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 Post subject: ....looking at a 98 s70 GLT
PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:30 pm 
Canadian Tire Bolt ons
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Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 3:46 pm
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Location: Calgary
Hi ,

I have been a member here since Feb. 17th and I am awaiting tonight to hear if a deal will go down for a 98 s70 GLT.

What are things that I should look for? What are some commonalities of these cars once they go > 160,000 km. In particular, what are some signs of a weak motor?

Any other information is appreciated

Thanks,
Darcy


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:33 pm 
granny_star
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:12 pm
Posts: 1601
Location: Calgary
just a warning, I believe its around 220k...the ac's go in a big way. Expensive fix. but good god, for a 98 that's low milage....
(either that or mine just has bloody high milage)

the advice i can give you about the motor though is listen and feel. If she feels timid or sounds like ass....watch yourself. If she gives you the slightest off feeling, be careful.

160,000 km was a longass time ago on my 98, i'd have to look at the maintenence records...although I think when we got her she was already at 180,000 km someodd.

(but just to give you an idea how long these engines can purr...mine's got just shy of 285,000 km on her)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:42 pm 
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pro_star..you have a pm


Also, do these engine have timing belts? what is their change frequency?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:51 pm 
Hiring a japanese chess champion as ECU

Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:28 pm
Posts: 487
Hm, I think you can check the timing belt pretty simply on that car. I suggest doing it. It should be 2 tabs to pull back and you can inspect. Otherwise its a 12mm socket and one bolt in the center of the cover to inspect.

Evaporators go on them (and 850s) but definatly more common on 850s. I believe it to be more age Dependant than mileage.

When you first start the car, watch the climate control unit. If the lights flash, it has codes in the Climate Control system.

Make sure the AC works.

If you can, I'd have a shop check it over... There is only so much typing my fingers can do

(I inspect every used car that comes through the Volvo dealer here)

Jordan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:58 pm 
granny_star
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Location: Calgary
timing belt essentially gets done every 100,000 km. make sure to see the seller's maintenence records on the car to see what has been done lately so you can get an idea of what could potentially need to be done


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:31 pm 
I can fix the world
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Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2005 12:18 pm
Posts: 1461
Location: Calgary
Weeeeeeeeee.

Upper motor mounts are common, front sway bar endlinks are common, since it is pre 99 then timing belts are done every 112K or if you have a waterpump go out before that then they will generally do one then. Post 99 it is every 168k.

Evaps go as jordan says, rads are in the same awesome spot so be careful of tall parking blocks as you can chew the corner easily and take either out, generally the rad.

The bushing at the firewall likes to make noise when dry, its a 5 minute fix with a pick and some grease.

If you can get service records then awesome, if not you can ask valentine if they have any records on the computer with the VIN number. Just tell them you are buying a used car and would like to see if the timing belt has been done or if regular service has been performed at the dealership.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 7:37 am 
Haha, I just built a W24 Octo-Turbo, now what?!
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:40 pm
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Location: Calgary, Ab
Now wait a minute, Andy:

"Evaps go as jordan says, rads are in the same awesome spot so be careful of tall parking blocks as you can chew the corner easily and take either out, generally the rad. "

The evaporator is inside the car, the condenser is mounted to the rad. Is it the evap that goes or the condenser? Roberta's AC is petering out after a recharge this March, so something's leaking. She hasn't taken it back for an ultraviolet checkup, but if it's just the condenser that commonly goes that's not so bad.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:50 pm 
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I ment the condenser....sorry.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:44 pm 
granny_star
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gasp andy you are SO fired ;)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 8:12 pm 
Hiring a japanese chess champion as ECU

Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:28 pm
Posts: 487
I definatly meant to say Evaporator. Inside the car. Behind the dash.

You can pull the glove box out, then pull out a little black cover (its like 3" big) and poke around in there. Any sign, ever so slight, means its toast. By light I mean black light and some UV glasses.

I find radiators snap where they bolt to the car. Usually on the Left hand side. They can live there for a while before they fail completely.

If it has the "3 disk" changer in the dash, that will probably fail shortly after you buy the car. I haven't seen one last very long. We replace with a single disk.

I suggest, if the links aren't gone, just inject them with some lithium grease.
My mentor bought his S70 with around 30K on it way back in the day. He injected the ball joints, tie rod ends, and the swaybar links, and hasn't had one fail yet, or even show any signs of movement/noise. He has 260K on there now. And this is Winnipeg we are talking about, have you driven our roads?!

Oil pans crack really easy.

Oh and the other day this guy showed up with an 97 850 he just bought with only 99K on it. Well it had a small coolant leak. Pressure test shows POUROUS BLOCK, right below the exhaust manifold.

I've also had a few people come in with "repaired" oil leaks, from the center section of the engine. They tried to silicone over. That doesn't work.

Clean out the PCV right away. Again this is key to avoid having Seals weep/leak and keeping your rear main seal in there. This is probably the single biggest issue with these cars. They plug easy, causing all sorts of leaks. 1.5 hours labour and like 30 dollars in parts, can save alot of heartache.

Anyways....

Jordan


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