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 Post subject: Re: B18 Engine Rebuild
PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:08 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:19 pm
Posts: 3126
Location: Lethbridge, AB
Pylon wrote:
122_Canuck wrote:
Get this...the replacement lifters I bought are .800" - too bad the lifter bores are .843" (mic'ed). That's not going to work. Maybe they sent me B16 lifters.


#-o I guess that would mean I'm not coming to get it Friday then?


No need - can't get a response out of FCP as to what lifter they've sold me and I don't think IPD can get them here fast enough. So we're back in a holding pattern. I just wonder what car takes solid lifters this size. I've checked with other pushrod people and the B16 lifters are larger not smaller than the B18/B20 ones.

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 Post subject: Re: B18 Engine Rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 12:40 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:19 pm
Posts: 3126
Location: Lethbridge, AB
Well, some engines just don't want to be built...Greg came over and we got the cam plug installed and the oil galleries sealed off. I was working on ringing the pistons when on the third piston the top compression ring snapped. I always stretch the rings just enough to get them over the piston crown and no more. Anyway, the ring has a small imperfection in the metal (nodule) - that I think let go and the ring did not break in half...one piece is larger than the other.

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I've sent an email to Deves to see if they will send me a ring. I don't want to buy an entire set for $75 when I need a single ring.

Then we dropped in the crank and bagged it up - we're done for a while. :x

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 Post subject: Re: B18 Engine Rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 1:40 am 
Canadian Tire Bolt ons

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:36 am
Posts: 29
Location: Portland, OR
Looking good as always, Craig.

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 Post subject: Re: B18 Engine Rebuild
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:25 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:19 pm
Posts: 3126
Location: Lethbridge, AB
Wow - had some serious momentum killed waiting for parts. Remember to measure everything when you build an engine. The lifters that I bought from FCP were 42 thou small...they sent me two sets and they were all wrong (don't buy MTC brand). Third try was a charm and they got it right. So with a few house projects and building a trailer frame, I'm back on the horse.

Here we go...Piston rings installed and everything perfectly clean, I start with some fresh oil in a container, then dip the pistons and fill them with oil. It's also useful for lubricating various O-rings and things while you assemble.

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The rod bearings need to be prepared (well, they don't really, but I always do it) - take a bit of newspaper and turn the bearing shells from this:

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To this:

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Now with the bearings snapped into the big ends, the pistons can be installed.

Then the pistons go in the holes two at a time (1-4 then 2-3) - note the nylon tube that covers the bolts while the rods and pistons are installed.

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I like this style of ring compressor - save the band type for your lawnmower. Tap the piston with the handle of a hammer.

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If it doesn't go in with just a tap, stop, look and don't use more force - you've probably popped a ring out of the compressor.

Once the piston and rod assembly is in the hole, you'll push it down until you can flip the engine and grab the rod and pull it onto the crank. Then add a dollop of assembly lube and put the cap on (I write the numbers on with a sharpie as it makes the numbers easier to see).

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The bottom end is now torqued to spec and after I double check the torque settings I mark the heads of the bolts to remind me what is torqued and what needs tightening.

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Now I install the cam - here's a nice reproduction of a "C" grind.

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Coat the lobes with high pressure moly grease - the bearings get assembly lube when installed. No pics of it installed as I only have the two hands!

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The oil pump drive is installed after the cam goes in as per the manual. I've found that the right degree (approx 35) for the distributor drive is acheived when the drive dog is 90 degrees to the main line of the engine when viewed from below. Once installed, the oil pump gets installed, then it's on with the water pump (level with the block) and the rear main seal. Then in it should look like this once the head is installed and torqued to spec.

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I just have to adjust the valves and put the timing cover on (missing the woodruff key for the crank...I now have 24 if anyone needs one). Then it's off to John Paulsen for one of his cars.

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 Post subject: Re: B18 Engine Rebuild
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:44 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:14 pm
Posts: 1875
Location: Missing my garage in Sunnyside
=D>
Can you rebuild a B230FT for me like that for the weekend? K thanks!

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 Post subject: Re: B18 Engine Rebuild
PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 4:06 pm 
Somehow completely sideways in 4th

Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:43 am
Posts: 248
Location: Regina, SK
Read from beginning to end... I don't even have a B18 Volvo engine - but damn was that a good write up.

Thanks very much for taking the time to document that. I've got a Peugeot motor I'll be pulling apart, and eventually rebuilding so all your techniques were a great education.

I've stopped by one in a while after first finding the Bertone build - and while the site isn't very busy, there is such good info here. When I do find the time to check out posts I'm usually here for a LONG time. :D

Rabin


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