Hard to tell the scale from the pictures, but if I had to guess: a little less on the rod feed and/or a little quicker travel? I love having control of the heat with a pedal!

Yup, get a 3/32" or 1/16" Tungsten in there...Lanthanated is great. Remember, you're trying to keep the weld puddle to the same width as the material thickness. Think "dip - dip - dip" as you move about 1/8" at a time. A little more movement if you'd like your "dimes" stacked a little further apart. I don't have any photos of TIG that I've done on steel in the flat position. Here's a sprocket and hub I welded with TIG last summer for reference.

did up one side of the mounts for the PV today since i don't have a collet for the smaller electrodes, and wanted to practise. made a tight (~.3-.5mm) fitup and used probably two dips of filler and fusion welded it as i would with an oxy-torch at about 110A on DCEN after tacking at 140A The sheet is 1/8" mild steel.

I can't tell from what you've posted, but steel only needs about 10 - 15 cfm of argon and 110 A sounds hot to me - I'd have that as my top end (full pedal). Get yourself some collets - collet bodies and a gas lens...for doing 1/8" I would be at 3/32 or even 1/16" (open corner...1/16"). My Miller calculator suggests 12" a minute for the rate. You should be able to get your welds to lay a little flatter. I buy most of my TIG consumables from eBay - last time from a company in Thailand. They work great and you can get set up for not a lot.

So smaller and slower still eh?

The weld seems as strong or stronger than my mig welding though

found a 3/32" lanthanated electrode and collet in the junk drawer at school, so took it home and ground it up and tried a little lap-weld before getting back to my paper..... it's a little nicer this time,





and played with a bunch of stainless after getting fed up with said report, ran out of tungsten, of course... so used a crusty balled up one and it seemed to help me get the idea of how to hold arc length and angles a bit better, i figure this is gonna take 10-15hrs of actual seat time to get the hang of enough to lay a nice bead.

tried playing with some sheet metal in an hour i had free today, this is to close up a hole in the pedal/steering box in the amazon now that it's being relocated.





can't wait for my new collets/tungstens to get here from amazon.com....

Hi Erik,

I'm back in Calgary now, and bumped-into Pete the Glass Installer. About getting a windsheild, he says that it is a pain, but if you lean on Speedy Glass, they are the best connected to find such stuff, and it is just getting someone on a good day for them to make the calls and find one.

I note that Vancouver is in the opposite direction from Esterhazy.

I'll keep you posted about retractable seatbelts when I find something.

Jimbo

Best glass shop in Calgary I have found is Pay-Less Glass in Calgary.
They were the ONLY company outside of the dealer that could find glass for my C70.
They also get glass directly from Pilkington, which is Volvo OEM
2-920 28th St NE, Calgary, AB T2A6K1
(403) 273-0085

Have delt with Kathy and the team there on several windshields and our custom shower doors, cannot say enough good things about the company or their staff. Say I sent you, they will know who I am.

thanks guys, i'll have to see about windshields, i've gotta be out on the island on the 25'th of june for a wedding, so i may be able to pull something off there as well.






cut up the pedal box and got it positioned roughly right, have some massaging to do and then i'll be able to fit it in and get it welded up. I found some rust in the seam of the inner fender to the fire-wall support, it's not severe rust, but it is surface rust in the crack, so i'm going to sandblast and treat it before welding over it, then cover it up very well with some very sticky epoxy/seam sealer.

checked and both cylinders will clear as well, and i have enough room for the steering column, but i'm going to be changing to a U joint running above the A arm paralell and then up through the center of that structural piece along the firewall. That will provide the right kind of geometry to collapse should i mangle this thing up badly (fingers crossed that doesn't happen)

got a little more done before i ran out of wire.... ah well.

ran off to PA for some more wire, and got back at'er.

Try to fit the hood.

Already did, fits with the hinges just fine, only a half inch of clearance, but it fits.

wait, there's supposed to be two springs per hinge eh? oops, looks like the one side only has one.

Ah well, still fits. And since i've got the IC i'll need to have pins in the front anyways.