As stated, need a later turbo pressure plate for my clutchnet clutch.

the NA does not hold so well.

thanks guys.

IIRC, they are the same. Only the disc differs in compound between turbo and N/A. Go snag a part number off it and have dale paste it into WP. I think I did and found them to be the same.


I had a sachs sport clutch for a while with the slightly stiffer diaphragm springs and 3 bands instead of 1 for the straps that hold the two pieces of pressure plate together.

Might want to measure the thickness of the disc. I had to machine the flywheel to use a clutchnet disck with a stock pressure plate and have it work right. If you have a pretty aggressive compound disc, it will chew about a 10 thou deep band in the flywheel in 10k miles driven like a savage. Machine accordingly if the thicknesses are indeed different from a new stock one (.275" clamped just to lay flat measured from the high parts of each "pad").

For that matter, I've gotten stock 240T non-IC clutches to hold onto a ton of ft-lbs (like 280 wheel) when bedded in right and not too cooked. Cook them like a savage and you will get not so stellar results. For that matter, a stock turbo clutch or sachs sport was enough to smoke the M46 a few times. Centerforce units for the flat flywheel will exceed the capacity of the M4x pretty quick too and drive nice. My flywheel is about 15lbs in my 242...wish I had gone crazier like my buddy phil and made it 12. I can dd it no problem with a stock 240 non-IC clutch and H-cam B23E clone.

Unless you have to run the heavy flywheel, I see no real reason to. I also see no reason to run nasty stepped flywheels, clutches that are hard to drive and the wrong thickness when the stock one well surfaced and broken in will shred 3rd gear in an M4x like clockwork. For a track car maybe where you bang the car on the rev limiter and let out the clutch to jump out of a chicane...4-puck solid hub disgustingness is for you then.

My clutchnet clutch took forever to break in. Then I read an article saying something like the clutchnet one was 20 thou (or 50) too thick so people would shim the pressure plate so it would clamp properly.

hmm,

where would you shim the pp?

Well, you should measure the thickness of your clutchnet disc first.

If it is indeed X amount thicker than .275" measured at the thickest parts lightly clamped to lay flat, you'd want to either grind the friction surface of the flywheel more by X (or maybe slightly less if it is of a material that eats flywheels quickly...see above) or shim the pressure plate backwards by X (provided it clears the clutch release arm OK....should be fine for the changes we are talking about, but check). A decent set of digital calipers is a lot cheaper and less irritating than doing this twice or not checking...BTDT.

Grinding the flywheel might be more costly if you have to pay someone else to do it. Shimming the pressure plate I wasn't excited about, so I ground the flywheel down. I also got rid of the small cracks and heat stress in the surface of the flywheel to the point that the surface was still very good when that particular flywheel came out of the car. Kind of amazing since I'm very hard on clutches. Unless you HAVE to use the stepped flywheel, you will laugh yourself silly driving a car with a 15lb flat flywheel like a complete savage. Night and day better to drive.

I have a flat flywheel on my 745, I love it!

I can get flywheels machined cheap up on Olds, Alberta.

I can actually probably get one machined cheap here in Calgary too

- R

yeah, im lazy, this is a DD, ill just get a little weight taken off and the surface machined.