ok, so now onto the a-pods.

heres a view of the larger pods fiberglassed.



to start remove the a-covers and determine where your tweeters will sit, and at what angle. i have mine shooting straight across just over the dash. find the point where the tweet will sit and mark it. now cut out 4ish inches to either side of the mark (see pic) we will fiberglass and bondo this back on later, im doing this to avoid working with the awkward angles of parts of the pillar as well as fitament issues as well.

trace the size of your tweeter, cut it out of stiff cardboard. cut toothpicks to length (like for out speaker rings) and glue them on so they support our ring at the right angle. we will holesaw this out later.






next stretch fleece over this form, not too tightly, cause our form is not as durable as wood, also make sure the left and right are a similar shape. glue this down with hot glue.








now saturate it with fiberglass resin. with the correct diameter holesaw, cut out the circle for the tweeter, it should fit snugly so that it wont require glue or screwing in.



ill go take some pics of how i put it back onto the pod. more later

pics are here, more on request...

< ok, so i ran into a problem,

one of the repairs i made slipped before setting and has allowed the setting resin on the cloth to warp the panel, so now it wont fit back on,







not to worry... Amputate!!



i cut it right behind the wood at the beginning of the map pocket, id repair this with a new pocket, but i think i wont now, we will see how much i miss the pocket before i do anything.


ok, so for this next part i totally neglected to take photos, but its pretty much autobody refinishing from here, sanding, bondo, and if you are covering with fabric (like me) you can stop here, if your painting you have to carry on with the sanding, spot filler, sanding, primer, sanding, paint etc..


the bondo







the fabric,

i chose to use a leathery pleather, just to warn you that if you cover with faberic, that you want to choose something with some stretch and give to make your life easier, mine is full of rinkles, and i should have tried something else to make it look better, but it turned out satisfactory for how hard it was.

to stretch fabric use spray adhesive and your hot glue gun, spray a light coat of glue over the form, make sure you are fully trimmed up before doing this, and all bondo is sanded flat so you dont have bumps under your fabric!

next lay your fabric over the form, GENTLY stretching it to conform over the shape, if your using something stiff like i was, use more of a reefing motion (this creates torsion in the pattern, but torsion is better than wrinkles, although this causes the fabric to also lift off the form in places, something we dont want), snugly secure it to the back edge with the glue gun and trim all the excess.






i chose to install a speaker terminal in the back to make removing these easier, you can get these at any radio shack for about 5 bucks, i used a hole saw and hot glued them in place.



before installing the speaker, i gave the inside of the pod a good coat of dynamat to ensure complete sound deadening and increased spl. i didnt take a pic of this but its pretty self explanitory


the finished product!






ill post back more when i start on the sub box and amp rack, just waiting for my sub to arrive in the mail and get a deck...

Cool - this tread is giving me some new ideas for inside stuff. Fleece and fiberglass resin, the mind boggles.

if the a-pillar pods fail for sound, some guage pods will be in the works. i need places for all the guages a +t requires...

They look really freakin' sharp. Try heating the vinyl with a heat gun or hair dryer next time - it stretches way easier.

check, i thought of this after.... DOH! o well, i pleated them the best i could, i think the turned out decent, now for the big test... the sound.