Turbo Sedan 21mm bar anyone? Edmonton ideally...

I had one for years I'd wire brushed and painted, but realized I hacked that one onto my 140. So I am upgrading the 245GL to a heavier front bar without doing the rear at this time, much against my preferences.

There was a seller several lines down offering an IPD front bar but he has not returned and is not responding. I'd look at those as a set, too.

Suppose I can build a plate and do two small bars, but that doesn't suit the approach I have to this near-stock car.

bump...

I've got a rear bar in the garage. Might be a 23mm though...

Why do you want more rear bar? I've got a small one on the 242 and the balance with the springs and dampers I'm running is just fine. Slop in transitions is more spring related than bar. Sharper handling IMHO is found in the 200 lb/in rear and 300 lb/in front with HD's valved to match.

Not everyone (read very few) are willing to go full custom when a rear bar will help keep the car level going around corners. Don't forget why you did it on the 242. Not everyone needs the handling tuned like that and not everyone is willing or needs to spend the coin to attain your setup.

That's not my question - my question is why does he think that more rear roll resistance is needed. I actually think larger rear bars make the handling worse not better ceteris paribus. This is also not my current spring rate (r250/f400) - revalving HD's is about $70 USD per corner. I wouldn't suggest anyone who isn't tracking a car should do what I've done. These spring rates get you into reasonably sporty ride frequencies.

I would suggest handling and going around corners without touching door handles on the ground are two different. A bigger rear bar is the simplest and cheapest way to keep the car flatter in a corner.

That's not making any sense. I guess we're not ready for this conversation here anymore. Ian's got rear bar options by the looks of things.

Craig is offering a more highly developed and committed recipe than Ian may be looking for. I happen to agree that it's a better recipe, but I also know that the level of commitment is a very personal thing. I like cars that don't make my moobs jiggle too badly, for instance.

Besides, this is a WTB thread. Lets find the man a $20 sway bar and move on.

My thought is this is an OE (or OE plus) build on a stock 1982 245 GL. I'd like to keep the decent ride. If I cut the springs it will be like a 1/3 of a coil- negligible.

I've got extended front lower control arms- welded rather than plates (one of the old school guys on TB was selling them for a pittance- based off low mile bead blasted southern arms, and powder coated)- sadly no thought was given to increasing the caster.
They "might"- by reducing understeer- orient the car toward balance.

I'm wondering also about the roll center correctors from Kapelhenke.
I hate struts- those should help make struts less bad, geometrically.
One of my recollections of the car from a kid was my dad - a very conservative driver- leaving a big rubber trail from the outside tire, pulling into my uncle's fancy new 90* driveway. Lack of ackerman, outside tire folded over, positive stock static camber? IDK. Design flaw IMO, whichever. And I'd rather address roll and front "push" "geometrically" (added track, raised roll center, potential for slight camber gain) than with more spring or even more bar. Let the suspension move, when hitting a bump. Let it resist roll a bit better. Possible, I think.

The roll center correctors should increase the effective roll stiffness in the front (and now allow me to play with the ackerman if I find time). That "might" need a bigger rear bar.
Little bit of guesswork, I admit.

Thanks to Jordan (why I was logged in here, actually was to attempt to complete our trade) I have the low line Bilstiens to replace the ~100K km Boges. So I'll be starting from stock 240T spec basically, which I thought was decently acceptable.... And I have plans from there.

Anyway what I decided to do is switch the small bar onto the 140, and take my 21mm off there, and deal with that what ever year I get the engine swap completed. I've got an IPD bar plus a stock one on the front, so even with the 140 final oversteer, I felt a big rear bar was appropriate there.

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