Hi, here’s one for you experts – I’m stuck!

I’ve been taking apart the suspension on my 122 wagon to replace the bushings. No-surprise, one bolt was stuck, so I cut it off, and after getting ahold of a portable oxy-acetylene setup, I did some heatin’ and beatin’. No-luck. Then I did something I thought was pretty clever, and put two 18” pieces of 1-inch hose over the sleeve the bolt is stuck in. I clamped the hoses on, and raised them vertically, so I could fill them with oil. I let the oil seep in for 5 days, and tonight had at that bolt again with the sledge. Nothing. %&*@!!*&!!

Use different oil? Apply more heat? Anybody got a press of some kind??

Thanks – the blue Volvo and me.

Heat and burn the rubber out (maybe). Or possibly an air hammer?

Hi - sorry but I have been away from the computer for a few days.

Yes, heat may still be part of the solution, but the bolts are cut off flush - rubbers are long-gone. I am going to borrow an air-hammer, and in the meantime, I am up to my neck in the rear suspension - just-about all gone now. I hope I have all of the right bushings!

Jimbo

Oh, and thanks.

J

I assume that the bolt is rusted into the bushing sleeve.
These are a real pain, heat works and I have had the most success heating the bolt then applying a good quality penitrating oil while the bolt is still hot (NOT red hot but good and warm). cycle this method a few times and then let it sit for an hour or so well saturated with penitrating oil. Then either a clamp press or a hammer/impact gun.

There are some very good penitrating oils out there, one of the best for this problem is GM heat riser solvent GM 1052627 (available at most GM dealers)

That would make sense, since they're the most likely things on the planet to freeze up! Nothing says "quality" about a penetrating oil like "heat riser solvent" (edit- oops, just woke up)

LOL at this point the younger members are saying 'what the hell is a heat riser?"
But yes the 318, 360 Chrysler heat risers would sieze solid and this magic stuff you get they working in no time

I'll bite...What the hell is a heat riser???

GM and Chrysler V8s installed a temperature activated flapper valve in the right hand exhaust manifold. When the engine was cold the valve would be closed and force exhaust through a passage in the intake manifold by the carburetor base to heat the carb and intake up. As the engine warmed up the valve would open allowing exhaust gases to pass through the right hand exhaust manifold. The Chysler system used a bimetal spring on the heat riser valve to control the opening rate, but this valve was also integrated into the manifold itself (unlike the GM version which was a seperate unit that bolted to the manifold) the Chrysler design was famous for siezing stuck which greatly reduced performance and drivability.
You can see the Heat riser in the lower manifold

International Harvester, too.

Missed my point completely...

No I didn't, in my mind you are a youngster

Hi, and thanks, guys. I'm looking forward to meeting you in person.

1) I've got a friend in Red Deer who has offered a gallon (!) of some kind of penetrating-oil, which is probably pretty good, as he gets it from the gas-plant he works at. I'm gonna wait until I get that, as I want to use the hose-adapter technique (above) to soak that oil in, otherwise it just drips-off the vertical surfaces, doesn't seem that effective, and seems like a big waste. I just used a thin oil last-time.

2) I was shy to use (much) heat after soaking in the oil the first time, as I figured getting it red-hot would just burn-off all of the oil, and maybe gum things up worse, but I must admit to never having used acetelyne before (plus, it is hard to get my imagination into those tiny cracks...). Will-do though, if the air-hammer etc... do not work.

3) What I hear loud and clear is that I should be able to get that bolt out without having to remove the cross-member. I'd love to have it out and get it sandblasted (should have thought of that when the engine was out), but I see that to do so would entail the removal of more bolts that are probably seized, and now I'd have to lift the engine to get it back underneath. Speaking of which....

4) I have had to cut-off about half of the bolts holding-on the rear trailing-arms etc... (I don't know all the names) using a sawzall, and the final two, I might have to cut off the brackets, then weld them back on. I've got some welding to do anyway, as I managed to cut part-way through not one, but two of the brackets when I thought I was cutting the bolts.... I haven't been able to look at the car for two days, as it was getting just too frustrating, but I found someone who has a welder, so feel a little more like getting back at it. I've got the whole rear axle and diff out, so I can at least get that blasted and painted-up, which will be a bonus I had not planned on.

5) As for the "heat-riser" technique, that reminds me of a blast-furnace, which also pre-heats the air by circulating it around the furnace before it is blasted into it, with great results, and...

6) As an aside, I have a friend who has built a bimetal valve (I think) for his helicopter which allows the water/coolant to circulate through the engine until is is warm-enough to open the thermostat. Saves wear-and tear on the #4 cylinder, which (he says) is usually the worst when they come-apart. By coincidence, it will fit on a 122; a neet little gadget, and I intend to get one off of him, as I think he is at the stage of having had castings made (he makes add-ons for helicopters...). I'll post it if he has more - he said the cost would only be about 20 bucks.

That's all for now,

Jimbo

Remember that penetrating oil works by capilary action, no need to use your hose technique, the oil will get into the space all on its own as long as you keep the area wet

As this is the LCA for the front suspension, if it is rusted in, it is now likely part of the cross member. There is no rubber in that position. If it can't be removed, take off the cross member and take it somewhere with a press. That will get it out. All the bashing and hammering are just a waste of time. Don't misplace the shims when you remove the cross member.