I am not sure if I should call this a true "build thread" or not, since I am not sure how often I will be posting updates. But, I wanted to get some information out on my 131 2-door I picked up from Ontario in July.
It was originally an automatic, converted to a M41 5-speed with electric O/D by a PO.
As for the outside, you may be able to see some color differences. It has had some body work done, but appears pretty solid. Compression was pretty good across all four, but that was with wet cylinders... once I get some more miles on it, I hope to do a better test.
I ordered the usual iPD parts... plugs, wires, etc. I got my big parts order in to Olof for the major bits. Rhys Kent out of Victoria rebuilt the carbs for me, and they respond worlds better than before. Overall, the car runs and rides nicely.
After I first got it, I noticed a heavy clunk from the left front while riding over bumps. I immediately thought "broken spring". But once I had the wheels off and an inspection done, I discovered a 1/2 inch combo wrench in the spring. Easy fix.
As well, when I changed the brake master cylinder, when I was removing the pedal from the cylinder connection, I found no lockpin holding the main pedal pin in place. THAT scared me. It could have fallen out at any time and I would have had quite the adventure. I have a picture of the pedal assembly to post here too, I can see the broken spring that is causing its weak action.
I have some pictures of the seats out and the floorpans exposed. Taking those seats out was a breeze. The verdict? Overall, not too bad at all. The usual drivers side damage is worse than the passenger, but as far as I can tell, there's no perforation. Lots of undercoat on the bottom side no doubt helped things. I am not sure whether to take a wire wheel, use rust remover or converter, then paint with POR-15 or similar.

Once I figure out the pictures, I'll get them on here so they're not massively huge.

P.S. Thanks to Rabin (bean)! He helped me out a lot.

Here's the busted pedal spring and whatnot. Definitely need to get this fixed.

That's a pretty good looking car! Congrats.

I concur, very nice!!

Current work so far...
- installed the Swem starter button kit, and it works just fine. No more bendy keys for me.
- I took the foil off a regular length 25 amp fuse and gently bent it around the short fuse body, then reinstalled it in the fuse box, along with three other 8 amp fuses. Took the car for a nice 15 minute ride around my neighborhood (didn't want to go too far away from home base), and everything worked just fine. The car had one 8, and 2 16 amp fuses in it before. I thought I would try out the 8's and see if anything went awry. Mind you, I didn't try the wipers, which I think blew the fuse in the first place. I will eventually modify the fuse box's short tab by bending it out to fit the larger fuse in.

I have to get under the dash before the real cold hits and take the wiper assembly apart to determine how good or bad everything is. I am thinking the wiper arm assemblies are binding, or there is something in the motor causing it to draw more current than need be. The Swem site has procedures on how to do this. I am finding it's a good auxiliary source of info.

Oh, and after my test ride, and using the heater to get a little warmer, found out that I have a coolant leak from the heater box. I am thinking I have a bad core. I don't suspect the heater control valve at this point, but I will stop at my local NAPA store to inquire about the Balkmap 66-1000 kit for the valve. If the HCV is indeed bad, I would rather try to repair it with a $15 kit than a new $180 part.

I have a few heater cores that I think will fit your car.

Thank you! Once I get the heater assembly apart and verify what the scoop is, I hope to contact you.

Well, first big screwup... I ordered the wrong Simons exhaust kit from Olof. I got the single tube instead of the double tube. Doh.
Hopefully I can use my existing double tube with the system. I'll have to take it off, get it to a sandblaster and paint it up nice. If not, a muffler shop should be able to fit it better.
But on the upside, the kit looks like it is of good quality and lots of good reviews on the 'net.

I was planning to take off the automatic steering column housing off my car and fit the proper housing that I got off of ebay, that has holes for the turn stalk and O/D. But when I got the steering wheel and housing off, there was a bracket that I didn't recognize. Needless to say, the 'new' housing would not fit. I have looked through the service manuals etc., and I can't seem to find out what this bracket is for.



Are there different steering columns, or different collars on the column, between an auto and a standard driven car? This car used to be an auto, but was 'converted' to a standard by the P/O. Pic is attached.

As well, I tried fitting my new pedals today that I got from Matt, and the yokes off the brake and clutch cylinders are too small to fit around the steel. Time to do more parts hunting. But on the good side, the brake spring worked a treat. What wonders commence when your brake pedal functions as it should. I got it fired up as well and took it for a spin around the neighborhood. I am looking forward to a lot more driving and fiddling this summer.

David

That's strange the pedals wouldn't fit. My '67 has the same pedals as the ones I sent you, I'm sure of it. Looking at your pictures I see that the pedal arms are solid plate steel though and I think the ones I sent you were tubular? Looking at your dash I also see that your cluster says "BENSIN" so I'm guessing that there are some other European parts on it. I think that bracket is for a column shifter, since it was an automatic before you got it, and is probably also why your pedals look different.

I'm sure that they bracket relates to the former shifter...and the OD switch mounts to the plastic cover, not to the column. The rest looks about right. I would just fabricate the yokes. They are just bent pieces of 1/8" steel with a pin holding them in place. Weld a nut on the back to thread into the MC and you're done.

Thanks for the replies, guys!

Matt, the pedals fit just fine, but the old pedals are definitely the automatic version. The yokes are the main thing that are the barrier at the moment. That should get cleared up pretty quickly though. Your pedals are certainly meatier than the ones I have now, and I am looking forward to using them. It was interesting trying to get them fitted, I had to have my wife help me out. A bit of an awkward contortion for a while there, but I am excited.

Craig, I'll have to figure something out about that bracket on the column eventually. It looks like a removable part based on the diagrams I have seen. The cover is more esthetic, but it would have been nice to cross that off the list.

And, my heater control valve is shot. I got coolant leaking into the passenger floorboard continuously. I have the seals coming from the US, I just might bypass the valve for now so I can drive the car without constant loss of coolant.

David

The replacement brake pedals are fitted, and they look great. The brake pedal is a bit close to the gas pedal, but I'll check to see if there is some adjustment for the accelerator.

I started working on the coolant leak as well.... I don't want to cut the capillary tube for the heater control valve, so the entire heater assembly will come out. It looks pretty straightforward, and this'll give me a chance to get the core pressure tested at a local shop, and get the whole works cleaned up. The gasket for the diverter flap has gone hard and crusty, I think I will get some door gasket foam material to replace that when it's ready to go back in. I can then tear into the valve to replace the rubber seal. I picked up a couple replacement seals from Hi Performance Auto Service, I'll see how they work out. If nothing else, it's a learning opportunity.

Heater box is out! The process was actually straightforward. Everything looks okay, I don't see any staining inside the heater box. There's the typical rusty dust at the bottom of the heater box, but no perforation. Heater core looks pretty good too, not a lot of corrosion present and the fins look decent. Here's some pics.