A failing centerbearing has me finally motivated re: my long-held plan of converting to a large u-joint driveshaft. I've found the pick n pull cars usually get their driveshafts damaged early on in processing. I'm also not confident about being able to remove the nut hold the m46 output flange on there in the yard. Haven't tried, might not be as hard as I thought.
I realize this would be hard to ship, but would pick up. Someone from Edmonton might also be reading this...?
Matt, Dale?

You're welcome to the one on my 242, i assume it's the right one. Still attached to the car though, not sure when i'm going to get around to taking it apart, but not until the second half in July at least.

This is the silver 242 that had the twin spoke 17's? Didn't know you were done with it...

Best offer I have so far. I could/should phone Response here in Edmonton- they've previously been happy to help for some very reasonable prices, but I'll let you know if I don't need it. If you get ready to have it towed, make sure to call me first. I'll try to contact you, but sometimes my procrastination overtakes me.

Anyone removed the flange nut on the back of the trans? Big pry bar between two bolts, and then get a breaker bar on the center nut? Suppose I can try mine first at home, get a feel for how difficult it is.

plan is either the above offer- how's it coming?

or I get a look around the wreckers Saturday (jul 25th) and see if I can get a front half.

I can get a rear half from Response. Apparently, he had two fronts, that he'd had for a while, and did two Auto to m46 conversions this spring/summer.

very slowly ian. this weekend I might actually get around to spending some time in the garage. most of which will be cleaning and organizing so I actually have somewhere to put parts once removed.

not having actually taken an m46 apart myself, is removing the output flange difficult, or render the rest of what is basically a good tranny useless?

Yes.

Naw, heck if I know. First time for me too. The nut on the center of the output flange is really only 1/3rd the thickness of a usual SAE nut. Looks like it should come off fairly easy. I suspect the oil will drain out once the flange is removed, so be prepared for that, I guess.

I think I have a driveshaft that works. Still stuck on the output flange. I will let you know if I get that.

I've got several overdrives here, if you want to look at the flanges. What would the diameter be?

GOT IT.

I used a cheap Chinese impact I had that I don't often use- it's 24v, and it completely did the trick on both the m46 output flange, the pinion equivalent at the back, on both cars...plus lots of wheel nuts, all on one charge.

So, I'm about, umm... 55% of the way through.
How are you supposed to stretch the spline bellows back over the splines on reassembly? The area of the shaft the bellows seals on is a good 5/8ths inch smaller than the splines, and it seals well. I've given up for tonight- had kitchen cutlery through to dental style picks trying to stretch it...but it was 10PM, and I was hungry and my arms really tired, plus I had the shaft flopping and hanging, and hanging up on the park brake cables. Any tricks? (I'm quite sure I'm going to finally get it in, then notice it has twisted out of alignment in the struggle...lol)
The center bearing is about 0.5-0.6" further forward with the new shaft and the m46 output flange on the m41, but since one of the captive nuts for the center bearing isolator strap in the floor is gone, and there's not a great deal of science evident is strapping the big isolator to the floor pan, I can work around that, no problem.
As long as the overall length is actually right...

A new bellows is pretty stretchy when it hasn't seen 30 years of grease and road salt.