For sure, single pipes is on the list but it's down a ways...

Uh...hello...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-B20-Intak ... 4614b0ccf5

Interesting that you should post that as I was looking at my SU's and wondering if I am under carb'd for the motor? I am completely clueless on this stuff, but from what I have gathered I have a pair of HS4's (the bore is 1.5"). Don't know what I have for needles, and no idea how that all works yet and for matching to my engine.

From the listing he took a question on mounting in a 122 engine bay and didn't think it would fit. I guess like the exhaust tips this would be down on my to do list, but if this was a deal worth pursuing to install some day down the road I'm always interested.

Very nice car Jim! Definitely couldn't build it for even close to what it was listed at.

Rabin

Congratulations! Another classic Volvo goes to a good home. A very nice ride for sure.

Thanks Rabin. My thoughts exactly when I saw the ad go up, basically everything I wanted with a bit of fine tuning left.



Thanks blackdog, we're getting quite the collection of 122's here. Looking forward to your progress and seeing the car in person some day.

Well, it's only been just shy of a year so thought I would post an update. Went through the brakes rebuilding the calipers which were seized and new greenstuff pads. The rotors were OK so I just deglazed them with a roloc disc. The rears were good requiring one new adjuster and a parking brake cable, the drums came off without any drama which was a bonus. A new MC and a complete flush/bleed with Super Blue and the brakes were done.

Not so good was the one frozen lug nut in the rear which required the Coburn treatment narrowly avoiding the destruction of a near new Panasport. A little adjustment to the steering box, and more than a few attempts to get the horn button/contacts right and it was ready for inspection. Passed inspection with flying colors and it's finally registered and on the road. Had the inspection done at Inspectacar who were great in helping navigate the gooberment to get the car registered properly as a 66 as it was imported from the US as a 65. Took the car to Waterton last Sunday and it ran great. Turns out there was a car show in town so we headed over to look at cars, might have to give it a whirl next year as predictably there were no Volvo's and few euro's in attendance.

I'm going to try and update this a little more frequently in the future. Next on the list will be gutting the interior and installing Dynamat and a carpet set before I go deaf. Pulling the remnants of the A/C system and looking for a proper center console will fix the shifter slamming on 1&3 shifts and finger pinching on 2&4 shifts.

Major thanks to Craig for his assistance, would not be posting this now if not for his help along the way.

No problemo - glad to have another one on the road and being loved.

Been driving and enjoying the car lately after Craig did a major off the car carb cleaning and had a strange incident last weekend. Went for a Sunday cruise following the route we have used when we last cruised as a group. Stopped a couple of times along the way finishing up at Costco to pickup a few things on the way home. Came out to the car turned the key and absolutely nothing, not a sound. Have never had an issue with starting or charging before.

Looked around under the hood and saw nothing obvious so called for a tow. While waiting we grabbed a couple of tools at Wally world as I had nothing with me, I know... The PO had installed one of those battery isolators and when I was wiggling and checking things under the hood it broke off in my hand. I though great just a grounding issue, should be good to go once I hook the ground strap back up sans the isolator thingy. Should also note that the lights were nice and bright so no issue with the battery/alternator. Hooked the ground strap up and still nothing, by this time the tow truck arrived so we towed it home.

Once home I checked for voltage and got 12.8v at the battery and 12.55v at the starter. Also tried rapping on the starter a few times with no change. I hooked up my DVOM to ground at the battery and the starter lead to the ignition and turned the key and only got 9.5v? Even though the battery was reading good I hooked up a charger and tried the key and vroom??

Took it to Altra Battery and load tested everything and did 3 consecutive starts, everything looks fine and the car continues to restart. I'm kinda stumped at this point, it seems like more than a coincidence that the battery isolator broke off at the same time the starter was dead silent but it should have been good once the ground was hooked up direct??

Also Matt, can I move this thread to the Build section? I'd like to document the changes I hope to get done in the future. I was going to move it but wasn't sure about the process that I don't lose anything. screw up links etc.

Hi Jim,

This is a fairly common occurance with a few cars - google starter relay mod. Essentially the ignition switch wears to the point that it can't transmit the full 12v to the starter on start consistently. (Could be switch, could be resistance in circuit)

Relay mod just uses that wire as the signal wire to swich battery current to the starter via the relay.

That's my guess anyway.

Rabin

Moved

Jim, a pretty common issue is a corroded battery connection. You will get enough through it to light up a few lights or whatnot, but when you turn the key and engage the solenoid, current can't get through and the volts drop so far that the battery looks dead even when it's fine. If you lost a quarter of a volt through the wiring without any draw, guaranteed the connections are bad somewhere.

And I'm not sure a relay is needed to trigger a starter solenoid. If the ignition switch is that worn out, replace it with a new one instead of adding something that doesn't belong.

Matt's right about a relay mod not belonging in a vintage car, but if options are limited paets wise, or you need a temp fix then it might suffice and be easily undone or reversed later.

I ruled out battery connections when you commented how bright the headlights were. With no sound at all the solenoid isn't moving which is why I suspected the start circuit.

A good test might be to simply jump 12V direct to the spade when it acts up to ensure it really is just lack of current is the issue.

Rabin

I caught that too, but in the situations I've encountered I've had acceptable (not GREAT, but acceptable) performance from heaters, wipers, headlights, etc., until the starting circuit is engaged. The 15-20 amps drawn by any of that other stuff gets through the bad connection alright, the 2-300 amps drawn by the starter does not and creates a huge drop in system voltage, in effect shutting everything off as though the battery was dead.

It just occurred to me that I don't know if the ignition switch for the 122 is separable from the coil... I'm guessing not in which your point of adding a relay is much more attractive.

Just a thought...that ground interrupter was screwed when I last looked at it. It had been hot and melted the cap. So get a proper ground hooked up *looks like you did that*, then you get Altra to make you a proper positive to get to the starter of 0/2 welding wire. There is no way to hook up anything to the coil/key as it's armoured for a reason. I've also got a crimp tool for welding cables/battery, but Altra does it for free basically. Check the rest of the harness grounds, they are usually corroded and sketchy.

Thanks guys, good stuff there. I'll buff the neg terminal to say I did but it really does look clean, when I hooked it up direct in the parking lot I thought I was golden... Will also go over the ground straps and clean the starter connections as well. It sure is looking like a very intermittent issue as I took it to SweetGrass and back yesterday without issue.