i guess thats a dumb question, of course you have.

thinking about this. i have all the parts from my 83 sitting in my garage, along with a parts car out in the bush. im considering doing it to my wagon, which runs strong.
i have a stock .40? garrett t3 in good condition on a pre-90 mani, i can use all the required parts from the 83, such as intercooler, exhaust, oil cooler etc. as im probably going to gradually build it from the ground up later.

so i could use some advise, oil lines? weld a bung or tap out block? what do i need to grab from another 2.2 car. ecu etc?

i just know its possible to really f this up, and id like some local help to make sure it all goes well, knowing that we have so many gurus on this site.

thanks guys.

guess i should add that im not looking for a power number, just want to do it for experiances sake, and to give the dd a little more power , even if it only runs like 10psi on the safer side.

Without all the proper mods, you'll be lucky to get 5psi. Read the bazillions of posts on turbobricks for the various ways to go about +t'ing your car. It's not THAT hard, but there is a fair list of parts to build up, and it's not that EASY to do a decent job.

Drill and tap the block, or weld a drain tube on. Either way requires drilling the block, of which there are a number of approaches as well. quick and dirty, or someone properly, up to you.

Do some reading at turbobricks, get the list of parts and I'm sure you can get some help when it comes time to do the work!

ok thanks, i did a bit of reading on there already, just seeing if there was anyone around here that could lend a hand when things inevitably go wrong... lol the problem with tb is there are a million different ways, i just want the best and simplest method to do it, thats where im a little confused.


What i have so far

-Turbo, garett .40 t3, tight shaft
-pre 90 mani (anyone got a 90+ t3?)
-oil cooler with lines
-83 240 IC with lines
-242 turbo exh (this should fit?)
-t cam - should upgrade, suggestions?
-boost guage
-oil pres w/ sender
-Tach

what i know i need

-injectors (browntops? saab 431s? greentops?)
-welded bung (easier for me, im going to do this w/o pulling the motor)
-feed and return lines


anything else?

like i said i have 2 83 turbos for parts, what else can i use from them? what i have currently is all from them.

I'm surprised more haven't chimed in on this one already. There are at least 3 people in Calgary that have done this and I'm sure will steer you in the right direction. Athal was first up - follow the Tbrix thread and you should be on your way to +T fun. I, of course, know nothing about things that are not carb'ed.

By the way, a good read on the turbo subject is Corky Bell's Maximum Boost.

I love that book....gives me too many crazy ideas though

There's definitely people around when things go wrong. Don't worry about that.

I've been wrong already once this week, so I don't know that I want to say that nobody around here has +t'd their 240, though I think that's the case.

I'm not familiar with your car, and the details aren't in your sig or in your profile, so I can't make a good comment on what you're trying to do. I assume it's an '86+ since you're talking about getting parts from "another" 2.2 car.

From what I understand, you swap the computers from a turbo 740, swap the injectors from a turbo 740, add the injector resistor pack from the turbo 740, and you're ready for boost. Since you've apparently got a B230F, going to FT involves drilling out the existing turbo drain bung, adding an oil feed, and swapping a bunch of parts over from a turbo 240.

Not rocket science, but still it would be best to get advise from someone who's actually done it. Athal has swapped a complete harness, fuel system, & engine from a 740 into a K-jet 240, and I'm sure he's not eager to repeat the experience, while Greg & I have both swapped K-jet turbo engines, harnesses, & fuel systems into cars at least one generation older than they came out of. In none of these cases has it been as "plug and play" as yours likely will be, but in all of our cases we had resigned ourselves to doing a "complete" swap, so we didn't have to worry about the compatability between one car and another, like you do.

Example: there might be an issue with the distributor. When installing a block mounted distributor in my 740 turbo, I was told that only a certain year of 240 would work. Why that is, I don't know, and what year that is I don't really remember. I can pull the dizzy out of my car and find the part number if you need. The upshot is that the dizzy in your car might work, and it might not. Someone who's +t'd their car would be able to tell you.

If you're talking about browntops or CFIs, you might want to get the thing running properly stock... stage 0. Take it up from there. Don't try to complicate matters by adding a bunch of parts that aren't designed to bolt on and try to make things work.

ok thanks,

its an 87 wagon, so the computers, injectors and the resistor pack. check.
ill grab those parts from pyp, i want it to be as plug and play as possible, a weekend sort of thing, if that makes any sense or is even possible. anyways, ill be back with more questions later obviously.

thanks

alex

also AMM, I've got a spare if you need it. you'll have to extend your existing amm wires to reach the new amm location.

AMMs are the same, I think.

ok, i was thinking that would need to happen, ill just grab the whole 740 intake and put a cone filter on it. where are the computers located exactly? the one is on the fenderwell? and the other inside? ive never owned a 740 or really studied one closely... any clues?

ECU is behind the panel next to the front passengers right foot.

ICU is above the brake pedal area.

You have it easy. I'm going to +T my B23E. But K-Jet is a huge pain. I'm just going to MS right off the bat.

If I could have got a 242 with LH2.2 I probably would have. The +T on a 2.2 seems very simple compared to what I'm taking on. Some pictures of today's beginning progress in the show room on turbobricks.

Good luck with it. Doesn't seem like much mechanical butchering to do in your swap. You'll be OK.

Jordan

looks like we are both +ting 500,000+ km bricks, the best of luck to you pal.

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/forum/v ... php?t=1500

so is it really necessary to use the water lines on the turbo?

If it is a T3, IMO, no. I have run and my friend Eric ran a water cooled T3 sans water on a track car with no ill effects. Granted, I have absolutely no idea what would happen on a watercooled garrett if you drove it like most soccer moms in portland drive turbo cars...uphill home really quick and then shut them off with the glorious penzoil that the dealer puts in em, but likely nothing good I'd imagine. I'm willing to trade a little cool-down time and using decent oil for not putting all that super hot water into the cooling system, but my opinions are my opinions.

Mitsus have to use the water.

In simple terms, you need most of the mechanical parts from a K-jet 240TIC, and most of the electrical parts from a 740T and LH2.2 240.

I put LH2.2 on my 80 DL in 24 hours straight with no sleep and have had absolutely no issues and it pins out like a factory 88 240 except for the fuel pump relay and one wire that is cabin switched power on the 4-pin connector that runs across the dash on an LH2.2 240. My car is N/A, but it uses a turbo ECU brainbox and 850T injectors without resistors. I'm using bosch breakerless igntion and a stock updated 240 LH2.2 engine harness. With a simple plug-in wiring extension, I should be able to move the AMM connector when the time comes.

Electrically, going LH2.2 turbo on the fuel side of an 86+ 240 is cake. If you are using EZK, you need to make sure the ignition distrubutor has the last 3 numbers ending in "001." The earlier dist (even with the bosch instead of chrysler) cap has the gap and gate spacing inverted from the later ones and the tone wheel is just plain dimensionally different.

I personally, would just use breakerless ignition with LH2.2, but I think knock sensors as used on volvos, like water cooled turbos, are a waste of time and space. That, and I HATE extricating all that crap from the under-dash of an 80s 740 to make the EZK work and to make a decent harness that actually fits a 240 correctly. Making that, and making it so a a rational person can trouble shoot the harness takes a LOT of time.

For Jordan or anyone with an old 77-82 N/A K-jet 240, here is what I did to mine:
-3-bar fuel rail on EFI manifold with no cold start injector boss from an 88 240 to keep it clean.
-Lines and fittings of my making to go to k-jet fuel filter pump etc from an 81 240T to go to the EFI rail. Oil filter service had everything I needed.
-Firewall panel from an 88 240 sans weight with plugs for A/C and different climate control line than my 80 had originally. This was the sucky one to swap just due to access...if you spent longer than 24 hours on the swap, your back will thank you.
-Throttle cable from any EFI 240.
-007 AMM from any LH2.2 4cyl car...85-88 everything basically and 89 turbos. 006 is the 3" version on the 88+ V6 cars. Don't forget the strut bracket to hold it still so it doesn't shake!
-Air intake hose from an 88 240....can come from any EFI 240.
-Injectors from an 88 240 as well as ECU.
-Ignition switch connector and 4-pin connector across the dash from an 88 240. The red-black is ignition switched +12V and turns on 1/2 of the LH2.2 relay that turns on the ECU and injectors ETC. The fat red/yellow runs from the relay to power the fusebox and pumps. The red wire raises the idle to ~900rpm with the A/C on...also useful for lumpier cams, especially on B21FTs. The K-jet idle speed is 900rpm, as is the K adn H-cam B23Es. 85-86 cars have a gray wire in the 4-pin cabing harness interface connector that I don't know the function of...all I know is 88s don't have it and the car runs fine without it.
-K-jet fuel pump relay to power the pumps....LH relay powers everything but the pumps. Kind of a dirty setup to have 2 relays to fail, but at the same time, I have had zero issues.
-New updated 88 240 harness with all gromets and brackets installed correctly.
-#500 idle motor and bracket and hoses from an 88 240.
-Bracket for the EFI ECU from an 88 240 donor.
-Modified breather hoses to go from valvecover to EFI 240 style flame trap and re-enter the air intake after the AMM (AMMs don't care for oil, heat, or vibration).
- OE Bosch breakerless ignition. A-cam '83 B23E ignition dist with one wire tucked into the stock LH2.2 engine harness from the coil - to the connector under the intake manifold for the RPM signal for the LH-jet.
-3-wire 02 sensor. Optional of course, but nice for fuel econ and cold running.

It makes a nice smooth running fuss free runner that can run well with a A, D, K or H-cam with the right distributor. Granted, it is also considerably faster and more efficient than the B21 lump with K-jet. The rev limitier really sucks is the biggest downside, and ultimately the MAF will be unwelcome on something nastier than my fuss free DD. Fuel econ has been a nice solid 20-31mpg with a ~24-25 average city/highway.