Update, hmm? Well let's see.
Got just about 4500 km on it now, all systems go. The forums and fanboys are identifying several early-production weaknesses which are causing me a little bit of angst, but I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope that either the problems are identified and corrected before they become MY problems, or that my car got lucky. Problems include failed turbos, failed clutches, and the everpresent awful My Ford Touch (powered by Microsoft). The clutch is the most disturbing - it seems like the combination slave cylinder / throw-out bearing fails, dumps oil all over the place, and kills the dual-disc clutch and dual-mass flywheel simultaneously. Being that they haven't built up a store of parts for the car yet, the delay for replacements can take a while as they have to steal them from the assembly line, and being that it's a "wear item" dealers are loathe to replace them under warranty. I'm hoping that if mine ever fails and if the dealer denies me, there will be a nice light steel single-mass flywheel and burly clutch on the market.
I have made a couple of "improvements" though. The first one was the rear motor mount, which is the only thing keeping the engine from rocking back and forth. The factory one is full of voids and is VERY soft & squishy, fine for an automatic but awful behind a turbo 6 speed. Any moderate acceleration across an intersection causes a lot of banging from underneath. I replaced it with another factory part, from - get this - a Focus Electric. It's much beefier and doesn't add a single vibration. It's fine, but I'm going to try some polymers to fill up the old mount with to see if it can be better without being too stiff. There are many options on the market but nothing as cheap as this test I’m about to perform (about $25 for a pound of Smooth-On polyurethane from a local propmaker). Rumour has it that the E-focus mount is about to become the factory-supplied mount on 2013.5 releases.
Here’s the old one (top) compared to the E-Focus one (bottom):
I was very excited to have bi-xenon projector headlights on this car, and with the auxillary halogen high beams I figured these lights would be spectacular. Umm…. Not really. The first time I clicked the high beams I actually asked Roberta “did they come on?” After looking into them and at them for a while, I discovered a few things. First of all, the bulbs in this car are 25W versus the typical 35W, for the reason that 25W bulbs don’t need washers or automatic aimers and 35W do. Next, the aiming spec for these is to put the cutoff parallel to the ground, so any light “above” the cutoff (as happens when the high beams kick in) will not hit the ground. Finally the halogen high beams were pointed WELL ABOVE the hot spot of the projector high beams, which we’ve already established barely skim the ground – the halogens were pointed at the trees!
So I hacked ‘em. One little drill hole in the back of the headlight housing to let me get a small socket in there and I wound the projectors up as high as they’d point. Then I pointed the whole assembly down so that the projectors were slightly below spec, which thankfully put the halogens bang on where I want them. Finally I installed Osram Ultra bulbs into the high beams – these are H7 bases with an H9 bulb, the H9 putting out 50% more output than an H7, with only 10 more watts of consumption.
Here are the low beams at spec:
The right high beam as delivered (halogen only):
And the right high beam after adjustment:
So at least the halogen touches the ground now, and with the low beam being pointed ever-so-slightly downward I have better light on low beam and MUCH better distance light.
The next thing I have to address are the brakes. From day 1 I have hated these things, but I hoped they would get better. They’re super SUPER grabby when the weather is cold or damp – I mean, you can’t even touch them. What’s worse is that there is no effort required to hammer on them, they’re light as a feather. Furthermore there’s a lot of travel in the pedal before it starts to grab and even more before it gets firm. It’s not squishy, really, but I suspect it’s the bevel designed into the seals that draws the pistons into the bores to “pull” the pads away from the rotors. That last little bit of fuel economy, you know… The last straw is the dust… oh, the dust. These things are about as bad as those Wilwood Polymatrix A pads originally on your car, Dale. After a week the wheels are COVERED, and there is slime all over the side of the car.
The biggest problem is that these are brand new calipers for the market, and nobody has made aftermarket pads for the front yet. The rears are the same as SOOO many other cars, but the fronts have been unobtanium until very recently. In fact, I have the first set of aftermarket pads on the market, I just need to install them and try them out.
Porterfield R-4S, street performance pad. They’re a carbon-kevlar instead of the factory semi-metallic. Not suitable for racing but low dust and very low rotor wear. Kind of pricey and I still haven’t confirmed fit OR feel, but I’m hoping this weekend to have them installed and start mating them to the rotors before a good bedding. I've got some Wilwood 600 brake fluid to flush out the factory stuff with too.
I’m afraid this whole “buy it and forget it” idea is backfiring… Hands up, those of you who actually expected me to leave it alone!