The guys that make that indicator panel want an additonal $90 to change the "Fan On" symbol to an OD light...may be looking for other options. I think I have a 240 cluster or two that may be sacrificed.

I get frightened when you talk like this.


Dang, I never knew they made this!


I don't hate this...


Pretty cool, actually, but the gauges have nothing to do with this. Neither does crash protection, apparently.


I do love this, wouldn't look right with your gauges but I know you're not looking to copy anyway.

This is neat:


You should build a manometer-based liquid speedo, using a pitot tube where the hood trim goes. Or not. With your brains and fearlessness, Craig, I'm surprised you're leaving the whole LCD gauge cluster thing to me. If the GT gets all funky I can almost see one of those coming on board.

Can you not find a matching speedo/odo for these gauges you've got? Or will it just be too much bother for calibration/etc? I'm curious about the GPS speedo, though - how quickly will it acquire a signal? I haven't used anything approaching a modern stand-alone GPS, but my iPhone GPS takes about 5 minutes some days before it'll start registering speed, and Dale's old-timey Palm-based one isn't much better.

We'll discuss the matter of style over a beer. Taste is a subjective thing and while I agree your car is lacking a certain cohesion, we might disagree on the direction it should go. It might not even be a topic that's open for conversation, being that you've been staring at it for several years and those wheels in your brain have been turning madly, so I know you've already got a plan. Mine's a pretty simple one.

Airspeed, yes! Ha ha

I'm pretty sure that will be a 6-12 beer conversation.

That's about all I can contribute- whatever the professor ends up doing will have people drooling, I know.

Funny, I could make that work (pitot tube) but I've got bad memories of a fly in a pitot tube. The LCD cluster would be cool, but much of this is being supplanted by these stepper motor gauges. There are some really cool designs out there and they are more flexible all the time.



Yup - almost ready to pull the trigger on this one. Just working out the details of the fuel gauge. Could go with their capacitance sensor (no float) or just stick with my VDO and calibrate based on ohm range. Just have to think if I want a low fuel light or not. Probably will go that way.

I'm mostly just trying to not do this again! The GPS speedo has a fast acquisition mode (it will be based on usage and storing a current satellite almanac - there is a separate power supply if I want this feature hooked up. If I do, then it is ready to go within 5 seconds of power on (as it is tracking satellites all the time). It would kill a battery over a month, but I could also trigger it on/off.

Other features of the GPS system are 0-60 times, 1/4 times, fastest speed recall, clock built in, OD and trip, elevation tracking, and a few others. The GPS with these guys (unlike the competition) is a 5 Hz unit, so it's plenty accurate enough. There is a remote powered antenna and two 12V in's and that's all there is to the system. Gets rid of the cable entirely for more clean under the hood.

I can live without it for a while, but will be pulling the trigger sooner rather than later as I get rolling on the fabrication. Still have a battery to relocate and a fuel tank to finish. Then it's on to wiring and dash stuff.



Yup, we'll hash this out later. I like the resto-mod idea, but will be keeping the brakes and other stuff I like. It just needs a rug to tie the room together. Once painted and with the interior stitched up, it will be close, but the wheels have to go. Now, I'm going to be plenty poor after this effort, so they will be around for a while, but what I'm thinking about is a set of these from Vintage Wheel Works. With custom backspacing they are about $1600 a set (a far cry from the $420 I've got in my current set).

I know where there is a set of those in white...

Really...Team III also does a set in custom offsets for a reasonable price.

I pulled the trigger on the dash warning lights. Found only a few options. Went with these as I just couldn't justify the $110 that the others wanted. From the UK.



I got turns, oil, battery, high beams, and a single green for OD. It will have to go without a label.

Progress of a sort was made this weekend. I'm working on some woodwork for a Jag in Calgary and it's vacuuming up time like crazy and limiting my time on my car (and pissing me off just a little). Anyway, just for fun, here's the result of some big smacks with a wooden slapper...panel fit on the trunk lid.







I can only move the panel around so much, but this is as good as I've ever seen these panels fit. Much of the rest of the work will be to correct the "hole" on this part of the car. Basically, the panel joins are ground at the factory and are not very consistent. Usually, you'd grind the edge of the trunk lid, weld it and fit it, but the contours of the body are so far out that there was no way to align the panel. So I'm fitting the panel as well as it can be fit, then will adjust the body to match the panel.

The fuel tank also needed a final fit. The edge lip got welded and fit to the hole in the trunk floor and then the tank body was adjusted (cut) to fit the end tanks. If I was to fill it to the brim, I'd get 52 liters. We'll see how close that is to reality later. There are still baffles and senders to install, so that will occupy some of that volume.

Those gaps look pretty good, even if you don't compare it to what it was. I'm sure you'll get those vertical gaps to play nice before too long. It's just your car, isn't it? I don't recall the gaps being that bad on either the GT or that '69 I just pulled apart. Do you figure the rear end was damaged at some point, or is there no evidence of that in the fenders? It just looks to me like it was pulled out of shape at some point.

The trunk was definitely hit and the rear bumper has got some really big beat marks on the inside. So damage was done. A lot of the 122's I've seen are like this in that area. I figure it's probably just the way they are - so I'll fix that 'cause I'm nuts

Quick update, got the dash indicator lights in last night, didn't like them. They looked cheap, so I'm making my own. Here's a few shots of a dash layout that I'm working on, comments welcome.

That gauge pod looks WAY better than what I had pictured... I'm still not crazy about them being out of the line of sight, but they're a lot closer to the LOS than I pictured. Moving them out of there also lets you make the main binnacle look GOOD.

What's the fifth small gauge going to be? Boost pressure? Oil Temp? Awesome-o-meter?

It's so going to be an awesome-o-meter - custom gauges...I could make this happen - I'm going to add a clock. The two smaller gauges in the pod will be oil pressure and water temp. Volts, fuel, clock in the pod. I'll start to mock up the foam after the weekend. See if I like the shape. Picked up the super-bridge LED's this AM.

Ninja edit:

Finally, some progress. Today I got the welding on the fuel tank done. Just had to get a few random projects out of the garage and get this car back on track for this summer. I had to modify the new fuel sender to fit in the tank and then I was able to get the baffles, sender well, and fuel pick-up welded up.









Just have to weld on the end tanks and the long join. Then this part of the restoration is done.

What size are those holes in the baffle? Were you going to do something to close them up, or is that it? I ask because I wonder if they're not too big, considering how quickly the engine will be drawing fuel from the tank. I think those holes might give the fuel plenty of time to flow away from the pickup sump.

If that's just meant to be a former to keep the tank square and steady, forget I said anything!

But the tank does look sexy! I hope you leave it nice & shiny and uncovered in the trunk.