This is not a concern any more since Craig is feeding the carbs directly from the pump. Seeing that he is using the stock pump which is designed for use with the SUs we were able to eliminate the FPR which could have been causing some problems.

In an installation where a return line is used a 3 port fuel pressure regulator is used (inlet, outlet & bypass) so that a set fuel pressure is maintained in the carb feed lines, any excess pressure flow will bypass at the regulator and return to the fuel tank. This is usually only needed if an electric or higher pressure pump is used. If set-up correctly the actual fuel lines feeding the carbs will be very short which minimizes any potential vapour locks, the rest of the fuel system will have a constant flow. An added benifit of this set-up is that the fuel pump is always flowing fuel and never in a "stalled" mode which can cause pump damage on some designs.

Thanks Ian. I understand this. I was asking Paul specifically because he keeps harping on it. It was of particular interest now that Craig has gone back to no FPR, assuming the FPR he was using had the ability to run a return line.

I got the carbs back in the mail today - so they will go in tonight and we'll see how it all runs.

Did Rhys comment on anything wrong?

The throttle shafts were a little loose and the decel valves were questioned. He soldered on some lovely copper plates over the decel valve holes and bead blased them. Luckily the throttle shafts were not warn, while the steel bushings were. So he rebushed them with his steel/teflon ones (there is NO slop at all) and one float was a smig higher (which means less fuel - not the problem). He liked the polshing job and figured that would do the trick. We'll see after work. Fingers crossed.

oh no. double fingers crossed! it'll nevar work!

break a leg

Raz, you so funny - Well gents, it's alive again and it's happy. I had to put the fuel filter in line (cutting and installing more AN parts), then I put in the new studs on the manifold (to replace the longer ones that were there for fuel line #3). New stainless studs for the intake and a final polish on the carbs. Took about 3 hours from start to finish.

It fired right up when the fuel hit it, stumbled around for a bit then once it started to warm up, and I was able to close off the chokes, I was actually able to tune it with ease. The mixture was a little lean out of the box, but about 3/4 of a turn and that's fine and the idle adjusts and comes back home to the same point every time. No dieseling on shut down and I don't have a FPR anywhere. I haven't driven it yet, so the jury is still out, but so far so good.

The e-fan came on earlier than normal and continued to run for a while once things were shut down. I think the belt needs to be snugged up a little, but that's about it. Tomorrow I'll check for leaks on the new fuel line and make sure that's fine. Then maybe I should put the grills in it.

I'm coming over.

YEE HAH!!!

First 40 miles and so far so good. The engine still diesels a bit, but other than that it is now fine. The e-fan runs pretty much non stop which I can't figure out - it didn't use to with the B18. I've got the grills installed and pretty much am down to cleaning things up a little. I've taken it up the steepest hills in town, and it pulls all the way as long as traffic gets out of my way. The brakes got the bedding in treatment with Greg and I running half way out to the dump (nice straight road) - up to 60 the haul it down hard to 10, repeat about 6 times. I think it does 60-0 faster than 0-60.

So for now we'll put this chapter of the cars life to rest. Fingers are still crossed for Portland.

I really hope so...

One can always dream, the way the car was before it was a bit of a toss up - I'm sure you recall the corner you almost missed.

Yes. Vividly...

This engine, those brakes...would've been a toss-up, for sure...

Well, maybe an old problem. I'm having the following problem - the car runs fine, then dies, then comes alive,then dies (repeat). The revs are litterally killed, then it comes right back. When this happened last time I thought it was a vapour lock, but now I'm thinking that was misdiagnosed and this sounds more like an ignition thing.

The car has the 1975 240 ignition box. Could a faulty battery cause this? The reason I ask is that right after all this happens, I get the amp light coming on. Could this be a faulty ignition box?

Of course this had to happen when I was taking Deirdre for her first trip in the car .