Hey guru's,

who knows the stud thread on my 940? and also how they attach to the hub? I want to run my 17s and need longer studs for the front.

M12x1.75, I think, and I believe they are splined into the hub like on the 240. Don't know if the same Ford studs will work, but probably. I've got a set if you want to have a look at them. The Ford studs are imperial threads, though - same as the 240 and older.

Found this in the brickboard FAQ

"Remove the wheel. Remove the old wheel stud by just giving it a good whack straight in with a hammer. If it doesn't extend far enough through the rotor then you will have to remove the caliper and rotor.Then put the new stud in though the hole in the back. It should come through far enough to place a nut on; tighten until the new stud seats itself. You may need a spacer to get it fully seated. Remove nut and replace the wheel. If you have an abs sensor wheel (looks like a gear with flat cogs) on the front hub you will have to grind one side of the new stud's flange to get it in. You'll have to use a grinding wheel. This wheel is stamped steel and you would destroy it if you try to remove. Then put a nut on the stud and crank on it till the stud seats itself into the hub. You won't have the same problem with the rear since the abs sensor is in the differential."

Does that sound right? Can I just whack out the splined studs without removing the hub?

You betcha red rider. Make sure its a good hit

Sure, but if you're trying to put these Ford studs back in your hubs, you'll need to remove them from the car anyway.

why would i need to remove them for the ford studs, and not the volvo ones?
I'd prefer not to have different threads, front to back axle, if I can avoid it. Especially since I don't need to change the back ones.
I guess the question is can I get longer metric studs?

The Ford studs are 3" long and would be harder to thread in place when you do try to reinstall them...

AAAaand...

You've got to weld the Ford studs in place, since they aren't actually Volvo studs (splines are different).

You could try Kaplhenke for longer metric studs, but Jonathan at RSI had troubles with Ben's studs and got zero help from him.

Longer metric studs with all the right dimensions (spline, shank etc) may be hard to find. Napa should have a stud catalogue that may be some use. When bashing out the studs, may I suggest you place a sacrificial nut on the stud to give the BFH more area to hit and in case you ever want to reuse them (I never reuse them, but like the extra area when I'm being a savage).

Just dropped by napa (while I was out registering my bike and getting a new license, w00t!), and the closest metric they had in the book was only about 5mm longer and the spline was 0.5mm smaller. So it would fit, but be a bit loose, and still not long enough.

I'm guessing the ford ones are the closest you guys were able to find, and probably looked at all the options anyway.

I'm going to to a bit more research for direct fit stuff, then maybe give up. I don't want to remove the hubs, I don't want to weld studs, and I don't want the studs sticking out like they do on the 242.

Life will be simpler if I sell the wheels, tires and spacers, and buy new tires for the direct fit 16" wheels.

I found some ones from a speed shop in the UK that look like they might work (spline 0.2mm smaller), about 1/2" longer. Think I'll take a chance and order 10...