Stand up guy...well what can we say. The price of getting your car going is to do the R&D work for him. If he was a real business man, he'd be cutting you a cheque for the price of the harness and give an apology for not doing his homework. I do judge people by how they roll when these things happen.

Yeah, I would be happy if he gave me something in return. There's a lot more wrong with this harness than I expected, especially in terms of wire length etc. Fortunately he's been helpful in providing advice and returning my emails, so that's good. We'll see...maybe he'll come through still.

Got a lot more done yesterday. Started deleting wiring under the dash that I don't need. There's a lot of K-jet crap in there I don't need now. I'm a little terrified of doing something wrong, but the car did run without this stuff plugged in, so I'm hoping I'm OK. I ended up tracing a lot of stuff through the driver's firewall, so I decided to go full-bore, and started pulling a bunch of wiring out from the engine bay too. It's going to be A LOT tidier, especially near the battery, so that's good. I'm sending some stuff to Alberta Plating this week too, to get a bunch of stuff yellow zinc coated, which will make the engine bay more shiny.

Couple questions:

1. Do I need the ballast resistor? I'm guessing not
2. There is a tiny silver relay on the panel on the driver's side fender, next to the headlight relay and junction box. I have no idea what it does and can't seem to find any info on it. I'm guessing its something K-jet related. Any ideas?

Pretty excited right now. And it sounds like there's a brake upgrade coming too!

Balast resistor is headed for the trash. It's not used or needed. Unplug that relay and see what stops functioning. It's not running the lights or horns or anything is it? Check and then pull if not needed.

Lights are on the big relay next to it. Horn doesn't have its own relay. Did some more tracing, and I believe its the Lambda relay. Gets power from the junction box, and then runs to the K-jet fuel relay and the Lambda control unit. More tracing tonight will confirm. Good to know I don't need the ballast. Thanks.

Yup. That relay had continuity with pin 8 on the K-jet computer thingy. So I ditched it.

As of tonight, all K-jet wiring, and anything else I wasn't using, has been evicted from the engine bay, as well as the passenger side dash. Getting the wires through the driver's firewall was a massive pain. That grommet is tight, but its done now. Started rebuilding the chassis harness using some way overbuilt multi-layer shrink wrap I got at an electrical store. It's amazing how much tidier things look already. Now on to the driver's dash and footwell. That could get interesting. It's all pulled apart already, so I just need to trace and remove the wiring I pulled from the engine bay as well as the passenger footwell.

Pulled apart the engine harness to get more wire for the MAF, re-routed the O2 sensor wires then re-taped it all, and re-crimped the passenger signal wires and properly shrink wrapped them. Also found a grommet/plug for the bigger A/C hole on the passenger firewall. And a bunch of hardware is getting dropped off tomorrow for yellow zinc plating. Bling!

Well, another busy weekend of work.

For reference, here is the under dash on the passenger side I finished a while back. I've got the factory 240 position for the EZK box, which involved pulling a later model cars black removable panel, as the mounting point is part of the panel. The LH box is mounted using a modified 740 bracket in about the same spot as the K-Jet box would have sat. I eliminated my passenger crotch cooler to do this, but it looks relatively factory, which is the goal. Also of note is the washer hose coming through the firewall. I am running a late model factory line from the right butt cheek reservoir of an early car. This allows me to eliminate the engine compartment washer reservoir.



Wiring on the driver's side at present.



While I'm waiting for the zinc plating to return, I was able to locate some new yellow zinc coated fasteners for the engine bay locally. Been driving everywhere this week looking for good hardware. Kind of a fluke, but the one automotive store here locally has one drawer in the back full of these metric bolts with integral washers. Score! Been looking for something like this for a while. I went through most of the engine bay now replacing fasteners.



Got most of the engine bracketry blasted Thursday night.



And Friday Kiwi Iron was able to get them all powdered during the day. Score!



Got the upper firewall cleaned up finally. I removed the foam a while ago, but hadn't cleaned the remnants of it off. Spent a good chunk of Saturday cleaning that area as well as the hinges and under the strut towers. Looks much better. Began to mount all the powdered stuff with newer hardware.



Got my coil mounted with fresh hardware on my newly powdered bracket. It's been modified to hold the power stage too.



Very happy with how this area is looking now. Spent most of today cleaning and mounting things. Used as much yellow zinc hardware as I could find, and mounted things cleanly. Even pulled a Coburn, and polished the headlight relay just cus.



Once the plating comes back, I'll finish tidying up the engine bay. But now its on to finishing the wiring on the driver's side, and then the driver's footwell.

NICE work Greg...btw Kiwi will blast that stuff for you.

Thanks! Yes, I found that out when I phoned. Next time that's what I'll do, but a kind guy (who is stalking this thread....) let me use his cabinet, and it got the stuff in and out the door in a day, as opposed to 3 or 4, which is what they offered before they found out it was blasted. Not sure how much more it would cost if they blasted....they charged me $50 for this.

Looking REALLY sharp, Greg! Gotta get that driver side wiring under control, but holy damn you're cleaning that car up!

Thanks Matt! Feels good to be cleaning things up this well. Dash wiring is next. Should take some time, but I'm going to try to do it as cleanly and simply as possible.

Craig, for reference:



Post #4 here:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=200546

"When I got my car with the B230FT already installed, whomever did it carefully melted and reshaped the corner of the 940 airbox and installed it in the proper spot in the 240 engine bay. They also had to cut, rotate, and re-plastic-weld the neck on the windshield washer reservoir, and used a smaller coolant expansion tank. Net result was a very convincing, totally stock and OEM look."

Edit: Another post.
"7/9-box need to be chopped just above inlet tubes and one have to fabricate new bottomplate and inlet tube."

I'm gonna pull out a 740 box again to figure out how much we'd have to modify it to fit. If some guy can do it WITHOUT the recess in the floor we cut, as well as keeping the washer reservoir, I don't see why we can't. I wish I could find the pic of whatshisface's car who used to be on the forum here....was selling a minty white 245 with LH swap. I could have sworn he used a 740 airbox too.

We can just hack it to fit then make a fiberglass box. Easy.

Yeah, that would work. Even if we have to cut a corner off, and glass that part in, that would be fine. I'm curious about chopping it above the inlet to lower the whole box. That would likely get us the clearance from the intercooler piping.

Fairly productive night. Got a crapload of wiring removed from under the dash. The pile of wiring on the floor is growing. Most of it is related to K-jet, but I also pulled the door/key in ignition buzzer and associated wiring. Pulled all of the sheathing off the driver's side harness in preparation for shrink wrap. I'm also running in the wiring for the ambient temp sensor off the front bumper, so that will get wrapped at the same time.

Well, the yellow zinc is back from Alberta Plating. Now I'm no expert, and perhaps my expectations were too high, but to me this doesn't look very good.



The rainbow effect is to be expected, but the dark black spots, particularly on the hood latch, really don't look right to me. Especially when you consider the photo on their website:



At the very least, the hood latch will be going back to get rid of the blackness. The rest are tolerable....just not very shiny, and quite dark. And they lost one bolt. Sigh.

The rest of the build is going excellent. Been busy almost every night. The engine wiring is now complete. I cleaned up the ambient temp sender, and wired it up with the rest of the chassis harness. New shrink wrap went on on the driver's side, and the firewall grommet is now in place again...much easier this time than the last with all the extra wiring removed. It's looking much much tidier.

Looking good Greg - they should redo that upper catch for sure. I'm not sure that it's all that bad given what it is. The originals may be a chromate or something other than just yellow zinc. I've seen a lot of colour variation in grade 8 bolts over the years. The only other option is to have them coated...but that means sending them to Calgary.