravity bleeding the entire car, by undoing nearly every single fitting until fluid came out. The fluid followed me everwhere I went, so there weren't any blockages. After doing the whole car this way, I had another friend pump the pedal, and after doing about half the car again, the pedal firmed up finally. Geez.

That said, I now have chewing gum filling a small hole in my oil pan to prevent the engine from dumping its entire contents. Yep. I'll get a picture tomorrow, but all I can say right now is I saw a small drop of oil out of the bottom of the pan a few days back. I cleaned it off, thinking it was some power steering fluid, as that had puked everywhere. Again today, there was a single droplet which I wiped off. After putting my hand up there, I felt what seemed to be a hole. Later tonight I figured I'd poke it to see if it was a dent or something tiny. Nope. My whole screwdriver went in. Immediately, a bit of really dirty oil with some dirt chunks came out, followed promptly by the fresh synthetic contents of my oil pan. Fortunately I got my finger on the hole quickly, and my friend procured some chewing gum from his mouth.

Yep. Its plugged with gum, and holding steady. Unreal.

WTF. Why is there a hole in my oil pan? And more importantly, why did it not puke out when I drove it, or ran it, or filled it? This is seriously almost laughable at this point. Who drills a hold in their oil pan? The hole is perfectly round.

huh, that does sound very weird, failed +T attempt? I would definitely like to know what kind of gum your buddy was chewing so i can make sure to pack that in my tool kit the next time i go on a road trip

OK, now I'm totally pissed - more like my right leg is unhappy. I put at least a year's worth of pumps into that damn peddle and it gets done when I go home for the night. Damn. I call dibs on pushing the peddle next time I'm in the garage. I just want to feel brakes. No kidding, this was at least 6 hours of peddle pushing.

I think we need a power bleeder in Lethbridge.

All kidding aside, that's great news. As for the hole, I'm sure it was a +T attempt! At least it's steel, so drain all the oil out of the pan and I'll toss the welder and the tank in the car and we'll fix it for good.

Project Smurf - almost complete.

Hahaha! Yeah, there was lot of pedal pushing by the fine folk at Coburn Performance. You can push that pedal anytime today, as long as you bring a welder with you!

I'm considering a power bleeder. That job SUCKED.

For the record, I believe the gum was Trident....