I'm not sure it's fuel or spark related. It could be the cam and driveline lash. Matt had a horrible case of that in the V8 244 and I had it in my Mustangs too. Just a certain rpm where the engine and driveline couldn't get together and work as a unit. From what I recall it never happened on acceleration. It only happened at cruise.

True - doesn't happen on acceleration, maybe that's the problem. So where do I soak this K-Jet stuff down with carb cleaner. I've read that the idle control should be cleaned, but can't find where to clean it (I've found the screw). It's also been suggested that they like this done to the throttle body - I'm guessing I unbolt this to clean, Yes?

Surge is usually too lean, but it could be ignition related as well. K-jet cars usually don't surge at all, so what you've got is something goofy for sure.

I don't remember if the Pulsair lines have been removed, or if the pipe that runs across the back of the engine (exhaust manifold to intake manifold) was properly removed and sealed off, but if you removed the intake manifold to deal with some injector seals you might have damaged this pipe.

Intake stayed in place and the surge was the reason for the injector seal replacement. I'll soak the removable intake parts in carb cleaner and see if that helps out.

Just time for a quick update. I've added a Craving Boost short throw shifter to the car. What a difference. I've drivin an M46 that felt this good. I've only got a few KM on the shifter, but it was an upgrade worth doing. Brakes still need some attention and the reverse light issue (no reverse lights) has been traced to the crappy boards that power the lights. The reverse light switch was changed (thanks again Greg of the agile fingers) and the harness was traced from the fuse box to the lights. So it looks like I have to rewire the tail lights.

How about some brass shifter bushings for that too? Got a set aching to go into a veh.

No bushings required for this kit...it has a new spherical bearing and the bearings for the fork connector are needle bearings. I've got some of the brass bushings already.

but...wheres the bits to break then?

I think someone should make a stronger shifter to tranny link rod, ya know the one I broke two of? After 25 years im sure they aren't that strong anymore.

I think that problem only applies to the M46 and on salt cars. Never broken one on a cali car with bright cad plating.

The M47 one is a lot more straight on and strong and the M45 one is straight on with no bend in it. For that matter, the M45 is the smoothest shifting volvo M45/46/47 box I've shifted yet. I could savagely rail on that thing and it would never grind or crunch. My M46 made the most sickening crunches every time I'd get on the freeway or drive the car competitively.

I actually like just the stock M45 knob and lever and brass bushings. I don't really like shorter throw because I like to be able to wail on that POS trans to get it to shift and at an autocross. Then throw the trans out when it is about to keel over from the abuse and put something better in. If you don't drive your car like a monkey, a shorter shifter and the stock linkage rod is probably fine for you. [/i]

Well, the GT interior was in pretty bad shape, so I pulled it in favour of a set of e-bay BMW E36 front sport seats and a leather back seat - I'll miss the orange stripe, but my back will forgive me. If anyone wants the rear seat it is sitting by my garbage bin .

For all you guys that thought cleaning wheels in the kitchen sink was over the top - how about conditioning leather seats in the front room for a week!





Yes, Deirdre is tolerant. The BMW seats I picked up are ready for fabricating brackets today, then I have to wire up all the motors and the heat (it is a winter car after all). The rear seats were in Alex's 244 and are going to be dyed tonight as they are showing just a little wear - but are soft and supple.

Then next week I'm starting on new leather door panels, dash and rear parcel shelf. Oh and I tried to make sure the pictures were back lit as well as possible so they would turn out in my own personal photographic style.

I think I have the performance issue sorted out...after Matt checked my intake hose (from the air cleaner box to the K-Jet thingy) and discovered it was warn through in many places, I was motivated to take it all apart and fix it up and see what was up. It's not been apart since I did the FPR in the winter. I fixed the holes in the hose with fancy rubber tape, cleaned out the accumulated goop.

Then on the the K-Jet side of things. I started by pulling all the vacuum hoses and other things that connect to the fuel distributor and air flow sensor and flushed them out with carb clean (seems appropriate). Then I pulled the rubber boot that connects the air flow sensor to the throttle body and discovered that the top clam was broken! Cleaned the plate (it wasn't that dirty) and bolted it all back together.

Runs much better now, I'm guessing I had a pretty big vac leak there and wasn't getting power for this reason.

Still learning.