As always, great advice Matt, much appreciated. I sent a note to Amazon Cars a while back on inquiry on their fast road springs, I'll have to dig out the info. These cold prairie -30 temps sure lend themselves to couch surfing lately.

Happy New Year everyone!

Hey friends, I got a question that I hope isn't too silly. In the spring, I want to pull the rear end out of the car, clean up the mounts, paint the rear end, etc., get it all fixed up.
How can I support the rear of the car? My only thoughts at the moment are the rear bumper supports or jack points. I don't want to rest the car on the frame, that's a definite. Those jack points look pretty small, I would feel safer with more jackstands underneath. Any opinions would be welcomed.

And I'll just park this here for fun, been thinking about this for a bit. Not that it will ever get done, but it's nice to think a bit outside the box.
I have been looking into the Aisin Toyota supercharger. It would have to have a custom intake manifold, probably injected, but controlled electrically. I have very little idea of the work involved, but looking at the Judson units out there, it doesn't seem 100% fantasy. The whole reason is to basically emulate my favorite movie, The Road Warrior. Being able to switch on a blower at the pull of a switch just attracts me to no end. For me, its an easy rabbit hole to disappear into. Practicality and feasibility seem low at this point, but it's a hoot to bench race with. Thanks for the indulgence!
http://www.roadkill.com/supercharge-eve ... -u-wrench/

FWIW mine is sitting on jackstands at all 4 corners right now, and has been for a while now...

I haven't had to drop the axle on the 122, but when I did bushings in the back of a 240 it sat on jack stands at the rear jack points and I sat the axle on another set while I removed the trailing arms and torque rods.

My Canadian has been sitting on 12 ton stands at the rear bumper mount for the past 3 years. I've also left it for a long time on the tab mounts. Providing the inner sill is in good condition - Volvo did design that point to take the weight of the car. They are reinforced inside.

So you're fine either way.

Thanks very much guys!
Just fitted new choke cables today. I got the one from the Greece eBay seller. Both cables were the same length, I had to shorten one at least 10 inches to create the offset. I had to remove the metal cables ends that were supplied as well, there was no way for the ends to fit into the SU clamps. Grose jets go in next to see how they do.

Picked up this little number off of Amazon the other day (30-4110), hoping it can be of use tuning the air\fuel ratio.



I need to get a better handle on the carbs and tuning as a whole. Nothing will happen until the end of April, since i broke a bone in my hand. Gives me lots of time to shop, though, which could be good or bad depending on the optics .

Planned work for the spring includes finishing up the ignition as a a whole, removing the rear end, cleaning/painting it up, and new bushings as well. Maybe even new springs all around, and I hope to fit the Koni shocks I have. Floorboards still need to be done, but i have to gather cash for that. Another definite is figuring out the trans mount, and how to use the BW35 mounts on a M41. Cameron Lovre approves of a forward mounted bracket, so that is a good endorsement for what I think I will do.

Forward mount bracket? What does this look like? I had my M41 mounted on the same mount as my M40. Did the automatic have a different position for the cross member? Interesting.

A car had come into his shop back in March 2017 that was previously an automatic and converted to a manual, like mine. The mount boxes between auto and manual cars are 100% located in different spots on the underside. The BW35 mounts are located rearward of the M4_ mounts would normally be. A recent article in Classic Motorsports quotes Mike Dudek in saying the same, that mods were needed as well. This reinforces my research in that I don't have a one-off situation.

It's just essentially ears that extend rearward from the proper mount on the transmission to the BW35 mounts on the underside of the car about 8-10 inches by my reckoning.

I don't have the skills or the tools to undertake welding new mounts to the underside, but if I can get to this point as shown in the photos, then I can at least get rid of that goofy-a$$ mount that is screwed into my framerails which is the current configuration. I have seen other similar styles of mounting like this on the web (Google "mount m41 to bw35" for images), but this the beefiest I have seen.

I asked Cameron about this type of mount and if it was ok, he had mentioned that it was perfectly fine. So I'll take that as a go-ahead at this stage. I may have a broken bolt in one mount, but I will inspect it when the time comes. I am pretty sure there are other pictures in this thread that explain that, so I won't re-post them here. Pics of the "Oregon Mount" are below.

Not sure if that’s a J type or D type OD you have. You may be aware, but there’s 2 different small brackets that attach to the trans and to the rubber mount.

Also the original rubber mount is often replaced with a sturdier engine mount from a 164 which is shown in the right hand example in the picture.

Those pictures above aren't of my car, those are the customers' car. But I do know I have a type J OD in my car. I will look into these mounts, thanks for the heads up. I don't trust anything on this car as being correct by looking at it, I am trying to right the wrongs as I go.

Small update, I got my ignition all hooked up with a friends help and it went rather smoothly. I wanted to retain the armored cable in an attempt to keep things a bit more simple. I think it looks pretty good.



Here's a pic of the new coil in its mounting. The car seems to crank a lot quicker as a result. A worthwhile upgrade in my mind.



Here's a pic of the current engine bay. The car runs pretty smooth, but I seem to be fouling plugs like crazy. I am running KD needles and 12 flats back on the SU's but can't seem to find a happy medium. For now, I might bring a long a brass brush and a spark plug removal combo to clean them up if I go to shows, etc. I have read that the SU's run rich at idle, and they lean out as the throttle is engaged more. Hopefully I can get my O2 sensor installed in a week or two. I don't care about going rich so much as I am concerned about going lean.

As well, I can't get my darn tach to work. Green signal wire to the (-) side of the coil? Nope. Green signal wire hooked inline to the (-) side of the coil? Nope. I am thinking either I have a dud tach, or I blew it somehow. It's a Princess Auto special, so I might have got what I paid for. I read on some posts that I could test the tach by hooking it up to a 12v charger and reading the pulses it gives out. I might give that a try for a laugh. It feels good to get to the car again after a cold winter and a hand injury.

SUs run rich at idle. Or lean. Or perfect. They'll run exactly as well as you can tune them. SU carbs aren't prone to any particular tuning impossibilities. They may be Rube Goldberg devices for getting fuel mixed with air, but they can do the job very well.

Carbs tend to appreciate being a bit richer than stoich at idle, but not plug-fouling rich - we're talking about 13.0:1 AFRs, which would be a nice saddle brown on the plugs if you could get any kind of colour from plugs while at idle. If you can't get your idle under control with the jets, your float levels may be too high. Don't be afraid of lifting the jets some, but if fuel is shaking & splashing into the airstream from the float level being too high, you won't get a predictable tune.

Have you checked the throttle shafts for wear? It can make tuning SU's a chore...once fixed it's as easy as the manual says. What happens when you lift the bell using the pin (or a flat blade screwdriver to just crack them open)? Where is your timing set?

"What happens when you lift the bell using the pin (or a flat blade screwdriver to just crack them open)?"
The idle rises slightly, then goes back down. I think that's correct from what I've read.

"Where is your timing set?"
I must admit, this is an area that I lack skills in. I believe I have 15 degrees initial, and 35 total. Is it fair to say that it runs 'right' at a certain rotation? My timing gun seems to be on strike these days, so I can't be totally exact.

I am going to put the jets in another set of carbs I have, they were rebuilt by Rhys, so I'll give that a shot. Update hopefully soon on that.

I found that when driving the car for extended periods, I didn't feel well after. I figured it was either exhaust or some other environmental issue was working its way into the car. So my next task is to seal as much of the outside off, from the inside. I installed a new trunk seal with the help of a friend, and we replaced the fuel tank gasket where the sender goes in. Going to order some door seals next to help seal the doors as well.

Got a new tach and installed it, works great. Turns out a resistor on the old tach was blown.

I took out the back seats to see what lived back there, whether it be rust, or hopefully lost money. No rust, but no money either. Cleaned it up, vacuumed, and put everything back together.


While I was back there, there were two cutouts for 6x9 speakers in the parcel shelf. They were letting all manner of stench into the passenger compartment. We cut out some 3/8 OSB, I glued down some indoor/outdoor carpet that I used for the floor last summer, and sealed up the holes with some dum-dum with the panel overtop. It looks ok, and more importantly, helps keep the rear area isolated. The white panel isn't totally connected, I have to monkey with some of the clips that attach it to the vertical surface under the window.


As well, I found this body hole when that white panel was off. It seems to be open underneath the headliner back into the trunk. So far, I can't find any type of body plug or body schematic to point towards what it is used for. Old rear speakers perhaps?


Got a set of '06 Mustang wheels for $125, thought I would test them out and see what comes out of it. Facebook opinions are pretty vocal in the 'negative' column. Tires installed at the moment are 215/65R16. It looks a bit 4x4-ish right now, and the front wheels don't want to sit right without wobbling. I placed a couple washers on the studs to have a quick look, and I would need about 3 mm of spacing for them to fit flush.. New studs would be required as well, I think there are ARP Ford studs that would fit from what I recall. Wheel part # is 6R33-1007-EB, size is 16X7.0J X 39mm. Again, just a test, they were cheap, not 100% in love with them, but I wanted to try something a bit different. Ultimates are Panasports for me.


I just picked up a few new (old) parts from a great gentleman south of Saskatoon. He has a ton of 240's, a couple PVs and some 140s as well. I got a Volvo Canadian trim piece cause it was cool, a dash pad, and more importantly, an injection exhaust manifold. But now that I trial fit the dash pad, it is for a PV, not a 122. Oh well, I can sell that, it's in great shape. I am hoping the exhaust manifold fits, though. It's always a bit of a dice roll when buying old parts

Nothing real exciting just a few purchase updates, and more work to come....
- I pulled the trigger on a set of rally springs from Dai Brace's outfit, Classic Swede. Just waiting for them to arrive from across the water.
- I made the big order from Olof for all the fittings and bushings for the rear end, hopefully I can get to that soon. I am planning to pull the rear end completely out, get it all cleaned up, get the arms powdercoated, etc. and button it all back up. I went with the rubber bushings this time, I think it'll go fine.
- Looped in with the brother-in-law on a Summit order to get AutoMeter traditional gauges in water temp, oil pressure and voltmeter, and a few accessories to make it all fit. Parts list is below.
- Got a Gunson Colortune coming as well... always been intrigued with the gadget, we'll see how well it works. Or not!

Gauges and bits:
Water temp, 2532
Oil pressure, 2522
Voltmeter, 2592
Earls 63011712ERL 12 In -3 AN Fem Straight & 90 Degree Speed-Flex Line
Earls 961603ERL Straight -3 AN Male to 1/8 Inch NPT, Zinc Plated Steel
Gauge Fitting, Straight AN3 Male, 1/8 Inch NPT Female
Straight AN3 Male, 1/8 Inch NPT Female
3 hole panel, 2238

Got to be honest with myself, I am not in love with the Mustang wheels from the previous post. I thought I would be, but they don't seem to go with the car as well as I liked. It was definitely worth the shot to see what they would look like, though. I think Cragar S/S or even Charger steelies could look just as good or better.