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 Post subject: Question about a motor change
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 8:53 pm 
Bone stock

Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:54 pm
Posts: 24
Location: Calgary
The motor in my 89 740 wagon has started to develop a knock. I found a 240 that has the same motor and transmission. However, the 240 has LH 2.2, whereas mine has 2.4. What do I need to change over? I did notice the 240 has the distributor on the block; mine is on the head. There was a wire on the distributor on the 240. Mine did not have anything of that sort, except the crank position sensor. I think I might use the transmission out of the other car, since my 3rd pops out once in awhile. I have an M47. I think I need to change the flywheel and move the distributor. Is there a place for the crank sensor on the 240 motor? Or should I reuse my bellhousing?

Thanks

Blair


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:58 pm 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:19 pm
Posts: 3131
Location: Lethbridge, AB
This one's above my pay grade - but most of the lads on this forum will be chiming in momentarily to help you out. Sounds to me like you've got a B230 and are changing out a B23. Welcome to the board.

_________________
Coburn Performance - OCD comes naturally.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 11:13 pm 
Bone stock

Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:54 pm
Posts: 24
Location: Calgary
Both cars have a B230F. Its is just that one has LH 2.4 and the other 2.2.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:00 am 
Site Admin
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 4:01 pm
Posts: 2005
Location: Always in front of a computer or behind a wheel
Welcome to the board, I've done a 2.4lh motor to 2.2 swap, so doing the opposite can't be too difficult.

If you need a hand and someone to point at things, let me know, I've got winter break (from SAIT) till Jan 7th, give me a call anytime (my numbers are in the phone list on the forum here)

- Raz


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:23 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:40 pm
Posts: 3492
Location: Calgary, Ab
It's pretty simple: strip the 240 engine of it's sensors, distributor, and flywheel, and install the sensors, distributor, and flywheel from the 740. The 240's bellhousing should have the area for the crank sensor already there, but covered with a thin membrane of aluminium that you can knock out. I don't know where the crank sensor bolts to (never worked on a 2.4 car) but at worst you'll have to drill & tap a couple of holes.

The other thing you could do is use the bellhousing from the 740, but the bellhousing is actually the end of the transmission so it's matched up to the shims and bearings on assembly. Shouldn't get you into too much trouble swapping one for the other, presuming they bolt on, but know that it's not the ideal way to go. However, your old transmission probably wouldn't notice the reduced preload and/or would appreciate the added preload.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:53 am 
Strapping on extra booster rockets

Joined: Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:46 pm
Posts: 360
Location: B-Ham WA/Portland, OR USA
The crank angle sensor mounts to a small aluminum bracket that has largish M10 bolts pointing toward the front of the engine like the bellhousing bolts.

All B230s have those spots drilled tapped, all B23FT do, and all B21FT in the 242T flathood homoligation cars. B21f,B21FT, B23E and early B23F do NOT have those spots tapped before 1983 or so. The bellhousing has a thin spot you knock out in the '86 and newer 240s, all 700 series, and 242T homoligation cars. It is not a particularly structural piece, so if you have an oddball '85-86 240 without the knockout, you can either trim the bell to have the same shape cutout as your '89 700 does, or simply swap the 700 bell to the 240 tranny, reuse the 700 tranny/whatever. M4x 200 homoligation and some 700 bells actually have additional reinforcing ribs cast into the bell..interesting subtle difference I caught when pulling apart a 242T flathood and adding its bellhousing to my pile of em for adaptation.


Do not use the 740 dizzy as anything but fodder for a baseball bat. It is the only thing to leave me stranded in a volvo, and is one of the reasons I am not a fan of the 700 series cars. It exists basically because machining gears is MUCH more time intensive than slotting a cam...and because you can charge someone an obscene $50+ for a cap and rotor...probably more at the dealer. It won't leave you stranded on an LH2.4 car (unless it leaks enough to mess up the wiring on the crank angle sensor..seen that too), but I prefer to pay $5 for a cap and rotor and 30 seconds to change it instead of $50 and 10 minutes...or more if the seals need changing in the dist.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:15 pm 
Bone stock

Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:54 pm
Posts: 24
Location: Calgary
How can I attach the center wire from the 240 cap to the ignition coil on my 740? the coil is on the other side of the car and the wire ends are different. Perhaps if I could find a long piece of silicone/copper wire and some ends I could make a custom one. Maybe the coil on the 240 will fit mine and I will just go hunt down a longer wire.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:54 pm 
Strapping on extra booster rockets

Joined: Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:46 pm
Posts: 360
Location: B-Ham WA/Portland, OR USA
BGPatterson wrote:
How can I attach the center wire from the 240 cap to the ignition coil on my 740? the coil is on the other side of the car and the wire ends are different. Perhaps if I could find a long piece of silicone/copper wire and some ends I could make a custom one. Maybe the coil on the 240 will fit mine and I will just go hunt down a longer wire.


240 coil + 80 and older 240 coil wire.


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