Hey Eric, welcome to CVC, you have great taste in cars. I had a 2002 V70 AWD and would love an R, just not the cost of keeping it on the road. The 1800 is on the list of wants too just not in the near future, but who knows... Sorry I can't help with your problem, just wanted to say hi and welcome.

My old B18 shared compression between 2 and 3 due to a warped head - it didn't blow white smoke or do anything else weird. I rebuilt the head recently with the goal of freeing up the exhaust and intake flow and that's about all I have to do for this engine rebuild (there is a new HP B20 in the 122). I'd do a leak down as that will give you more information than a compression test can.

Where are you located?

Check for an Intake leak before hand.

How's it going, Old and New? I'm in the southwest too (Southland-ish and Elbow-ish), and though I don't know much about D-jet nor am I dripping with free time, I'm willing to spend a bit of time helping out. Of course, it's getting a bit late for you to be driving that car around... I've got enough tools that we can probably figure a few things out, so having you visit my garage would probably be best.

Then there's likely nothing fixable per se. You might have some varnished up injectors, and those can be sent to *Qualified* D-Jet service people- send 'em to an average injector place and they will melt them, as they take less current than modern injectors. But, you probably won't see a gain in power at all.
The compression difference is just outside what's acceptable, but I'd be willing to bet if you took an average of the b20's on the road in thier heyday in the late 70's that would be average.
Coolant is very unlikely to leak into both 1 & 4. D-jet initial cold running with a D cam tends to be ragged, but if it gets unusually bad, then you have a problem

Ian- 10 years on a $400 D-jet car starting with 173K miles in 1999. Still drive it to work every day.

I think I still have my old djet computer, harness and maybe 8 injectors. If you would like me to look for them let me know

Track car.

A wonderful idea.

having a door that wasn't set right being a reason to build a track car sounds like the sort of twisted logic that results in unfinished projects in garages...the door is adjustable in a couple of points and it is fairly straight forward.

First of all, remove the strike from the pillar. That way the door can close without getting aligned by the strike. It's that two railed thingy. Then set the hinges (pain) so that the door aligns with the hole. They usually don't need to be shimmed, but sometimes a small shim (available at a body shop supply store) needs to be inserted between the hinge and the body. The put the strike back in and align it so the track is not dragging on the door part. It should just close - not lift up or drag. This takes some time to get right. About an afternoon worth of work.

Conversely, take it back to the bodyshop that did the work and tell them to set the damn doors right.