Time for a quick update. I've been occupied with other projects for a few months and wasn't able to devote as much time to the real project. So nowt that we're somewhat clear of those for now, I'm back on my project. I've been working on getting the IRS bolted up so I can get the front of the car chopped off and maybe be done with mechanical work in 2014 .

I've run into a few problems. At first glance the 122 frame notch appears to be centralized in the fender opening.



But it's around 1" biased towards the front of the car...this caused the upper control arm (UCA) to hit the back of the frame when Matt and I finally got the sub-frame mounted and tacked in place. So I took a week off and made a few parts like bushing holders etc.







I then attacked the back of the car with my trusty sawsall and removed large sections of the trunk. It's just easier to start from a "clean slate" - the replacement rear frame rails are being tacked up this week and should be in stalled over the weekend. I actually cut the frame back further than is shown in these photos...but you get the idea. The entire section of frame that sits parallel to the ground was removed and will be replaced by 3" X 2" 3/16" wall steel tube with provision for a coil over. Then it will be recovered with sheet metal and finished. The idea is to create a rear frame that is able to handle all the associated loads that the IRS brings to the table instead of what Volvo had in mind which was a frame to handle your luggage.





There should be lots of room to still use the spare tire well...if it's about 2" shorter in length. My spare seems to fit just fine. That's a relief.



The rear seat/trunk closing panel was also removed instead of hacked to get access to back side areas that need welding and reinforcing. This needed to happen anyway as I've got a new parcel shelf that doesn't have enormous holes hacked into it for speakers.



That's it for now folks.

Holy moly! That's intense!

Probably won't fit under your brakes, but I thought they looked nice:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-tires-rims/calga ... nFlag=true

Hmmm, probably going with 17's (16's may not clear the brakes) and those are just a little too bling. For the price, it's not much more to have the offsets etc all done to my spec, which at this point is not the most expensive thing going on in this build.

It's been a while and I wouldn't want you to think I've been slacking. There's been a flurry of fabrication in the old garage in the past couple of weeks and I'm moving towards having the IRS installed in a couple of weeks (where have I heard that before ).

The subframe has gone in and out of the car numerous times and I was finally comfortable with the modifications to the rear structure that I was able to remove large parts of the car to get this done. You've seen what had to happen to the spare tire well...and here it is going back in last night.

A little welding along the seam (after I put in a filler strip) and it's now installed.



Spare tire just fits with the addition of the 2 X 3 - I've had to wrap the structural member around the tire well to join into the frame rail. All fabricated with 10 gauge steel.



Shrinking the radius on the well required some pie cutting and careful fitting.



Here we are tacked up and ready to weld.



And welded in place and ground...welded inside and out just to ensure strength and prevent pin holes.



On to suspension arms.

Suspension Arms 101: Not that I actually know what I'm doing.

The original subframe used eccentric adjusters to alter the toe and camber of the rear wheels. I didn't allow for this provision in my subframe as it's difficult to fabricate and I'd rather just complicate my life. So, I decided to go with adjustable suspension links in all positions (including traction bar). This will allow for complete control of the suspension adjustment within the stock geometry.

So we start with fabricating a very precise jig using the old arms as reference points.



Side registration - sides are clamped and this register picks up the busing and allows you to get the arm out of the jig post weld.



Cut and re-weld tube to make very tight fits to the arm brackets which will be reused instead of bending up new ones. The old ones are perfect and should save some fabrication time.



Grind off the old welds very carefully and then cut the old bars off...seamed tube - wasn't expecting that.



Bushing holders are then cleaned and blasted and fitted with 3/4-16 adjuster bolts. Bigger is better with suspensions as far as I'm concerned.



Careful fitting (this takes the time) before welding makes sure everything is going to come up roses.



All TIG'ed and ready to party.



Cut and thread the DOM structural tube...didn't take pictures. Then carefully prep the area for weld with a good weld prep zone and use a little emery on the tube to remove any contaminants - these welds have to be flawless.



And bang - done.



Each set of arms took a day to fabricate (about 4 hours - I have a job people).





All welded parts are allowed to cool very slowly (about 1 hour or so) in my sand pit.



The camber links are next.

First fill a few holes.





Build a long threaded sleeve. I would have used nuts...but I had the tap and more threads are better - actually this allowed for the taper that I wanted.



Tight fit into the tube.



Plug welds and pie cuts.



And done.



For the toe adjuster, I stubbed the end of the original ball joint link with a steel shaft and fit it into the end of the tube. Followed by a good root weld and a cap with the TIG and it's strong as hell. No pictures for some reason.



Here are all the links installed. I had to modify the frame to accommodate the poly bushings as the originals were used for fabrication and the poly adds about 60 thou of width. Total PITA, but it's done. Next time I'll remember to fabricate WITH THE PARTS I'M GOING TO RUN - rookie mistake .

Wow. Just wow.

Awesome, as usual, but...only adjusters on one end? Means you have to decouple the rod to adjust it...

Which is the best and easiest way to do it IMHO - no need to turn everything into a turn-buckle with RH and LH threads…finding a tap in Lethbridge that goes the right way was hard enough. You just have to pop the bolt out and give it a few turns, pretty simple. I also don't expect to be adjusting it all that often - once set, it isn't going anywhere.

When you're ready to install the subframe again, give me a call and I'll come down. I promise not to be in such a hurry to leave this time!

What are you doing this Saturday?

Errrr....uuummmmmm

But wasn't it fun?

No complaints here! It wasn't as productive in the garage as either Craig or I would have liked, but I had fun.

Meh, we got it in a leveled...wanting more would have been too much. If we lived next door to each other people would talk for sure and our wives would have to get used to being alone.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMqxNPsfN50&feature=player_detailpage[/youtube]