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 Post subject: little help?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 2:05 pm 
Vmax 200mph w00t!

Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 9:15 pm
Posts: 280
Ok,. I hate to admit this but I think the engine swap may be alittle over my head.

I just dont know where to start. Should I pull the engine out first then swap things or should I put the new seals in the new engine and get it all preped for the componant swaps?

Should I leave the tranny in the car when I pull the engine or should I pull it out?

I feel so lost.

I would love to have a engine swap party at my place, I would provide some pizza and beer or pop. :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 2:40 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:40 pm
Posts: 3492
Location: Calgary, Ab
You couldn't have picked a worse time to need to swap this engine...

Well, I just did the one in the white car and since that'll be fairly similar to your situation, I'd do it the same way:

Start at the beginning: Drain the fluids. Pull the intercooler, the rad, and the downpipe. Unbolt the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor from the engine and tie them back so they're out of the way. Remove the intake manifold for better access to the engine, and it might be easiest to remove the engine harnesses from both the car and the engine - give them a look-over while you're at it.

Unbolt the girdle under the oil pan, and undo the torque converter bolts. The torque converter must stay inside the transmission when you pull the engine, and it's probably easier to leave the tranny in place. Or, you can pull the tranny with the engine, but then you've got some manuvering to do and you might have to remove the AC condensor and rad support. With the tranny still in the car the engine pops right out without having to remove those pieces, and indeed you don't need to remove the hood. Anyway, once you've got the torque converter unbolted, start unbolting the engine from the tranny, unbolt the motor mounts, and out she comes.

Installation is the reverse of removal, but yes it's probably easiest to change all the seals with the engine on a stand or on the floor or whatever. It might also be easiest to transfer all the brackets and sensors from your old engine to your new one with them both sitting on the floor, but that's up to you. I also found that removing or at least loosening the drivers' side motor mount bracket from the engine makes lining up the passenger side mount easy, and then it's simple to install the drivers' side mount. On a 240 I'd just undo the six bolts from under the crossmember and take the mount pedestals with the engine, but I didn't do that on my 760 and found it most difficult to get the mounts lined up.

Depending on how comfortable you are with your memory, and your patience, and the length of time it'll take to do this swap, you may want to consider labeling the electrical plugs and the vacuum fittings. Taking pictures might help too. My memory has proven pretty good in those cases, so I tend to remember how things go back together.


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