i ran into a few snags today while working on the engine. First im unsure what these two things are, the first one is some sort of sensor(temp??) that mounts on the flywheel side of the engine and goes into where the flywheel is, it has wires coming off of it(3 wires) that go to what looks like a plug in for something but it has a plastic cover on it, so essentially it goes no where. What exactly does this thing do? do i need it? can i just use it to plug the hole and forget about it?-(im asking because i accidently broke the connections on it trying to get it off my parts engine).

sensor thingy with wires



black box it goes to




where it mounts and what is that thingy?



in the same picture what is that brass colored thing, it seems to just plug a coolant hole, what is this for?


And lastly im having trouble mounting the distributor, there is a little tick in the housing of the distro that i try to line the rotor up with while installing, but it also says in the book dont let the gear turn while installing? i dont understand cuz that seams impossible to do. any hints?



Thanks!

Jon

Throw that first thing in the trash. It's only useful to provide TDC and RPM information to the Volvo techs, if you ever planned on taking it there again.

The second thing is exactly that - a coolant fitting. It plugs off the block drain, and there's a hose barb on there in case you want to stick a hose on it to direct the flow to a jug or something.

Finally, you're getting caught up in the "don't let the rotor turn", and should be concentrating on where the rotor actually ends up. So long as the rotor points a little bit past the #1 terminal (I mean, a LITTLE BIT, 5* or so), and the retainer boss allows the bolt to go thru to the hole in the block and still provide some adjustment, and so long as your cam is aligned correctly (notch in the rear timing belt guide plate lining up with the notch in the cam cover) and your crankshaft is at #1 TDC (notch in the rear timing belt guide plate lining up with the boss on the seal plate), you're good.

thanks, yea i find some of the directions in haynes are annoying and the pictures dont quite tell the whole story, thanks for the info!

very true...CVC should publish a new book, the "Dupuis and friends Manual" for Volvo's, full of info, pics, and anecdotes!

ciao

haha yea! i found chilton is the worst IMO, it gives instructions like " step one: remove engine from car"

the chilton is good for torque settings of bascially everything

cept the 700 wheels nuts torqed to 65 ft/lbs

65?? that's just scary low to me, i stretched mine long ago so i keep it at 80 ft/lbs, going to replace them soon anyway when i get the new wheels/spacers

ciao

65?!

the CanTire diagram said 90?

for wheels nuts

200's are 85-87 ft/lbs

700's are 63-65 ft/lbs

100% sure on this. ulness my sources (about 3 diff ones) are incorrect

ciao

700s use 12mm studs, 200s use 1/2" (12.7mm) studs. Doesn't seem like much, but it's around 20% difference in cross sectional area after you cut the threads.

hey guys well im unsure of another thing. first off the engine im getting the parts off of for mine is from an 83 GLT , its a b21ft w/398 head kjet etc. Anyways just above and to the right of the oil filter there is a metal cylindrical object that is connected to the block with an angled metal tube. it also has 2 electrical leads comming off of it I believe it is an oil pressure sender but the guy could not find it on the computer at the dealership. it kinda looks like the following, sorry im not at home for the next couple days so i cant take a pic but here is a paint rendering, hope it makes sense

Oil pressure gauge sending unit... One wire is for the gauge. The other is for the idiot light...