Ok, I replaced my FPR with a new one from Volvo and the thing started after abit of cranking. It ran for about 20 min and then for no reason it just stopped, no sputter or anything, just shut off.

Now it will crank but wont start and I took off the fuel line on the FPR (regulator) and there is no fuel coming out. I thought I might be out of gas (btw, how much gas is there if its at the top of the red section? I'm parked on my driveway thats uphill) so I added about 2 liters and nothing, no fuel at all.

I'm thinking its a fuel pump but i'm not sure. Is there anyway to check if either on is not working?

Everything else is done, the car is ready for the road if I can ever get it started!!!

when you turn the key it should prime the system, listen for the pumps going. Otherwise you might need to put more then 2L in it to check...try like 10, especially if it's uphill

OK, I put in more gas and now the gauge reads 1/2 tank. I tried it and it still wont start. I checked the fuel lines and there was a little bit of gas in the supply and return lines. I left the supply line off and tried starting it and no fuel came out while cranking. So it makes me think its a fuel pump (unless you can kill a fuel pump relay in under a hour of running time!).

Is there anyway to benchtest a fuel pump?

One thing I did notice was that everytime I turned the key to start it the speedometer jumps up to like 60km/hr then falls back down, anything to this or is it just a 240 quirk?

Is there anyone that might be around Cranston that can have a look at it with me? I dont want to start putting in pumps if it doesnt need it.

'89 245?
LH2.4? What color is the label on the ECU? Pink or brown by chance? Those early LH2.4 ECUs seem to kill the fuel pump relay ground circuit with the regularity of the rising sun. Others have dead 02 circuits or injector drivers when they get older and crustier.

If it is just the relay circuit on the ECU, but the ECU works fine if you jumper the pumps, as a hack you could use a k-jet relay and still retain the shutoff feature when the engine stops.

Or just cough up like $50 for a rebuilt or white label LH2.4 ECU.

Check also te 25A main LH fuse by the battery and that associated wiring. not as bad by '89, but it happens.

I often drill the relay cover and tie it away from the heater on 240s and add lots of dielectric grease to the main fuse/battery connection. You might consider converting to the often more reliable separate LH2.0 style 2-relay system instead of the dual relay that bakes itself to nothing. The early black k-jet relays are pretty long lived like the LH2.0 ones too, though the wiring harnesses are skeeeetch on most of those cars by now.

Thanks James. Now the problem is I have no idea how to jump out pumps and play with relays and stuff like that. I am not an electrical man.

I pulled the pump out and it works (I got it working after our phone conv Matt). If I just put straight power to it, fuel shoots out the supply line at the engine, so the fuel filter isnt plugged. Also when I first put the pump back in and cranked it fuel came out the supply line, I hooked up the line again and no fuel came out, pulled the line off again and still no fuel...

Still no start.

Then I thought I would check for spark just to see if that might be a problem too. I just put a screwdriver in the plug wire and laid it on the valve cover, no spark while cranking.

So now I have no fuel and no spark, anyone have any idea's? I'm at my wits end with this thing and have already thought of taking all my parts off and sending it to the junkyard!!!
Please please please help!

Thanks

A dead crank angle sensor on an LH2.4 car will leave everything dead in the water. Pumps, ECU, fuel, spark and so on. Check that the wiring isn't rubbed off on the dipstick tube and possibly replace the sensor. That, short of something seriously fundamentally wrong with the car, is usually the most common cause of no fuel + no spark on an LH2.4 car. I use a pretty long extension to change those on 240s. It lives on the back of the motor atop the bellhousing andbehind the head.

http://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Engin ... ion_Sensor

You should get .2-.3 volts at least while cranking the engine over with the sensor. Crank angle sensors usually give up at ~200K a lot. My beater 245 with 335K had had it replaced at 280K, though it wasn't a very leaky car (serviced by MVP before I bought it) and always had a splash pan.

LH2.4 cars don't bounce the tach as much while cranking as k-jet and earlier LH ones, but you should hopefully see it bounce a little if your coil is discharging.

You can jump fuses 4 and 6 to get the pumps going on a later model LH 240. Still, the dual relay supplies power to the pumps, AMM, injectors and 02 sensor IIRC, so if the relay is dead enough, you jumpering the pumps may not actually get the car to run like my old k-jet non-ECU car does. Check also the 25A 740 style main fuse by the battery and its connection if you have that (my 92 didn't I don't think thank god). It supplies power to the fuel pump relay, which in roundabout ways supplies power to the fuel pump fuses, O2 sensor, ECU and basically all the important LH things.

Well, looks like I will be checking the sensor then. Of course it has to be hard to get to, seems like the story of my life right now.

Damn, James, you're better than a Haynes manual.

I looked at the plug on the way to church this morning and sure enough, the shielding is all cracked and looking all brittle. So i'm guessing this is the problem.

Anyone know what Volvo charges for that thing?

too much it is volvo after all might havta call around a bit tomorrow.

I have a spare, but it'd probably take too long to get to you.

$50-70 is usually what they run.

If you wiggle it a bit can you get the car to start? Sometimes I can. Sometimes it is too shorted or the sensor itself is too cooked and oil soaked and really dead.


One would hope. I dunno what I did with my Haynes book of lies. I think it is more useful to spacer the jackstands than fix the car.

Not meant as an insult... I actually really like my Haynes manuals. Haven't found them to be too unreliable at all!

I'm not insulted in the least. They have gotten better too I think. The haynes for 140/early 240s is pretty terrible. The one Adrian had for a late 240 actually had a really cool picture of the cylinder head layout and wiring diagram for the dist hall sensor.

AAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGGG!!

Ok, I replaced the crank sensor. The old one was brittle and had the inner wires showing and covered in oil. I put the new one in (it may have gotten alittle dirt on it but not much) and tried to turn it over. I still have no spark and no fuel.

is my ECU dead? I have no idea whats wrong and could use some more help. I hate this car right now!

The ecu being dead does not usually make for no spark. Anyone got a spare LH2.4 N/A ECU he can try just for the heck of it though?


How does the main fuse by the battery look? Triple check it and the battery connection for that line to that fuse (corrodes badly on some cars). Fuel pump relay clicking when you turn the key on and so forth? I know you said it was new, but you should get a definite click as you sit in the passenger seat, hold the relay in your hand and turn the key to "on" with the other. Do the pumps prime like andy mentions? The Lh2.4 ECU has a timer circuit to prime the pumps, but uses the same fuel pump relay as an LH2.2 car.

Adrian's car messed up the diode in the relay due to a cruddy connection at the battery/main fuse that resulted in load being cycled on/off the relay in a strange way and caused the relay to sort of "buzz" once or twice after turning the key on. The relay in his car was dated december '06.

I think LH-jet 240s see me coming and decide to kill the main fuse circuit right after I drive them. It is almost second nature to have the battery terminal spray and a brush in hand right after the relay sorta buzzes or clicks on/off rapidly like it doesn't have reliable power.

Anyway, I hope you get to the bottom of all this...it is a bummer to be stuck in the cold.