Hey guys, I hope everyone is enjoying this weather! I'd like to get everyones input on turbos as I'm looking into turbo options lately as i believe my unit is cooked(I think it has over 300,000 on it but the shaft play is negligible) and im getting weird smoking problems that i cannot attribute to anything else.

Im hitting the dilemma, of should I rebuild the existing oil cooled Garrett T3:either replace the whole cartridge or just do seals(because of lack of shaft play).

OR should i upgrade to a different unit. I have looked into 15Gs but I dont think i will find one locally or cheap for that matter. Also i have been looking into the holsets. The two i have read the most on are the hx30 and hx35. The 30 being more suited to my b21ft and the 35 being WAY easier to find, cheaper and the T3 flange is appealing in itself


Although the Hx30 would be my ideal choice between the two i have been watching ebay for quite some time and haven't seen one. The hx35 seem much more plentiful and cheap . But they do pose the problem of spooling incredibly late compared to the Garrett T3 i have. I heard one person on a pre 91 exhaust mani and relatively stock setup not getting his 14psi till almost 4000.


My goals- I would like to keep it as budget as possible, like under 1000 if possible. I would like a turbo that spools decently low(3000-35000 is ok with me) as i dont need to be on boost all the time. I am looking at running 10-15 psi nothing drastic as I am focusing on making this a reliable fun car, rather than a "One run wonder". Fabrication is also an issue as i am lacking in specialty tools as i dont have the space in my dads garage for them but i dont mind paying to get piping etc welded.


Anyone have any ideas of what route i should persue?

3000-35000? big range, pick any turbo you want then....just kidding though I know what you ment. I'm not too sure what would be best for your application, but if you need use of tools, a hoist or anything then let me know and we can work something out.

yea its a big range i know . I would prefer to have a low to midrange spooling turbo rather then something that hits full on at 4000+ and pulls till redline as i rarely wind it out to near redline anyways.

My main concerns are my budget, accesibility to the turbo and of course how enjoyable it would be driving on the street.

thanks for the offer man, i have a hoist and what not but if i were to say have to fabricate a flange, exhaust mani or something of that nature i would be SOL.

there is a lot of talk about the hx35s on t-bricks and the rebuild kits are plentiful on ebay so i was sort of leaning towards that but i dont know if it would be considered a streetable turbo on a 2.1L

10-15psi? low to mid range spooling? Still with the T3.

a 50 trim T3 compressor is right in its efficiency range up to about 15psi and 6000rpm on a 2.1 litre low compression motor. any bigger and you're mostly going to add lag, and maybe compressor surge if you go too big.

at the most, get a 60 trim T3, it will be a bit happier at 15psi. benflynn on tbricks sells upgrade kits. a small (45 or 50 trim) T04E wouldn't be bad either and he'll sell you the whole cold section to swap over (not sure if that includes new seals or not) for a very reasonable price.

Awesome, i ended up talking to Ben and bought a turbo off of him. Its a 60trim t3. Should be a fun turbo and was relative cheap. All i need now is to get fuel covered. I am considering going CFI, i believe you(athal) bought some 46lbers off of dusty. i dont believe he has any now but ive been watching over pnp for some 400s or 424s. the only ones ive managed to find were 402s which flow around 37lbs.

I am not sure what i am going to need at 15psi but i believe i will want injectors supplying in the 42lb/hr range?

so i can either run the 400/424(46lbs @ 3bar) at 2.5bar, or get a set of the 402s(37lbs@3bar) and run them with a dodge 4 bar fpr.


I know running the 400/424 CFIs at the lower pressure will probably negativity affect the atomisation but will I really notice a difference?

holy, you've done some wicked research dude. Have you done a walbrow 255 fuel pump? if you did the 4bar fpr you would need it for the supply end.

I'm really torn about using Ben as a parts source. From what I've read on Tbrix, he knows nothing about turbocharger operation or size selection, and he sounds dumb as a post. But if you know what you want and if he can supply it for cheap, that's not a bad thing. I just wouldn't listen to anything he's got to say...

/my opinion

THere are some cool turbo/flow calculators out there. I'd post the link but they're in my faves at home, maybe matt can post? That 60 trim T3 should be great for medium boost, and still spool fairly fast. My T04b is a bit too big for my liking, but I'll make due for now.

I'm planning to use the stock 29(?) lb/hr injectors and suspect they SHOULD be able to handle 15psi. Yes, they might be close to the ragged edge, but I'll be watching things closely. From what I've read and understand, 36lbs should be more than enough if all you're running is 1 bar boost.

I bought 36lbers off dusty for Darth, and he seems to have adjusted to them ok. He *might* get a bigger turdo down the road, but I just wanted clean injectors for both cars. THe 242 running LH 2.2 won't adjust as well, so that's why I'm using a nice cleaned and balanced set of stock injectors.

One of my favourites:

http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml?FeetASL=0&Tamb=21&Bore=96&Stroke=80&nCyl=4&RPM=5300&VE=68&Boost=7.25&Ec=75&Eic=70&PdropIC=0.5&TambIC=21&wiPercentMethanol=50&wiRate=100&wiTemp=21&SFC=.48&AFR=12.5&maxInjectorDutyCycle=85

Havent done the walbro yet but I have a 255 sitting in my room incase the pump on my car decides it cant handle the stress which is a high possibility even though its brand new. The k-jet flows a little more then the lh fuel pumps and at much higher pressure (5bar as apposed to lh’s 3 bar- I believe) so I hope for now it will do.




I’m beginning to believe your right the more I read over his posts, I first expected him to be some Volvo/turbo guru but some of his posts lead me to think otherwise. However I think its good that hes started supplying turbo stuff as I am more comfortable buying stuff off of tbricks members then ebay.




Ok yea ill look into some 36lbs CFIs I actually had a pair in my hand at PNP the other day but decided against it as I wasn’t sure if they would be enough. I get confused sometimes on T-bricks because even though there is a ton of information on the CFI injectors everyone is running them at different pressures and everyone has a different setup so I find it hard to come up with a good plan for my set up.

Are you going to be running the stock injectors at 3 or 4 bar?
Im also running MS on the GT so it will just be a matter of revamping my whole configuration




Thanks!

Ahh, it seems like everytime i post its to brag about my problems. Well i got another one. As i posted before i bought a 60 trim off of benflynn with a ford compressor side. I told him what engine i had etc and he said that it would essentially be a direct bolt on.


Well its not, as you can see from the pictures it looks like when he rebuilt the turbo/had the turbo rebuilt he clocked it completely out of wack. here are some pictures to show you what i mean.

(old one off car on left, new one on right)





SO what do you guys think i should do at this point? Is reclocking a turbo really that difficult, i've read the writeup for the 15G, it seems straight forward enough but seems like a waste to pull apart a freshly rebuilt turbo . should i try to fab up oil lines?

Reclocking a Garrett is simple, so long as it's freshly assembled. Once it gets carboned up, it's pretty tough to get apart. Loosen all the turbine bolts and get the turbine to bearing cartridge alignment similar to your old one, then tighten it up and do the same to the compressor side. It's mighty simple - just don't loosen the turbine bolts too far, as they will interfere with the bearing cartridge as you turn it.

sweet, thanks, ill do a couple practice runs on my old turbo, if it will come apart.

just wondering if this sounds right to you guys. the specs for the turbine and compressor housing bolts i found were:

compressor

145 - 165 inch lbs = 12.08 - 13.75 ft lbs

Turbine

185 - 200 inch lbs = 15.42 - 16.67 ft lbs

sounds about right to me. Not very tight. Use a little thread locker on the compressor housing if you want.

The turbine will soon be so rusted that you'll never get it off anyway. I prefer garretts to mitsus, but the way the mitsu turbine housing attaches is genius compared to the garrett. Putting a 745T back together took waaay less time with the TD05 than the garrett, even though my garrett is pretty freshly assembled. (The mitsu uses one bolt and stainless band clamp)