ah, my logic was the b21 pump was brand new, and i know it flows enough for the turbo/whole shebang.

sweet/ will post pics later. Dale, it seems as if you mounted your motor a little further forwards than usual? any reason why?

i'm 95% certian i'll be able to avoid having to channel out the front xmember for a radiator/IC. though, that's yet to be seen for sure.

The motor is mounted exactly where the stock tranny mount and M41 puts it...

Okay, that makes sense!

This will be about 2" further back than with the other setup. I'll post pics in a few hours.

Well, I'm eating my words right now. It'll fit if I want to use a pusher fan.... Otherwise nay!

Motor mounts are jigged up. Gonna box them in now. What a pita to get aligned in the engine bay.

all done, absolutely minimal clearance to the brake pressure sender. It WILL fit the b21f intake with some fiddling. the ford 60 trim compresser housing will clear on a 90+ though it won't bolt on once the motor is in the bay. gotta do the line into the oil pan, and should be getting close to finishing what i had wanted to tomorrow.

Hey Eric,

Looks like some good progress there. Could you do me a favour and box those brackets in. They don't have much strength in sheer - tension/compression looks fine. I'm still worried about the welds - are you seated and in a comfortable position when you weld? Not trying to be an a$$ - just trying to help.

Craig

yeah. gonna put some 1.5" wide plate across to give it the fore-aft stiffness and a gusset where i've got spare room on the backside. I just have to mark out where i need to notch them for the alternator brackets/stuff and make sure i can get the bolts in first.

these were odd shaped brackets, and welding outside, i had to grind a few welds out from when my shielding gas was gone with the wind, otherwise good, looks a little sloppy, but plenty hot and plenty strong.


few more pics because i couldn't resist...

oil drain is welded in now -- a tad overkill, had some trouble getting the welds completely waterproof with such thin sheet metal, so ran some small beads around and then cranked up the heat and made it solid, but large. Motor is back out, mounts are off to be boxed up at a later date.

the rain has killed any chance of my finishing the floor today or make it to the junkyard.

I just wanted to say: I love this thread. I'm about to start on a 1966 122S so it's fun to watch you. I think I'll start a thead when I get going on it, which should be in a couple of weeks. Craig got me going on welding sheet metal, and after my floors come in the mail and I practice enough to feel somewhat consistent I'll put those in. Then the plan is to drive the car while I work on it.

sweet, high pressure spring is here, new oil seals.

as well, jig finally shipped out today, opted for a bigger bar and a few more pucks for other rear ends, so total cost shipped was 450$ USD. It'll be here by next next monday.

looking at a painless style harness for the wiring since the stock stuff is pretty mangled from all the previous owners.

one thing i realized, is i'm going to need either an lh2.4 flywheel, or to use MS. not a problem with MS, but i was hoping to use this lh2.4 system i've got handy.

Anyone know if poly rag joints are available for the steering column anywhere?

Yup...they're a VW part. Craig can fill in the details...

IPD carries them for $6 or you can pick one up at your local VW place for around the same cash. They work great.

decided to go with a stock rag joint after seeing multiple failures on the poly ones online :S

trying to figure out what clutch/pp/flywheel i want to go with here. it's a tough call though. I may cheap out and use the flywheel/pp i have now and MS it, which would be an adapter from Dale for $125, which is probably about the same cost as an lh2.4 flywheel w/o surfacing, but then add in the cost of the PP, and i'd be really bumping it up, the used one is good, and held fairly well. A new clutch is needed regardless for the tranny, as well as a new t/o bearing/pilot bearing/input bearing/race for the t5....

The other question, is do i want to use these 9" wide mustang rims that i have, they WILL fit on the back, albeit not easily, i'd need 54-55" (~400$ in custom axled, but i do get a lot stronger setup) and have a very tight clearance. But, if i can't fit as wide on the front, i'd may as well not do it. Does anyone know what the size limits are for wheels on the front? I'm probably still going to be better off spending that 400$ on 7-8" wide high offset honda or nissan rims, and hopefully some cheap decent used rubber and use the 28spline ranger axle/aerostar or crown vic setup. I can always upgrade it later (and i don't have enough power to REALLY warrant the big rims on the back, it'd just be for autox since i'm automatically in a super-high class with this thing already)

215/45/17 on 17X8" wheels with a net offset of 20 will rub at full lock on the swaybar. There is room to move out but at the cost of upsetting the stock scrub radius. Not sure why one would need a wider tire on the front anyway...

hmm, i'd be curious to see what kind of scrub these cars have stock. i'd bet it's fairly high and positive already...


that being said, some more static camber could negate the effect of a larger scrub radius... right?

eh, i'll see what works before i attempt to redesign what probably needs not to be redesigned.

The one benefit is steering should be pretty light, even with that large of rims....