Go as far as the rust goes...internal panel treatment is tricky. Some have used POR (could put it in a schutz gun and hose it down) or use 3M inner panel treatment (body shop supply). I usually just tremclad it when open and do the best I can to find out why it rusted in the first place.

It's a tough spot to get to, no suggestion, but you can get wheel-well liners from Olaf. Only another $225, but worth-it if they work - I haven't put mine on yet. There is also a rubber gasket (? the right word escapes me at the moment) that goes at the inside-back of the fender. Craig and Dale told me about it - I don't recall ever seeing one on there, and I've had a few fenders off. It may be they have a tendancy to fall-off for some reason - I'm gonna glue that sucker in there....

If you don't have POR 15, try One-Step acid treatment (spray or paint-on), then maybe cover that with whatever. It will kill whatever oxidation you have on there from the welding. If you are taking off panels and fixing whot-nots one at a time, then sandblasting (the best option imho) may not always work, so something like POR or Metal-Ready (phosphoric acid) or One Step are a good second-best. Any other ideas?

I'd be interested to know from others who have tried it how soaking rusted parts in Coke works.... (oops - THREADJACKER alert!)

well, heading back to town this weekend, goal is to get the passenger fender done, and weld in the motor mounts on the PV, will take some pics of the prior.

Welp, got lucky and picked up a nearly rust free shell today, I guess I'll be entertaining offers on this one + all the patch panels.

"Ad" pics, comes basically with another cars worth of parts...

super solid bodywise though, drivers floor ribs have afew dime sized holes in the pressings, and the rear floor has a bigger hole in it, but no holes in rockers/cowl/inner fenders/anything, it's been undercoated religiously, all the rust is from water on the inside.

body is very straight too.


rear end seems a bit noisy, so that'll likely need to get dealt with, and the b18 leaks some oil. how hard is it to reseal? i've got a t5 and setup ready to go, and access to a LSD explorer axle i think can be shortened pretty easily... we'll see if the stock stuff can't be savaged first though... comments?

So what is it you are thinking about selling? Sounds like you have plans for this one already...

And what are those headlights? Are they Bosch H4 or funky quartz iodide? If the latter, I have some brand new bulbs for them. You need to send them to me...

i'm considering selling the blue one i picked up at the beginning of this thread, a 67' canadian, i've ordered the patch panels from olof, and was going to fix it up, but for the effort involved, the right price, this one was totally worth picking up. Has a hole in the cowl by the inner fender/support piece, needs both inner fender support pieces (have the patches), A pillar rust on both sides, rockers on both sides (have patches), wheel arches (have patches) and a bit of work on the inner spare tire area where the bumper mounts out back. It also needs some work in the fenders/nose cone area. It needs brakes, but the new car comes with a good master cylinder, a good brake booster if i want, and some caliers/such. I've got about 2k into the blue car thus far though, so i'm not sure i'd get my money back without putting in some serious effort and finishing it on my accord, in which case i'd may as well fix it up and possibly sell it.

That being said, i WOULD like a nice chassis to eventually swap a vw 1.6 TD into and some airbags, but that could be done with any of them.....



i hate having options!

Now, this wagon comes with a windshield, but not installed. anyone know how hard that is?

I'm thinking for the new car i'll fix up the two floorpans, get the thing running and on the road (since front + rear brakes and front suspension was done at a cost of ~~2500$ in 2003) and set it up for a cruiser/autox in as stock of trim as possible.

eventually, i've got a b20b in good shape, a b21f+t sitting in the garage in great shape with about 25k since a rebuild on it, and all the parts to build a big power 16v motor (RSI h beams, dale's pulley, a fresh block/pistons, a good head) etc... so there are a few possible options for the future, though i'm intending not to plan that far ahead, i'll get out, i'll autocross it/cruise it a bit, and see where it needs improvement, if any. And then plan the mods accordingly. I've still got to finish the PV, which has had good progress latel.

The plan so far:

I'd like to get some paint on it, probably a two tone burgundy/white, and get it on the road with the interior assembled again. running, nice paint job, and rust free. It turns out it's cheaper to insure two cars than it is to insure just one.

THEN i can worry about what i'm going to do with it.

Now, one more thing, i can't tell if it's a 67' or a 68', how do i tell? chassis code?

Tin plate above the pedals in the engine compartment: it will say 222941M if it's a '67, 222941P if it's a '68.

Based on the steering column and box, it's not a '68 though that can be changed.

hmm, i'll have to check that out... if i had to guess i'd say the steering column was rebuilt/replaced because of how bloody clean and tight it is.

not sure what the headlights are, will have a look when i'm back in town...

anyone know a place that will turn some AL bushings for me to make an alignment jig out of?

decided on a colour....



shouldn't be too hard to lay that down nice.

And found an 8.8 in good shape for $250. w/3.73's and a truetrac LSD.

it'll end up being right near 56.75" wide though between WMS. Craig guesses it may fit with the right offset wheels.

anyone know what the largest size you can go is before you run into fender interference issues on stock stuff?

I'm running 215/45/17 on mine with a 240 rear end, 42mm offset wheels and 20mm spacers. Still lots of room. Well...maybe not lots but I'm sure a guy could run 235 or 245 without a problem. Not sure if the wagon is the same as the sedan back there though. What's the dimension on the 240 rear end? Gonna need some biiig offset wheels to get them tucked with an 8.8, I'm thinking.

i believe it's 54.5"

so this is 2.25" wider in total... so 28.575 mm wider per side... if you're running et42 - 20mm, that's only 8mm and change difference per side... it'll be tight, but should be doable. I'm relatively confident i could shorten up the 8.8, and if it doesn't fit, the rear end in the 960 has been making a bit of noise. Do you have a gallery anywhere with shots of the wheels mounted? Ideally i'd like to run some biggish wheels. I'm very tempted to use this as an autocrosser/cruiser. Any reccomended reading for these cars?

Unfortunately most of what you're doing is uncharted water. We've done a ton of crazy stuff to my 122 and we were pretty much on our own, but you're pushing the envelope even a little further.

This is the best shot I can think of with my car...


Never had any rubbing, even with a good load in the car...

oh, looks like there'll be plenty of room then! not to mention all the little things that can be done for clearance if it does end up tight. Thanks for the shot!

I'm still shocked how much cheaper it was to get 2 cars insured than just one... lol.

Gosh, Dale, that car looked pretty-nice before you - er - improved it.

My old '69 was that colour