I have a 25mm front bar,and a set of KYB struts and shocks,only have a couple thousand k's on them, can be had for reasonable ..........that is if you need them......also I am in edmonton.

^ Thanks. I'll keep that in mind.

Update: Over the weekend I purged the interior of all the broken and cracked trim (Except the dash). I got all the power windows working... as I suspected, three of the windows were just switch issues, and the drivers rear door needed a new window motor. Pulled the timing cover, belt looks very good so I don't think I'm going to change that, & pulled the water pump, now waiting for the replacement to come in. The transmission is leaking out of the transmission cooler lines, so hopefully that'll be an easy fix. Blower fan doesn't apprear to make any noise, but the switch is hooked up wrong I think because the fan works opposite how it's supposed to. The door/headlight/ seatbelt buzzer stays on all the time when the key is in the ignition. No engine oil leaks at all which is a nice suprise.

As soon as I get the front of the engine back together I'm going to try & assess the condition of the turbo. Anyone got any tips ? This is my first shot at diagnosing/ repairing a turbo problem.

Just pull off the intake hose on the turbo, see how much oil is in there and in the intercooler, and try and wiggle the compressor with your fingers. a TINY bit of movement side to side is ok (try pushing it to the side and turning it, listed for blade contact with the housing) and NO movement front to back is acceptable.
And if you need parts, PM me, I can get pretty competitive prices.

Quick update: Changed the water pump and gave the car an oil change. Also stripped the interior of all busted & ratty components.

I'm wondering if the screeching noise from the turbo wasn't just it being started after sitting for so long & not having oil to it, as I've been reading up on turbo installs & the start-up procedure indicates the need to prime the turbo by turning the car over a few times with the coil wire off. THe turbo is not making any noise anymore but there still appears to be an abundance of oil at the intake. I will pull the intake this weekend to get a better idea what's going on.

Big score for me yesterday.. stopped by the shop to ask my Volvo guy about tan interior parts... His yard "push car" is a condemned '84 244GL with tires strapped to the front bumper, the car has nearly mint cloth seats, which he's agareed to trade me for the ratched up leather ones.

If you're interested, I have a 1984 B23FT engine out of a parts car - engine with Turbo, no wiring or hoses (it had a fuel line rupture on Highway 2). It's your for a song (you gotta take the whole engine). Located in Cochrane, just west of Calgary. Drop me a line if you are
horizontallyopposed (at) telusplanet (dot) net

-Keith

Back working on the 244T, and I've run into a new issue for me.

I did not seat the water pump correctly and it leaked, so the other day I pulled it back apart and got a new seal. Re-installing the pump, it appears that I have spun one of the studs in the engine block. I did only torque the nut to spec, I am suprised that I managed to spin the stud with such little effort.

Now what ? Time to break out the tap & die set ? I don't even know how I'm going to get the stud out of there, or what to replace it with.

(sorry, I'd usually pose these questions over @ Brickboard, but figured there's plenty of smart people 'round here who might enjoy answering stupid questions!)

Thx,

Chris.

Sounds like the stud spinning in the block? If so then you have damaged the threads in the block - time for a helicoil. Extracting the stud shouldn't be a problem as there isn't much holding it on. I usually grasp the end with a pair of vice grips and pull and turn it out. It should come out. If not you can always put a nut on the end and pull it out.

^ Yup that's exactly it. Thats for the tips, I will give it a go this weekend.