Ugly Duck wrote:
As far as how much power you'll make, I think the question is "how much power will your transmission take?"
Lols
Ugly Duck wrote:
The L block FT with 13mm rods should be solid to beyond 350 hp. The turbo cam and gear will help you breathe very well. Megasquirt running 46#/hr injectors will give you lots of fuel and support lots of power. There's a few things missing, though:
Ugly Duck wrote:
Turbo - that T3/T4 you linked to is indeed crap, but the level of crap is in question. One guy on Tbrix is running low 13s on one and has been boosting it to over 20 psi for the last while. It still hasn't blown up, while his actual Garrett T3/T4 blew up in 50 miles. I think they're hit-and-miss, and at $150 a pop, it's a gamble. The HY35W would be a good choice, as they're a REALLY strong turbo with a nice wide powerband and an excellent reputation, and they're available on eBay once in a while 'cause the CTD guys are upgrading them all the time. However, the kiddies are all looking for the HY because it's got the smaller turbine housing to work with their little 1.6 & 1.8 litre motors. I've got an HX35W that I'm going to be trying on my car, which might require a slightly smaller cam than the IPD Turbo to be truly happy. The key with the Holsets is to deal with the wastegate - it doesn't flow nearly enough. I'm going to try porting mine out and using a 39mm exhaust valve as a flapper, but Alamo turbochargers said that they could do the same thing with the biggest flapper that will fit, for about $150.
I have a guy who wants to sell me a HY35W for a 120 bucks, so next paycheque I should be able to do some matt-money(tm) - a cherry picker (my other one got stolen, again) - and some turbo happy
9cm exhaust housing ftmfw
I have an old Audi wastegate I can use...
Ugly Duck wrote:
Fuel system: Your injectors will flow about 480 cc/min each at 3 bar and about 550 cc/min if you install a 4 bar regulator from a turbo Dodge. That should be good for between 350 hp at "safely rich" to about 425 hp at "scary lean". Great, but you're gonna need a fuel pump. The fuel pump in your car, brand new, is good for about 3.5 of your injectors at 3 bar and about 2 of your injectors at 4 bar. You could try a Walbro high pressure, which is what I'm going to be using, or you could try dual K-jet fuel pumps in parallel. Either would take some monkeying, but the dual K-jet pumps will be cheaper.
I've got a walbro 255 lph that I bought looong time ago, guess I could use that?
Should I put it inline, and just keep the intank pump as is?
Ugly Duck wrote:
Powertrain: Your transmission is NOT going to take what the engine will give. I don't know how much power it'll take, but eventually it'll blow up when you're in 3rd gear. I'm going to be installing my T5 into my car, but that requires a buch of money invested. Clutch, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, transmission adapter, shifter, driveshaft... I think the easiest & cheapest way you could survive with that power is by installing an AW71 automatic. If it's in good shape, they can take lots of punishment, but I know how much you like manuals so I doubt this is an option. Aside from buying up someone's Getrag, Toyota, or T5 swap kit, I don't know what to suggest.
I dont mind changing transmissions all the time
Its "cheaper" for me than figuring out where in the world to find money for a swap...
Ugly Duck wrote:
Rear end: You've already blown up how many welded rear ends through abuse? Might be time to try something else. You can get a Powertrax locker for that rear end, and if you've got an automatic I don't think it would be so terrible to live with. They're strong, can take lots of abuse, get rid of all the trouble with side and spider gears, weakened welded bits, etc. You'll snap axles first, but that will be rare. You could keep trying the welded route, though, but how many replacements will it take to pay for a Powertrax? (same arguement as for the tranny swap)
Can't I just run an open 1031 diff? - Aren't the powertrax units expensive? Is there no cheap alternative at all? - I was thinking of figuring out how to make a spool
That or run an 8.8" I guess?
Ugly Duck wrote:
And FWIW, nitrous doesn't work that way. If it's a 50 shot on a V8 it's a 50 shot on a 4 cylinder. It's enough air and fuel to make 50 horsepower - if it's in a V8 that 50 hp is distributed over 8 cylinders at 6.25 each. Realistically a 50 shot makes more than that, so your 78 hp claim isn't WRONG, just not specific to a 4 banger install.
I thought nitrous was fancier... see, in the manual for my Nitrous controller - there are different jet sizes for fuel/nitrous for 8cyl/6cyl and 4cyl.
I unno?
- R