Let's get this done and get a few more options out there for 122 front brakes. I'm going to ask Matt or Dale to post up the pics of Dale's front brakes, I'm going to add the pics of my old 122's front brake conversion and one other that I've recently found.

What I'm NOT going to do is post a basic cookbook as will undoubtably be requested. I've seen all manner of silly things with people's brakes recently. I've seen front callipers fall off, brake hoses leak, no locking tabs (or other methods of mechanical locks). General laziness or sloppy mechanical skills are not to be applied to brakes. I'm going to suggest that we all refrain from adding this information for a couple of reasons:

1. You're messing with your brakes on a road car. If you can't do the calculations or understand how the braking system of your car works, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES MODIFY YOUR BRAKES. Please, please, please take the time to learn what you're doing before attempting ANY modifications on this critical system.

2. I can't stand the "bolt it on and think it might work" mentality that I find on many forums. If you won't be changing all of the brake lines, flex lines, and generally rebuilding things to exact specification, then don't mess with this stuff and continue with what you have.

Here's my version of the BBK for the 122. The basic idea that I went for in designing this stuff was to incorporate off the shelf parts like rotor hats to keep the costs down.
The adapters are currently for sale here for what seems like a lot of money to me...http://www.nordic-car-parts.com/product/big-brake-adapters-amazonp1800/

Parts needed:

Hats:
Wilwood HD Fixed Mount Brake Rotor Hats – 170-0208.

Wilwood Rotor Bolt Kit Number – 230-0233D

Rotor:
Wilwood Ultralight Straight Vane Rotors (11.75” OD, 0.81” Thick) – 160-0471

Caliper:
Wilwood Forged Billet Superlight Caliper (1.375” Piston) – 120-11128

Pads:
Wilwood Polymatrix Q – 15Q-6829K



Here's a close up of the bracket.



Bolted on to the caliper.



On the car.


Here you can see the brackets from the back side and the new brake lines.




THESE BRAKES DO NOT CLEAR 15" Wheels of any type I'm aware of at this point.

Here's a more stock option that I just found on the interwebz - I'm going to post the pictures and that's it - you'll have to look up the part numbers and figure out the rest of the details (like master cylinder sizing etc).

Toyota MR2 (if you recall, I suggested looking for light weight Japanese cars...someone did their homework).



Custom bracket - looks like a pretty simple affair. Note, these parts are welded not billet - I'd rather have them machined from billet. They are steel.





Mounted.



Single piston, sliding calliper keeps things compact. Note that pad options for MR2's are plentiful.




Ready to roll.

Here's what we did for Dale's car, which was totally custom. We started with a bracket, I believe I used 3/4" or 1" thick steel plate, and cut it to the shape necessary to mount a BFSL caliper with 1 3/8" pistons and sized for a 1 1/4" thick rotor.



From there we determined the offset needed to mount the rotor, which is an 11.75" diameter piece. We could easily have used 12.19" because neither will fit under a 15" wheel and both will fit under a 16" wheel.



Dale had always planned on using a 17" FWD wheel spec'd for an 850, and used 1800 front hubs to get the 5x108 bolt pattern. The spacer is built right into the hat, and extra-long ARP studs were tack welded to the hub to keep them in place. The right way to do this is to use Kaplhenke's extra-long 240 front studs, though one must keep in mind the added shoulder length and diameter.



The 5x108 bolt pattern was carried on in the rear end, where we used a 240 rear axle. I cut the brackets off and added the proper brackets, which were surgically removed from a 122 axle. The whole thing was assembled in a jig, which is kind of overkill.