I heard about this today from Matt. Looks like a ton of good work

You're an evil geenyus, you know that Coburn?

Edit - That plug is there from factory, it wasn't a Hahn thing, and it's not for a divided exit. I think you can figure out what it's for, and yes you're right - they don't open very well. Now... what the heck did I do to Houston's car when I ported the wastegate and added a bigger flapper? I don't recall. I'll have to dig out pictures from home, but I don't remember cutting out that plug so I could grind out the WG hole. Maybe I did, I don't remember.

Well, it's obviously there to machine the hole through to the exhaust inlet. When I played with that T3 that Jim brought over, the wastegate opens about the same amount. This might cause it to be affected by boost creep or overboosting (look who's been reading books or turbo's). Haven't found any credible reports...so I'll probably just make the insides look pretty (since I pulled it all apart already). A little smoothy can't hurt.

First, great work so far... Really admire your pace and attention to detail.

Second, I had the same concerns as you about the wastegate flapper for Hahn 20G that I ran and decided in the end to not touch it. I had zero issues with boost control or boost creep (which is what you would be concerned about in this instance). Ofcourse I was also used to attempting boost control on the mitsu TD04HL Family, and they are a lot more difficult to control once you start to turn up the boost (they like to spike, which is a different kind of problem, for boost control).

Maybe you already said it, but what actuator did you end up with, their standard 10psi or did you upgrade? What's your target boost? Keep in mind that this didn't like exceeding 20psig.

Good luck and keep up the great work...

I went with the standard 10 psi actuator - I figure I'll either have MS control the boost or make an MBC - I'm not targeting above 20 psi, I'm pretty sure I won't need to push that hard to make 300 at the wheels. Five-O 550 cc/hr injectors await by the way. If Clutchnet would get off their backside and make my clutch I'd be pretty happy.

More fabrication photos to follow after the weekend.

On with more important issues. While working on the 1990 240, I noticed that they put the fuel filter in with the pump. While not the best place for easy access, it was clean and tidy - I like that. This got me thinking that I could just adapt the 240 part to work - so off to the JY and I've got a pump and filter setup. I'm thinking of upgrading the pump to a Bosch 044 and keeping the fuel filter (it's massive and available). That should be more than I need.


I'm wondering if I should put a pre-pump (lift pump) inline with my setup. I've got to route the lines up over the IRS and I'm unsure if the 044 will work this way as the loop in the line wouldn't allow the tank to gravity feed. Maybe I could use the old Bosch main pump to feed the 044. My only other idea is to mount the 240 pump filter arrangement so it can gravity feed out of the tank. Just tossing it around - thoughts?

Lift pump for sure. Low pressure high volume, not the stock main pump which can stall at 150 psi. Too much pressure from the lift pump will make noise from the main pump and may eventually destroy it. You need 4-5 psi and more flow than the main pump. You might need two lifters in parallel.

I figure something like this should do the trick. Not sure where I'm going to mount it.

I've been making progress...albeit slow. I've had to cut and reposition the brackets on the parts as the clearances were too loose and I didn't want to cause a stress crack from having the mounting tab bent. As usual, I'm worried about powder coat thickness we'll hope for the best and adjust the bushings as needed.

Anyway, here's what I've done.

The back plane (at least that's what I'm calling it) was cut and I added in support by creating a rather curvy "tube" out of 16 ga. There was no way anything straight was going to work properly or look cool.



It's TIG welded all the way around - fully boxed. Strong as heck.



The brackets that hold the lateral link were fabricated using 3/16" steel and TIG'ed in place.



Then to get the axle measurement, I mocked up the rear using the differential and the hub. No binding (mind you I'm two links short of a suspension at this point).




The axles worked out to be 3" shorter (which is good as I narrowed the rear 6" overall!). You can see the upper strut mount point on the upright. My current plan is to work out a pushrod system for an inboard mounted coil over.



I still have to fabricate the front crossmember and rework the arms and make adjusters. Should keep me out of trouble for a bit.

Did someone mention that what I'm doing is a but load of fabrication? Ya, I think it's been addressed on a few forums. So here's what I've been doing.

Quick trip up to Calgary to do a little machining - which I've done precious little of lately! Here's Matt with a little of my progress.



I had to make a few bushing holders - these are for the rear sub frame.



I need an adapter to get the T5 to the Whiteblock...so a huge piece of 1" thick 6061 (12" X 12") needed to get the centre bore sized to the bearing retainer on the T5. Starting with a little twist drill and then boring it out to the size I needed.

Here's the mid stage of the progress.





Then a clean pass and machining a 1/8" step to fit the 960 bell housing.





Here's the fit - not bad (I know that the bearing retainer is in backwards!).



Just 8 holes to drill and tap and I'm done. Some will wait until the engine is mocked up in case I need a few degrees of tilt. Still waiting on Clutchnet to build me a clutch and pressure plate (they sure had no problem accepting payment in March!). Many thanks to Matt for the help - not to mention stripping the spare whiteblock and cleaning it for me so I have a mock up engine. This is a long-distance group effort to build one of the coolest Volvo's ever.

Nice work!!

Just a few clean up bits of fun today and making a few decisions. I had my local paint boys make me up a spray bomb of a paint colour I'm considering for the car. I think the Volvo colour is a little dirty and needs to be more clean and a little more yellow.

I think it will set off the chrome a little better, so I first dinged out the stainless fender spear and polished it and then scuffed and squirted the fender (just the front half). Still have to put the turn signal light and bumper back on, but I think this is the colour.

Before/after stainless polish.





From the top - you can see the subtle difference.

Looks good, but I'll reserve my judgement until I see it under natural light. Man, I cannot wait to see this car come together!

Mmm, creamy!