Found a good hood today! A little rusty, but it'll do!



and shows the terrible belt geometry... means i'm gonna need an idler of some type on here....

any junkyard suggestions?

okay guys, it's official, there's not enough room for my fat size 14 feet between the t5 and the new accelerator pedal/clutch/brake so the box is moving over and gaining me a couple of inches of manifold clearance in the process.


anyone know how much deflection is okay in a rag joint?

cut out the pedal box, and worked out the new steering column position relative to the pedals, just off to the side of the brake pedal now rather than between, but it'll work.

have some fun sheet metal fandangling to do now

found a little bit of rust in the seam between the wing and the firewall, peeled it back, scraped it out, the metal is still pretty solid, so i think i'm okay, sprayed some weld-thru primer and closed it back up and then put some heat into it to hold it all together, looks like some of the spot welds have failed.

If you have to move the peddle cluster, swap out the rag joint for a u-joint and be done with it - I don't think they are designed for much angle.

Unfortunately it's a 64 spline .835" connection, can't find anything off the shelf that'll fit. I could pull the worm, shorten it, plug it up, weld it, then turn it down to .75" and mill it down to a 3/4" DD setup, I think I'll be able to keep the rag joint though... For now...

What? It's just a hollow shaft. If you have to make an adapter (to 3/4"), cut the input shaft add an adapter slug (plug weld) then on with the U-joints. http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0005/s0014

basically what i was going to do, haha.

It's a .835" shaft now and .6something" ID, so i'd need to pull it out and fit it anyways.

So the other plan that would work is to have an adapter that fits inside the tube, and welded the whole way around on the outside, that adapts it to a 3/4" DD.... which is just a bar of 3/4" 1018 milled down on each side....

So what would likely work is use a slug of 3/4" 1018, turn one end down to fit snugly in the tube, mill the other end down to the DD fit, bevel the end of the tube and weld it up. But, i still need to pull the worm gear to do that...

I wouldn't pull it apart...there is no reason to. There are no seals in side and you're changing the shaft one already right. Pull the box, machine the stub shaft adapter and weld it up. Done. Cracking the recirculating ball units is basically a can-o-worms.

I'm gonna have to figure out how to change the shaft one without disassembling it, or at least get a breakdown.

Looks like my entire tax return will be earmarked to finishing this car. Should get me there. And also looks like i'm moving to Saskatchewan.


Anyone know where to get a windshield, other than Olof? (He will not ship them, and it's a very long drive)

I looked around for a windsheild and finally a friend of a friend who has a mobile windsheild business got me one. The retail glass places all drew a blank. This is Calgary, of-course, but I think if you persevere you should find someone who can find one, or if-not, I can call Pete and see where he got mine from. Let me know if you want me to make that call. It took a couple of weeks as I recall, and cost something like $325. Robbery.

BTW: any progress on the seatbelt question? I've been at work, so haven't done anything yet. For-sure in April when I'm off I'll be getting something done. I have a hunch VW's might be the place to look.

So, it sounds like you are going into the potash mining business?? I don't know that part of Saskatchewan, but I do like it in SE Sask.

James

yeah, olof can get them, ~~200 if i remember right, but won't ship them, so i may be taking a road trip out there one day regardless, i've got a few sources lined up, but haven't beaten down any doors until i have cash-in-hand.

Yeah, i'm heading out to Esterhazy, got a pretty neat job lined up for an engineer-in-training, so i'm ready to have a little bit of change. I start may 9th, so that's my new goal for that car... hah.

At least i should have my tax return this week, the only problem is the homework and assignments have been piled on, so it'll be hard to maintain a balance. And it's still minus a bazillion here.

gonna have to look through the junkyards and figure out where to get some cheaper 3/4" DD to something u joints and get started on that asap too.

Goal for the week is to have the pedal box completely moved over and the firewall repaired/patched in. Super-goal is to have gone out to car-bashers and pulled a tranny tunnel and have that patched in.

didn't get what i wanted to do last weekend, trimmed up the pedal box, that's it.

BUT i did get the tig welder hooked up, and after i figured out to turn it off of AC, and then to electrode negative, i can learn the basics of welding next week. so far, just running on some 14ga sheet before i balled up the tungsten running DCEP it feels like oxy-welding in a lot of ways, so it might not be all that difficult.

Get the iron ring saturday, so this weekend is another writeoff.

I did however find the s10 column with a keylock is 29.5" from the hornpad to the firewall flange, and has a 1" DD joint on the end and is a fairly similar diameter.... i'm thinking of picking one up to see how it fits, might be an easy swap.

Congrats on the graduation. As far as TIG goes...doing it properly is not like gas welding and it is difficult. You can stick stuff together with similar techniques to gas, but it won't be right. Practice is the only solution - that and the welding vids over at weldingtipsandtricks.com

haha yeah, i've probably watched every video on that site now a few times, but now comes the fun part, getting seat time!

good thing i've got a box full of 16-22ga scraps to practise on. striking an arc with tig seems to be loads easier than with a stick welder. the HF works on my machine too.

had the cover off to wire it up correctly (and safely, since someone had just electrical taped it together the first time :S) and it's kind of neat how the crank just shifts the core in the transformer...

gives me bad ideas for a foot-pedal control.

As well, my regulator leaks a bit, so a new one will be required, the torch feels akward, but should do for now. We'll see what happens in the next little while.

new regulator on, need a collet for the smaller tungsten since i'm using 1/8" right now on this stuff :S

but, here's a few practise beads on some 18ga steel. i think i have the current up a bit too high still.

the middle is the first try, then the top is next then the bottom is the last one, i think i'm gonna need a lot of seat time here.