Wow - had some serious momentum killed waiting for parts. Remember to measure everything when you build an engine. The lifters that I bought from FCP were 42 thou small...they sent me two sets and they were all wrong (don't buy MTC brand). Third try was a charm and they got it right. So with a few house projects and building a trailer frame, I'm back on the horse.
Here we go...Piston rings installed and everything perfectly clean, I start with some fresh oil in a container, then dip the pistons and fill them with oil. It's also useful for lubricating various O-rings and things while you assemble.

The rod bearings need to be prepared (well, they don't really, but I always do it) - take a bit of newspaper and turn the bearing shells from this:

To this:

Now with the bearings snapped into the big ends, the pistons can be installed.
Then the pistons go in the holes two at a time (1-4 then 2-3) - note the nylon tube that covers the bolts while the rods and pistons are installed.

I like this style of ring compressor - save the band type for your lawnmower. Tap the piston with the handle of a hammer.

If it doesn't go in with just a tap, stop, look and don't use more force - you've probably popped a ring out of the compressor.
Once the piston and rod assembly is in the hole, you'll push it down until you can flip the engine and grab the rod and pull it onto the crank. Then add a dollop of assembly lube and put the cap on (I write the numbers on with a sharpie as it makes the numbers easier to see).

The bottom end is now torqued to spec and after I double check the torque settings I mark the heads of the bolts to remind me what is torqued and what needs tightening.

Now I install the cam - here's a nice reproduction of a "C" grind.

Coat the lobes with high pressure moly grease - the bearings get assembly lube when installed. No pics of it installed as I only have the two hands!

The oil pump drive is installed after the cam goes in as per the manual. I've found that the right degree (approx 35) for the distributor drive is acheived when the drive dog is 90 degrees to the main line of the engine when viewed from below. Once installed, the oil pump gets installed, then it's on with the water pump (level with the block) and the rear main seal. Then in it should look like this once the head is installed and torqued to spec.


I just have to adjust the valves and put the timing cover on (missing the woodruff key for the crank...I now have 24 if anyone needs one). Then it's off to John Paulsen for one of his cars.