Since a few of us have done this and a few are in the process...i need some help, very noob to manual tranny's

i present to you all "wtf am i looking at"

the center console trim piece



pedal box okay...



wtf is that...

brown plug above the brake pedal?
black plug thing in front of the computer?
computer used for?




proper name??? (slave cylinder?)



i assume the actuator part goes to the tranny and the metal brake line looing piece goes to this...



master cylinder, where does it go? totally out to lunch here or...?

who's this funny looking character? where does he go?



extra shifter...this one the reverse lock out works, so i will prob use it...Dale can we do the whole short shifter now while it's out of the car?



crossmember soaking in varsol...pretty self explanatory...



a metal plate...i assume for the top of the shifter...almost in car i guess



any help appreciated...i am going to start to rip out the auto today

ciao

Brown thing above brake pedal is... you guessed it... the brake pedal switch. Turns on your brake lights.

Thing on the computer thingie - which is the ignition computer and you should probably use your old one - is the overboost protection switch, which you also already have.

Next picture is certainly the slave cylinder. The other part is the master cylinder, which gets it's fluid from that extra port on the brake master cylinder reservoir. You don't need to replace the whole brake MC, just the reservoir if your current one doesn't have a nipple on the side that's capped off. The "funny looking character" is the clutch master cylinder - bolts right beside the brake master cylinder, using a couple holes in the firewall, undoubtably uncovered by the pedal cluster.

Short throw shifter can be done at any time - now or after the swap. It's tougher to do afterwards...

Metal plate is the reinforcement plate for the shifter boot.

still shady on these workings...let me know if i am right

the brake fluid IS THE hydraulic fluid used for the clutch (instead of the cable design)

the rubber hose from the nipple on the reservoir goes to the slave cylinder metal brake line type part

clutch master cylindfer...still have no clue

Dale short shifter!!!...also i have no shift knob anywhere so i will be wiring the OD to a spot right in the center console there, on that plastic "switch location" deal

(also OT Dale...one night when you are working on the 122 lets chat about he motor mounts...see if i can think something thru with you as how to make them work)

Matt does your 760 have a manual? can i just look at it and take some pics one night, figure out where everythign goes

other than that tonight i too kthe driveshaft(s) out, the shifter linkage was detached and the shifter assembly pulled out of the car...and the tranny fluid drained

ciao

No, the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder connect using that brake line thingie. The clutch master cylinder gets fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir using that plastic nipple on the clutch master cylinder body.

My 760 still has an automatic for now. However, the pedals I pulled for my car are for a cable clutch application. I wonder what Tyler pulled that from?

convert to cable clutch, no messy 'draulics yo.

I'd stay cable... simply because I have no clue what im doing when it comes to hydraulics and making them work right, I suppose they are simple enough, but to me ... not as simple as a cable moving inside another cable

- R

why try to find the cable stuff when i have a hyraulic set up here already?

ciao

Raz says: Do what you want, but cable is easier to set up

How is the cable easier to set up? All the parts are already here! One or two hydraulic fittings and you never have to worry about breaking a clutch cable again.

I dunno dude.. I dont like fluids, dont get me wrong, hydralic clutches are nice and all ... Just don't like em - matter of preference?

I dont like the goo they feel like in -30, I dont like when they leak, I dont like how expensive they are to replace when the cylinders fail (and I can drive a car with a broken clutch cable just fine)

Meh Same reason I like a manual not, not the evil fluid 'driven' automagic ... I dunno, what can I say? I don't even like Soquids... Just Solids ... OK, i'm being silly.

CABLE CLUTCH BISH! <-- me.

- R

i am stuck

how the F do i get these bolts out...i either can't get a wrench or socket around these, or if i can there isnt room to move it, you'll see in the pics...the upper dipstick bolt i can't budge, hit it with the impact gun for 2 mins straight and nothing

HELP!







ciao

maybe you just need a big breaker bar....more torque then an impact

vza, i've got a few days off, if you need help unbolting things, call me.

- R

i'll try my break bar today on the upper one

raz maybe i'll holla later

ciao

Hope you gots 1/2" drive stuff. You'll snap a 3/8" drive off pretty quickly with a breaker bar...

yeah all i have been using is 1/2" stuff

going back out to hack at her...maybe the grinder will help on the one with the plate for the tranny cooler lines

ciao